Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Restorations and Refurbishments

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #31  
Old 05-26-2012, 03:15 AM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Boat: 1990 Prostar, 351 Windsor
Location: Southeast
Posts: 209
Put another 5 hours of work in this evening. First thing I did was work on removing what was left of the grease fitting on the rudder assembly. Drilled the rust out and chased the thread. Worked without issue. I forgot to take an after pic. I then removed vents and sand blasted them in prep for powder coating.

Before:



After:



I then removed the swim platform and sandblasted the brackets, also to prep for powder coating. I noticed that the platform needs a little work on the underside where it attaches to the brackets. I wonder if a rubber gasket in that place would be a good idea?





I then proceeded to work on the the stern eye rings and the rear tow point. The backing plates of all three of these where rusted. Im surprised that MC didnt use stainless hardware on these items. The stern eye hooks took some finagling to remove as the nuts didnt want to release. Ill probably end up replacing the wood that is glassed in at this location as I poked around with a screw driver and it is completely rotten.

The black is wood in this image:



My first thought was that I needed to replace the hardware entirely because the threads looked trashed. Then I thought, maybe I could save em....well I did. I ended up grinding about an 1/8 inch off each bolt and then proceeded to chase the threads and restore them. I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder to finish the cleanup. Im pretty happy with the result. I'll get stainless backing plates for all three and stainless locking washers and nuts. Should be good as new.

Before:



During:



After:







I didnt get a chance to pull of the rest of the windshield frame or get to the bow eyes. Next time on those two things. Once that is done, the hull will largely be ready to get buffed.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 05-26-2012, 06:48 AM
SkiDog's Avatar
SkiDog SkiDog is offline
MC Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 92 Prostar
Location: South of North
Posts: 7,231
Quote:
Originally Posted by nkorep2 View Post
Put another 5 hours of work in this evening. First thing I did was work on removing what was left of the grease fitting on the rudder assembly. Drilled the rust out and chased the thread. Worked without issue. I forgot to take an after pic. I then removed vents and sand blasted them in prep for powder coating.

Before:



After:



I then removed the swim platform and sandblasted the brackets, also to prep for powder coating. I noticed that the platform needs a little work on the underside where it attaches to the brackets. I wonder if a rubber gasket in that place would be a good idea?





I then proceeded to work on the the stern eye rings and the rear tow point. The backing plates of all three of these where rusted. Im surprised that MC didnt use stainless hardware on these items. The stern eye hooks took some finagling to remove as the nuts didnt want to release. Ill probably end up replacing the wood that is glassed in at this location as I poked around with a screw driver and it is completely rotten.

The black is wood in this image:



My first thought was that I needed to replace the hardware entirely because the threads looked trashed. Then I thought, maybe I could save em....well I did. I ended up grinding about an 1/8 inch off each bolt and then proceeded to chase the threads and restore them. I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder to finish the cleanup. Im pretty happy with the result. I'll get stainless backing plates for all three and stainless locking washers and nuts. Should be good as new.

Before:



During:



After:







I didnt get a chance to pull of the rest of the windshield frame or get to the bow eyes. Next time on those two things. Once that is done, the hull will largely be ready to get buffed.


Buff BEFORE you put it back together. Course you probably already knew that!
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 05-26-2012, 07:27 AM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,363
Quote:
Originally Posted by nkorep2 View Post
Put another 5 hours of work in this evening.
I am completely impressed with your patience and resourcefulness of skills and tools. Now is a great opportunity to reinforce your platform brackets in the transom, if they need attention. Thru-bolts and backing plates are a recommendation unless the 90 model has that type of installation. The older boats have lag screws and leave a lot to be desired in quality of installation and service over the years. I have cut through my floor to access the area to add backing plates and thru-bolts for the brackets.

A great thread and thanks for sharing the work.

.
Attached Images
   
__________________
93 190
.
Don't be a boot licker
.

Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 05-26-2012, 10:56 AM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Boat: 1990 Prostar, 351 Windsor
Location: Southeast
Posts: 209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
I am completely impressed with your patience and resourcefulness of skills and tools. Now is a great opportunity to reinforce your platform brackets in the transom, if they need attention. Thru-bolts and backing plates are a recommendation unless the 90 model has that type of installation. The older boats have lag screws and leave a lot to be desired in quality of installation and service over the years. I have cut through my floor to access the area to add backing plates and thru-bolts for the brackets.

A great thread and thanks for sharing the work.

