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  #1  
Old 11-18-2015, 12:10 PM
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TLR67 TLR67 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Boat: 1990 190
Location: Southeast
Posts: 553
To Wetsand or Not....

I am going to tackle this after 26 Years this winter......... Any Yay's or Nay's? I have done some searching but would like to hear tips, tricks , Sand Paper grades ect for anyone that has been through this especially with a Red Hull.... Here is what I have and I plan on peeling all the decals and pin striping off.. As well as re spraying the window frame to complete it... Oxidation is not too bad but there are some minor scratches I would like to eliminate... I would think wet sanding would be the key to bring this baby back to show room shine....

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  #2  
Old 11-18-2015, 12:13 PM
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MC25 MC25 is offline
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Boat: 2011 X25, 85 S&S
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Have any close up pictures? Wet sanding may not be necessary.
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2011 X25-Wetsounds galore, GoSurfAssist equipped!
1985 S&S
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  #3  
Old 11-18-2015, 02:03 PM
keithh2oskier keithh2oskier is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Boat: 02 Ski Nautique 196
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 25
I agree with Aric, Any photos of the boat not in the water where the gelcoat is dry? No personal experience with wetsanding but based on the photo I would think a compound and polish would do the trick.
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  #4  
Old 11-18-2015, 02:44 PM
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TLR67 TLR67 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Boat: 1990 190
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http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=65241

Here are the latest...Page 3.... I wont be selling her....
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  #5  
Old 11-18-2015, 04:14 PM
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aquaman aquaman is offline
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Boat: 93 Barefoot 200 Yamaha 225F
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Unless you have something else you really want......that boat is a keeper.

Its also OK to have more than 1 boat!!
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  #6  
Old 11-18-2015, 04:50 PM
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ccelia ccelia is offline
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Boat: 2009 Mastercraft X-45
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always hard to tell the condition through pictures, but it doesn't look like you need to wetsand to bring that boat back to showroom condition.

A compound and polish would work great, although you may need to sand the minor scratches, depending on how deep they are.
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  #7  
Old 11-18-2015, 05:24 PM
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Shaun R Shaun R is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Boat: 1995 Prostar 190 LT1/Powerslot
Location: Austin, Texas
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I would just use wax and not even consider wet sanding unless you have scratches to remove. Hull looks far better than most her age.
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  #8  
Old 11-18-2015, 05:36 PM
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AZDave AZDave is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Boat: 1993 Stars & Stripes Prostar 190 351 285 hp
Location: sw
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My 93 looked pretty good, but I decided to get a Porter Cable 7324, with applicator pads and give it a good buffing. After washing old wax away, I started with Meguiar's 49 Oxidation Remover. Next I used 3m Finesse It II. Followed by a nice Collonite wax. This process removed any water spots and really made the boat "pop" so to speak. I am sure the experts here will provide even better techniques. It's kind of fun once you get started.
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  #9  
Old 11-18-2015, 05:52 PM
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paco_06 paco_06 is offline
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Boat: 1993 prostar 205/1985 stars&stripes
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A good buffer is all you need. Cutting compound followed by a polishing compound on the scratches, and a polishing compound on the rest of the boat. You'll be good to go. You've had that boat since new and it's easy to tell your mcocd is high enough you won't need to wet sand.
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2015, 07:20 PM
jgraham37128 jgraham37128 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLR67 View Post
I am going to tackle this after 26 Years this winter......... Any Yay's or Nay's? I have done some searching but would like to hear tips, tricks , Sand Paper grades ect for anyone that has been through this especially with a Red Hull.... Here is what I have and I plan on peeling all the decals and pin striping off.. As well as re spraying the window frame to complete it... Oxidation is not too bad but there are some minor scratches I would like to eliminate... I would think wet sanding would be the key to bring this baby back to show room shine....

You're boat doesn't look bad enough to wet sand. I would recommend carrying it to a good fiberglass guy to repair the scratches(This won't be expensive) and then give it a good buffing with heavy cut compound, medium Polish, then a sealer. You'll be good to go.
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