Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Restorations and Refurbishments

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #81  
Old 03-13-2012, 11:25 PM
wishart wishart is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Boat: 1982 stars and stripes
Location: Campbell, California
Posts: 89
floor/stringer update:

Floor and stringer update:

This part of the project was a long haul....Not really hard, but it just took time...

I was able to get all the old floor boards out in one piece, and used them as a templet to cut the new pieces.

Taking great care on removing the old stringers and floors so they could be used as patterns was also key....This saved a lot of time when fabricating the new pieces. Very little trimming/fitting was needed after the patterns were transfered to the new materials.

Material used for floor is 1/2" "sanded" plywood. According to the "lumber expert" at Lowes, the plywood was rated as 'indoor/outdoor". I guess the glues used in the plywood are rated for indoor/outdoor use. The sign above the stack of wood also noted that it was suitable for outdoor use...with the appropriate top coat.

I coated all sides and top/bottom of the plywood with the epoxy resin before installing the new decking into the hull. Looking back on the project....I think I should have just coated the bottom of the plywood with the resin to protect the material from moisture. Coating both sides of the decking used quite a bit of resin material....and I top coated the decking with 1-2 layers of cloth/resin material anyway.

I used 1 1/4 #8 stainless deck screws to attach the plywood to the stringers.

3m 5200 marine adhesive (in a calking gun) was used to seal the decking to the sides of the hull, and around the engine mounting area.

Used my 12" wide fiberglass cloth and covered the entire floor with the material, and about 4 inches up the side of the hull to add strength between the hull and new deck.

After dried, I went back over all joints with my 4" fiberglass cloth. Now every joint as at least 2 layers of the fiberglass material.

I went over the engine mounting area a couple more times with the 4" material to add strength and to waterproof the area.

Next step on the project...paint the center section of the hull with a grey paint, like from the factory, replace prop shaft packing material, and install the engine/transmission.....

Glad this part of the project is over....very time consuming, it's a sticky mess! I ruined about 3 pairs of pants during this process.

Material check:
I have used every bit of my 2 rolls of fiberglass cloth (one 50yrd roll 12" wide, and one 50yrd roll 4"wide. I actually had to buy another roll of 4" wide material.)

My 6 gallons of resin material is about gone also....


The 12" and 4" wide fiberglass was key on this project...would have been harder using a different width material.

So....I feel that the 6gallon kit from aero marine was just about right.

I decided NOT to put the foam back between the stringers...I feel the area is sealed quite well, and there is not a significant added benefit with the foam between the stringers.

enjoy the project pictures...
Attached Images
      
Reply With Quote
  #82  
Old 03-14-2012, 12:40 AM
saclass's Avatar
saclass saclass is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Boat: 1981 Stars and Stripes, PCM 351
Location: southwest
Posts: 28
Talking

Wow, looking good!

Did you use CPES to coat the wood before epoxy/glass? I have heard many rave about it on here and CCfan, but after my own experience I am not a fan...see my thread for details.

It looks like your exhaust must run in between the main stringers and not on the outside of them as mine do. This is good as the stock floor configuration did not allow access to the exhaust on mine without tearing out floor. I will modify this so that the rear center "non-permanent" piece that is wider than stock so the exhaust is accessible. A leak there can sink a boat, seen that happen!

I agree just coating the bottom of the floor would be sufficient if you are glassing the top. Matter of fact my entire floor will be coated with 3M poly on the bottom and glass on the top (with 3M poly). Epoxy on all the stringers though.

Keep us posted, I'm trying to catch up
Reply With Quote
  #83  
Old 03-14-2012, 02:37 AM
wishart wishart is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Boat: 1982 stars and stripes
Location: Campbell, California
Posts: 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by saclass View Post
Wow, looking good!

Did you use CPES to coat the wood before epoxy/glass? I have heard many rave about it on here and CCfan, but after my own experience I am not a fan...see my thread for details.

It looks like your exhaust must run in between the main stringers and not on the outside of them as mine do. This is good as the stock floor configuration did not allow access to the exhaust on mine without tearing out floor. I will modify this so that the rear center "non-permanent" piece that is wider than stock so the exhaust is accessible. A leak there can sink a boat, seen that happen!

I agree just coating the bottom of the floor would be sufficient if you are glassing the top. Matter of fact my entire floor will be coated with 3M poly on the bottom and glass on the top (with 3M poly). Epoxy on all the stringers though.

Keep us posted, I'm trying to catch up
Been reading/following your thread also...looking good....

I was lead towards CPES while doing my research on this project, and infact purchased enough CPES product to tackle the stringer/floor job.

I was a little skeptical about using this "super product", and opted to seal the wood using the old tried and true method with the resins....returning the CPES I purchased, and yes...there was a restocking fee...


1982 must have been the transition year where they ran the exhaust down the center of the stringers...much better design than going outboard of the main stringers.

Still thinking about the foam idea....you are right...if water is able to enter on the outside of the main stringers (remember, everything is now freshly sealed) water could theoretically fill that whole area up, possibly causing the boat to sink.