.
I think mine are the same as yours were. My only question with doing it the way you did is what happens if you want to remove the platform for some reason? Youd have to cut the hole in the floor again.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 06-03-2012, 07:03 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,363
Quote:
Originally Posted by nkorep2 View Post
I think mine are the same as yours were. My only question with doing it the way you did is what happens if you want to remove the platform for some reason? Youd have to cut the hole in the floor again.
I remove the platform from the brackets and leave them hanging. You do have a point about the portability of the install. If I do another one, I'll use removeable brackets that allow the base to stay secured, and remove the platform and the cantilever portion of the bracket.

Cutting that floor is no big deal. Nice thing is that all of that is not visible, so cosmetics are minimal for me.

Another thought is to tack weld the nuts to the plate. Then removal is merely breaking a silicone seal with the thru-bolt.

.
__________________
93 190
.
Don't be a boot licker
.

Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.

Last edited by Cloaked; 06-03-2012 at 07:06 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 09-14-2012, 02:24 PM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Boat: 1990 Prostar, 351 Windsor
Location: Southeast
Posts: 209
Im back to work on the boat! I have a living room full of parts now. My engine block is on an engine stand, ready to be reassembled. Windshield frame and an assortment of other parts are now powder coated.

I got fed up with the rusty nut holding the bow eye ring, so I cut the hole thing off. Ive ordered a new one. Still have to order the 5/16 threaded rod to rebuild the bow lifting assembly.

Ive begun fiberglass work. The stern eye hooks are getting new wood panels and stainless backing plates. Additionally, Ive decided to tackle the soft flooring. I drilled holes in the floor to explore and noticed that the fiberglass has separated from the foam below because of the water. The foam towards the bow seems to be dry, so I decided to simply spray new foam in, and stiffen up the flooring. Then glass the floor. In the stern, once I had holes up front, I stepped on the floor, and heard the slushing of water. So, I decided to cut a 2'x2' hole on the port side initially. Sure enough, there is a lot of water there. So, I removed the foam, dried everything out, sprayed new foam in, and will glass everything back in once the foam is solid. It seems like it will work well.



I also started the repair of the crack where the floor meets the sides. I grinded, filled with filler, and then glass over. I dont expect any issues here anytime soon after this repair.

Here is an image.



Im thinking about another 2-3 days working like today, and I should be done with fiberglass work and can proceed to wet sanding, buffing, interior panels, and then the motor and transmission. Then the upholstery, and trailer. Then go PLAY!
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 09-14-2012, 04:41 PM
mcparadise's Avatar
mcparadise mcparadise is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Boat: 1998 Sportstar 19/305 Chevy Indmar (4160 Carbed)
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 167
True inspiration! Makes me feel my restore is a cake-walk compared to what you grapple with. Lots of great tricks of the trade to learn from here.
PS How do you work so fast!! lol...
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 09-21-2012, 03:14 PM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Boat: 1990 Prostar, 351 Windsor
Location: Southeast
Posts: 209
Got some more work done. Ive ground and filled the front starboard side where the floor meets the wall, and did the same thing on the port side. I glassed the port side, but forgot to take some pics, will do that next time Im working on it. Also, cut out the panel that covers the bilge area in front of the motor box. Used the old rotten one as a template. I also glass in the older battery tray into the new panel. Still have to cut the pylon hole and vent hose holes. But its cool having this part mostly done.







Its 3/4 in marine grade plywood with a coat of 2 part epoxy.
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 09-26-2012, 01:32 PM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Boat: 1990 Prostar, 351 Windsor
Location: Southeast
Posts: 209
Got some work done. Touched up the corners of the battery tray. Glassed the starboard side where the floor meets the wall. Just have one more corner to go with that fix. As Ive done more glassing, Ive gotten better, so Im going to go back and redo the stern Eye hook backing plates. That will possibly be tomorrow. Additionally, I cut another huge whole in my floor, this time on the starboard side in the rear. There was a lot of moisture here, but I think the foam is actuallly not saturated. Only the top inch or so is wet, so I removed that. I'll replace this top layer, and close up the holes. It kinda exciting to see progress. Here's a few images.

Starboard side:


Port side:

Before:


And After:



Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 09-27-2012, 12:29 PM
rjracin240's Avatar
rjracin240 rjracin240 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Boat: Mastercraft ProStar 190 1988 351 Wheezer
Location: Lake Asbury Florida
Posts: 436
Very cool and inspirational to me to get my 88 190 done. Found the same questions regarding the water under the bilge pump on my boat, tried vacuuming it out as best I could. Following along with your repair and removing a layer of foam....what foam did you use to replace it with?
Also interested in your windshield work, when I pulled out my windshield found it very difficult to go back, had to warm the old rubber with a steam gun used for removing tint to make the rubber pliable enough to allow the re-installation of the windshield.

Keep the story coming along with the pictures, very interesting.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:54 PM.