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Old 03-01-2015, 11:26 AM
swilke318 swilke318 is online now
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1986 Interior Project

I started tearing out the interior in the MC yesterday to get it ready to go to the Upholstery shop in a couple weeks. Everything went fairly well for the most part. Ordering some sample carpet pieces this week and need to replace the motor box floor panel (again...). Here are some pics of the progress.








A bunch of the holes where the interior pieces mount to have become stripped as well as the holes in the flooring. I am thinking of filling all of these will marine tex epoxy but not sure if it is worth the trouble. Should I go with a 3M 4200 or 5200 instead? Only thing I am worried about is some of the pieces not lining up exactly how they were and having an even bigger hole once we screw the floor panels and seats back in.

The floor on both sides of the motor aren't exactly flat and have a couple spongy spots if you stand just right and put some pressure there. I think the foam between the stringers might be deteriorating. It doesn't seem like a huge issue and is a much larger project than I want to get into at this point.

Yes, I know the wiring looks horrible but I will be relocating the amp and rewiring all of that nonsense once I get the new carpet in. Anyone have any ideas on how to secure some type of pvc or wire management without drilling more holes into the side gunnels? As you can see there are enough holes in there already.

Any thoughts or comments are greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-01-2015, 11:42 AM
jgraham37128 jgraham37128 is offline
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Now is the time to fix anything you may know go out in a few years. I would do the floor for sure. Last thing you want to do is put it back together and then have to take it back out next year to repair something!
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Old 03-01-2015, 01:24 PM
occva occva is offline
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Where is the floor soft?

Under the drivers and observers seat is where the foam was injected. Should be a strip on each side about three inches wide where they patched it. I saw an 85 that was soft under the drivers seat. Cut it out and patched and it is as good as new.

I did my 86 last year and had no soft spots.
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Old 03-01-2015, 02:05 PM
swilke318 swilke318 is online now
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Geez! You could eat off that floor! I'm not quite that motivated. Sanding and clean up with acetone today.

The soft spot is right behind the driver seat maybe a 1'x2' section. It's not too soft though. I really have to put pressure to notice it. If I can get another 10 years out of it without cutting the floor out that's what I'm shooting for. Both sides of floor are "wavy" for lack of a better term but seem solid other than the one spot.

Did you fill your holes in and re-drill when putting everything back together?
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Old 03-01-2015, 02:34 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Originally Posted by swilke318 View Post
Geez! You could eat off that floor! I'm not quite that motivated. Sanding and clean up with acetone today.

The soft spot is right behind the driver seat maybe a 1'x2' section. It's not too soft though. I really have to put pressure to notice it. If I can get another 10 years out of it without cutting the floor out that's what I'm shooting for. Both sides of floor are "wavy" for lack of a better term but seem solid other than the one spot.

Did you fill your holes in and re-drill when putting everything back together?
I have used the 5200 for fills and re-tapping but for me, it does not harden enough. The 4200 is no better. That 5200 takes forever to set up completely (2+ weeks from my use). I am jut not impressed with any of those two products other than mediocre use. I now use a two part epoxy filler and let it harden. Here's the beauty of your floor sections. You can fill the holes in the stringers all day long and reposition new entry holes right through the floor and into the stringers.

From all of the work I have done, I have gone that route (including new carpet) and used new entry points, larger size screws for a better bite and use sealant on the screws upon initial entry. Mark the holes in the stringers and drill smaller pilot holes, fill with silicone and then enter the new screws. Has always worked for me. Old holes are sealed and because I do not use the filled areas of the old holes, I use silicone to seal them and call it a day. Your preferences and mileage may vary.

I'd cut every bit of that floor out and put in new material while you are at this point. When you get it open you will find foam. Clean it all out and leave the cells empty, put in new floor sections (sealed with epoxy resin). Set them back in place and call it a better day. Do it now and you're guaranteed another 10 years - otherwise it is a crap shoot. Pay me now or pay me later

One thing to consider - condition of stringers when you get the floor open. I believe in doing things at the best possible time, and it won't get any better for you than now.

Save your old carpet for templates

good luck on the refurbishment. That's better than skiing itself. And please, no tower on a slalom boat.
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Old 03-01-2015, 02:42 PM
occva occva is offline
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I took careful measurements of each hole from two different locations, ( motor mount bracket and center of pylon brace) and noted each measurement of the floor with sharpie. Took pictures of both sides for reference. After the carpet was installed I used a needle to probe and find the holes. I cut a small circle of carpet out and injected a small squirt of polyuerthane sealant in the hole before installing the screw. It took a little bit of time, but I have no extra holes in the floor to possibly leak. Marine tex is really hard. I don't know if you could drive a screw through it without cracking the repair. For the center section I pushed a needle up from the bottom with a piece of thread on it. Those were easy.

Last edited by occva; 03-01-2015 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 03-01-2015, 06:25 PM
swilke318 swilke318 is online now
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Thanks for the info and advice. This 86 will definitely never see a tower as long as I own it... The bimini was pushing it for me. I'll post some more pics as I get further along.
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Old 03-29-2015, 12:00 PM
swilke318 swilke318 is online now
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Filled holes, rewired stereo components and bilge area, Wet sanded, buffed, and ready for carpet. I found out how much I despise gelcoat work. Although, I did learn some lessons for next year when I focus on the exterior. Gel came out a little cloudy after compound, polish, wax. I should have done a better job wet sanding but will fix all that up next off season. Carpet is going in today and should have interior back from shop this week. Any ideas on running speaker wire in the gunnels without drilling/adding more holes?


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Old 03-29-2015, 01:06 PM
swilke318 swilke318 is online now
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Does anyone have a pic of the sticker below so I can input the correct numbers for a new one.
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Old 03-29-2015, 01:32 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swilke318 View Post
Any ideas on running speaker wire in the gunnels without drilling/adding more holes?
I have taken a 1/2" dia. pvc or similar tubing and tacked it in with epoxy resin up inside the gunnel area and used that as a conduit or raceway for the wiring. Three-quarter inch dia. may not be a bad idea, your call. No holes required anywhere.

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Does anyone have a pic of the sticker below so I can input the correct numbers for a new one.
There is a place that will reprint these for you. You can search for the link and reference here. I think it is a place for trailer capacity stickers but I also believe they do passenger placards also. I do not have a picture on hand.
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