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  #31  
Old 02-08-2012, 10:02 PM
liledgy liledgy is offline
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Just from reading other stringer threads, most of the people try to save as much of the stringer as they can when removing t to use as a template. Not sure if the mastercraft stringers were perfectly square like a 2x. Correct crafts were tapered to te hull. Some of the rebuilds eliminated the foam to prevent it from soaking the stringers again if the glass is ever compromised. Now would be a good time to retro fit your platform bolts/lags. Maybe put removable brackets on.
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  #32  
Old 02-08-2012, 10:24 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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  #33  
Old 02-09-2012, 12:01 AM
wishart wishart is offline
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Thanks for the tips...going to attempt to remove at least one stringer tomorrow. I am interested to see how hard it is going to be to remove the bonding between the bottom of the stringer and hull.

Ordered a 6gallon "kit" of epoxy/hardener and fiberglass cloth in 4" and 12" from Aeromarine today. I have no idea how much material this job is going to take, but there is some surface area involved coating both sides of the new decking.

What do you think....just use the epoxy/hardener to coat the new decking, or also encorporate a layer of cloth material over the entire top of the new plywood surface. The origional plywood almost looks like it has a slight fiberous texture to it rather than just being coated with the resin. I know when building some boats (especially hot boats like Sangers), they used something called a "chop gun" that actually sprayed the fiberous material onto the surface they were coating. Maybe a method like this was used to cover the origional decking. From what I have seen from other floor rebuilds on the site, it appears that just coating your deck and sides with the resins is sufficient enough.
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  #34  
Old 02-09-2012, 10:31 AM
liledgy liledgy is offline
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Another thing I read was to make sure the moisture content is below 10%? 7% is better. It could of been .7%, not 7.
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  #35  
Old 02-09-2012, 02:02 PM
Bruce Carr Bruce Carr is offline
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Good call on the Aeromarine epoxy resin. That stuff will bond well to old substrates, it is easy to work with and does not have a strong odor so you can use it indoors without extraordinary ventalation issues. I have no affilation with Aeromarine but i have used their resin on a couple of projects.

When bonding the new spars to the hull, be sure and clean the old glass as best you can to get the oils off of it, then rough it up with 40-60 grit sandpaper before you lay the glass cloth and resin over the stringers and onto the hull. Clean it up before you start sanding because you can easily transfer the oils and dirt into your bond line during the sanding process. Apply a generous coat of resin to all surfaces of your new plywwod deck and let it cure a day or so before you install it in the boat. This will seal the wood and provide for good adhesion with the spars. After you get the deck installed, lay up two plies of fiberglass cloth over the deck going up the sides of the boat and down the inboard sides of the stringers 3 -4 inches. Enjoy
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  #36  
Old 02-09-2012, 04:07 PM
liledgy liledgy is offline
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The moisture content I was referring to the Douglas fir.
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  #37  
Old 02-09-2012, 07:08 PM
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jhall0711 jhall0711 is offline
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I did complete stringer and floor replacement in a Supra; so I know about where your at. As stated, best to spoxy the stringers to the floor first; I used dura-glass. As far as how much resin/epoxy I used; roughly 4 gallons and some change. I reinforced mat at engine mounts and put mat and epoxy over the entire floor to the sides of the boat for rigidity. There is no need to replace any foam that comes out but make sure you take out all that is wet; do not leave moisture in it. As far as moisture in wood; make sure you get kiln dried wood; no matter what kind. Treated lumber has moisture in it and if you then put epoxy all around it you trap that moisture in.

If yo have more questions I will try to keep an eye out to answer. I attached a few pictures that show how once I glassed the stringers in I then laid the floor and glassed all the way down into the bilge... Some say over kill... but the boat was very strong after.
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  #38  
Old 02-10-2012, 12:52 AM
wishart wishart is offline
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Your repair turned out really nice! Thanks for the tips.


Bruce: I was the one who contacted you last week about your fiberglass repairs that you had for sale (you had already sold them). I took your suggestion and bought the same materials from Aeromarine that you were selling. Thanks.

I was able to remove one of the stringers today. I am glad that I went this far for the repair! When trying to determine the extent of the stringer damage while inspecting the stringer with the floor and foam still in the boat, it didn't really look all that bad. Now that the stringer is out, and laying on the shop floor....that thing is wasted!!! Completly water logged from front to back, and a 8" section towards the front is non-existent....completly rotted!

I'm not suprised, these boats are known to have stringer issues...It is afterall a 30yr old boat! When purchasing this boat, I had my suspesions that I would get into some structual repair....and as sick as this may sound...looking forward to it!

I was suprised to see that the stringer was NOT bonded to the hull. It was held in place with a "fillet" of material along the sides and the fiberglass cloth. I cut all that loose with a die grinder/4"cutting blade, and lifted the baby out!

Ran a industrial sander over the hull to knock down the stringer area. Ready to shape new stringer, and reglass into the hull.

I have noticed that now that the stringer and floor has been removed the boat has become quite unstable...you can push on the side of the boat and you can tell it's a little loosey goosie! I think it might be a good idea to replace one stringer at a time!
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  #39  
Old 02-10-2012, 12:55 AM
wishart wishart is offline
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today's progress pic.
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  #40  
Old 02-10-2012, 10:09 AM
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03geetee 03geetee is offline
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Great work so far!

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