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Old 08-29-2004, 09:41 PM
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georgea0731 georgea0731 is offline
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Help w/04 trailer, keeps locking up w/o boat?

Anyone, know why my single axle trailer keeps locking up when I try to stop when the boat isn't on the trailer?

What do I need to do to fix this problem?

I check the brake fluid, it's about 2/3 to 3/4 per manual. The lights are connected and seem to all work, but not on during the day.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Please email us at amonette516@comcast.net

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 08-29-2004, 09:46 PM
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georgea0731 georgea0731 is offline
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New Info. from MC

I talked to Mark, Tech Support at the factory. He said thay have a small o ring like item, orfaset (sp) that can be put in the line to help reduce the pressure. He said to contact your dealer and ask them to order part number, 650680. He said putting it in the line was easy, but you would have to bleed the brakes afterwards.

I recommended he come online and publish this official Mastercraft solution, but I don't think he thought it was a good idea.

Good luck,
I hope your dealers know about this too.
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Last edited by georgea0731; 09-07-2004 at 07:47 PM. Reason: New Info. from MC
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  #3  
Old 08-29-2004, 10:14 PM
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Mag_Red Mag_Red is offline
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George, my trailer did the same thing. If you have the flat trailer light connector, the fix is somewhat easy, but still a pain in the butt. You need to find which prong, on the tow vehicle connector, controls the running lights. Easy way to do this is turn your running lights (ie parking lights), take a testor light and probe the connector until it lights. Now what you need to do is plug the prong from the trailer harness that controls the back up lights( it's on the end and has three blue wires going to it) into the vehicle connector where the running lights operate.

What this does is fool the trailer into thinking you are backing up( as long as your parking lights are on) and it closes the selonoid that allows the trailer brakes to operate. I know this is a pain in the butt, but it works! You just have to remember to reconnect the harness the correct way after you load your boat.
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Old 08-30-2004, 12:45 AM
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You're better off in the long run to just connect the 5 wire harness the right way. There are aftermarket harnesses available that plug into the vehicle harness so you don't need to splice anything. You need the backup light wire to be connected so the bypass valve can actuate and keep the brakes from engaging in reverse. Your dealer should have told you all about this. Also, the trailer comes from MC with a harness that can be attached to the vehicle, usually tied to the tongue jack.
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Old 08-30-2004, 11:34 AM
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Mag_Red Mag_Red is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN
You're better off in the long run to just connect the 5 wire harness the right way. There are aftermarket harnesses available that plug into the vehicle harness so you don't need to splice anything. You need the backup light wire to be connected so the bypass valve can actuate and keep the brakes from engaging in reverse. Your dealer should have told you all about this. Also, the trailer comes from MC with a harness that can be attached to the vehicle, usually tied to the tongue jack.
Jim he was asking for a way to stop the brakes from locking up when the trailer is empty! Doing what you suggest does nothing to help him. The ramp I have to go down at Lake Cumberland when loading my boat is a steep 45 degree grade. When the trailer is empty it still suges forward on the ball and activates the disc brakes. It is scary...damned scary how the trailer bucks on the way down the hill! Not to mention the embarressment from every one looking at you like you don't know what you are doing. Mastercraft should step to the plate and solve this problem.........but in the mean time, my advise is the only solution. You have to make the trailer think you are backing up so it closes the solenoid. I did say that the wires should be reconnected properly after you load the boat.
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Old 08-30-2004, 01:00 PM
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MYMC MYMC is offline
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This is not an issue that is fixable (with the current set-up). The trailer brakes are designed to assist in stopping a boat & trailer that weighs in excess of 3500lbs. If you remove 2620lbs from that equation ('04 PS 190 dry weight) then you have the breaking power of the above applied to an 880lbs trailer. You have lost the extra traction provided by the increased weight...weight is the single greatest factor for generating traction.

The new couplers apply more braking force than the old ones...they also bring the vehicle to stop in a shorter distance, so they are safer. The trailer was not designed to be used on roadways and interstates in an "unloaded" condition. For moving short distances the only way is to activate the reverse solenoid (explained elsewhere in this thread)...however, please make sure that all components are correctly installed/coupled before you load the boat and head out on the road.
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Old 08-30-2004, 01:01 PM
blacter blacter is offline
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Check out this thread on mymastercraft.com:

http://www.mymastercraft.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=65
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  #8  
Old 08-30-2004, 03:47 PM
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captkidd captkidd is offline
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From all this I'm guessing that the newer trailers do not have the little pin that can be inserted to prevent the actuator from sliding back and engaging the brakes?
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  #9  
Old 08-30-2004, 04:05 PM
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The actuators have a latch that can be lifted into place when reversing (locking the slide mechanism); however, it resets itself when you begin moving forward.
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  #10  
Old 08-30-2004, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MYMC
The actuators have a latch that can be lifted into place when reversing (locking the slide mechanism); however, it resets itself when you begin moving forward.
So, other than my fix, the only other solution is to only drive in reverse when the trailer is empty???
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