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Old 08-10-2005, 11:32 AM
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Boat: 2004 TT 197/LQ9/Powerslot
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Rookie Prop Question

Well....I finally hit a rock this weekend leaving the boat launch. The damage was very minimal and no vibration was present so we continued to use the boat for the rest of the day. It has been driving me nuts knowing the prop is damaged so I took it in to the MC dealer this morning to get repaired. My boat is a 1999 Sportstar with the 310hp engine, and the damaged prop was a 13x13 4 balde OJ. I have two questions regarding a spare prop.

1. Has anyone used a Solas stainless propeller? I can get a new 4 blade from a supplier of ours for $192 (retail of $386) or I can get a 4 blade (brand unknown to me-non-stainless) from the MC dealer for $349.00. My plan is to use the new prop only until the OJ gets back(less than one week) then it would only be a spare. Is this a bad idea? I have heard there is a better chance of damage to other parts of the boat with a stainless prop because it will not give as easily as brass? I plan on selling the boat and do not want to dump a lot of money in that I will not get back....but would like to use the boat in the next week.

2. Being fairly new and having never purchased a new prop, I need to know if I need a 1" or 1/18" shaft and a right or left(I think left) rotating prop. Also the only shaft taper is 1/16" so I am guessing that is standard?

Thanks in advance for your advice

Last edited by Datdude; 08-10-2005 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 08-10-2005, 11:40 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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You'll have a 1" keyed shaft, Left rotation. As spares go, I wouldn't drop much money into one. So many for sale on here. Just get a used 3 blade for $50 or so to keep you on the water. Of course, by the time it gets to you, you'll have yours back, so sort of a waste.

As steel goes, I don't see the point. As far as I understand, a CNC'd nibril will perform as well or better. As for hitting things (which, as in mine, is clearly a possibility in your scenario), yes, you are more likely to bend things further up the drive train with a steel prop. Of course, if you hit something hard enough with a nibril prop, you can bend the shaft, etc., too.

If you want to try something new, try an Acme or OJ CNC'd 3 blade prop. If you know you'll be keeping yours, just do without the boat for a week and wait on your repair (or get a used 13x13 3 blade) for a lot less.

my $.02
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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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Old 08-10-2005, 12:23 PM
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Datdude Datdude is offline
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If I order the stainless one today by 3:00pm I can have it tomorrow and salvage this weekend(not too many left here in Northern Wisconsin). The other benefit is that it is almost half the coin of a new NiBrAl prop. Thanks for the technical info East TX, I appreciate it
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Old 08-10-2005, 02:46 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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I understand the dilema a bit better now. Hard to imagine an end of the season in sight as hot as it's been here this week.
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Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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