The foam was placed in that area not only to add boiancy to the boat in the event that the whole thing filled up with water, but it also displaced the empty space not allowing thearea to fill up with water in the event that the area sprung a leak.

The way that the foam was origionally installed into this area, was that the floor was punched with something like a 3" hole saw in a few places, and the liquid foam material was poured into the area and when it expand, the area was filled with foam! The "plug" cut out by the hole saw was the placed back in the hole it came out of (think puzzle piece) and then fiberglassed back into place.

Pretty effective method...when removing the old deck material, there was just a small space up against the transom that the foam didn't flow...every other space was entirely filled with foam!

Not too late for me to do this....still may....don't know yet...more thinking needed...

Was also thinking about popping in a 2 more exterior drain plugs, outboard of the main stringers so I can monitor if water is entering into this area....The way it is set up now....you would never know if water has entered into this area...

maybe I'm doing too much thinking....
Attached Images
  
Reply With Quote
  #84  
Old 03-14-2012, 04:42 PM
03geetee's Avatar
03geetee 03geetee is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Boat: 1983 Skier 190 Stars and Stripes
Location: Midwest
Posts: 1,264
Sick!

JTR
__________________
1983 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes
Cream/Red Metal Flake
"Powerslot"
"The misery that is now upon us is but the passing of GREED-the bitterness of men who fear the way of human progress. The hate of all men will pass, and dictators die and the power they took from the people will return to the people and so long as men die Liberty will never perish."
-Charles Chaplin-
Reply With Quote
  #85  
Old 03-14-2012, 07:27 PM
mikeg205's Avatar
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Boat: 1995 Pro Star 205 5.7 Liter
Location: Plainfield - Joliet, IL
Posts: 10,400
Send a message via Skype™ to mikeg205
Looking very good...noted on the pants...I will save some old pants when I get to my future restore project...
__________________
...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
Reply With Quote
  #86  
Old 03-14-2012, 07:37 PM
19_Skier's Avatar
19_Skier 19_Skier is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Boat: 2001 19Skier
Location: Ontario
Posts: 439
Thanks for taking the time to document this restore, that rig is going to look amazing when you are done!
Reply With Quote
  #87  
Old 03-14-2012, 08:24 PM
Slinkyredfoot's Avatar
Slinkyredfoot Slinkyredfoot is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Boat: 1979 Mastercraft, 1998 ProStar 205
Location: East of Westfield
Posts: 1,925
I love the pictures and from what I can see, this restoration has been well thought out and planned, very top of the line, can't wait to see the results.
__________________
If for some reason you start to believe you are a person with influence, just try ordering somebody else's dog around.
Reply With Quote
  #88  
Old 03-15-2012, 02:18 PM
saclass's Avatar
saclass saclass is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Boat: 1981 Stars and Stripes, PCM 351
Location: southwest
Posts: 28
[quote=wishart;822361]Been reading/following your thread also...looking good....

1982 must have been the transition year where they ran the exhaust down the center of the stringers...much better design than going outboard of the main stringers.

Still thinking about the foam idea....you are right...if water is able to enter on the outside of the main stringers (remember, everything is now freshly sealed) water could theoretically fill that whole area up, possibly causing the boat to sink.

The foam was placed in that area not only to add boiancy to the boat in the event that the whole thing filled up with water, but it also displaced the empty space not allowing thearea to fill up with water in the event that the area sprung a leak.

The way that the foam was origionally installed into this area, was that the floor was punched with something like a 3" hole saw in a few places, and the liquid foam material was poured into the area and when it expand, the area was filled with foam! The "plug" cut out by the hole saw was the placed back in the hole it came out of (think puzzle piece) and then fiberglassed back into place.

QUOTE]

When I mentioned sinking the boat I was mainly referring to how on mine there was no way to inspect or repair the exhaust with floor in place. I wish they ran the exhaust inboard of the stringers like yours, but I am modifying the floor to give me access.

That said, I would personally replace the floor foam, just in case.

Mine has no floor foam, all in the bow so I have no storage up there.

thinking of partitioning off the exhaust and putting in floor foam so I can remove some from the bow, I hate how little storage there is now.
Reply With Quote
  #89  
Old 03-16-2012, 01:32 AM
wishart wishart is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Boat: 1982 stars and stripes
Location: Campbell, California
Posts: 89
Making progress

Some more progress made today...

It's feeling good that the boat is now on it's way back together....


I painted the center of the hull and where the hull and new floor meet...Light grey......Like Mastercraft did from the factory.

Used "Cardinal Industrial" paint product. Heavy duty polyurethane paint product that should hold up well with water/oils, etc. Came out really nice.
Attached Images
   
Reply With Quote
  #90  
Old 03-16-2012, 01:53 AM
wishart wishart is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Boat: 1982 stars and stripes
Location: Campbell, California
Posts: 89
Thanks for the positive feedback everyone....

Keeping you posted....
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:01 AM.