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  #11  
Old 11-30-2011, 05:27 PM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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The end to end measurement doesnt mean much... there can be a decent amount of variation on how long the threads are. I would push to have them size it based on the distance you have from the tranny coupler and the end of the strut. Add 1/2" of clearance between the strut and prop hub.
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  #12  
Old 12-21-2011, 11:22 AM
travis351 travis351 is offline
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Thanks for all the help guys. I found a prop on Ski It Again for $125 and another on eBay for $50! SkiDim is sending shaft, strut bearings and a few other things I needed. 12% off using PEACE as the promo code before the end of the year. Writeup to follow next month.
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  #13  
Old 12-21-2011, 11:40 AM
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you found a prop on ebay for 50? thats a good deal......
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2012, 08:06 AM
travis351 travis351 is offline
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I'm having issues removing the strut to replace the bearings. It must be glued to the hull, appears to be silicone. Anybody have any experience removing a stuck strut?

I'm torn between leaving it on there and buying the bearing tool to take care of this instead of trying to pry it or twist it off to get it to a press. Any advice?
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  #15  
Old 01-15-2012, 08:15 AM
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could you use a piece of all thread and some sockets to make you own bearing puller instead of removing the struts?
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  #16  
Old 01-15-2012, 09:05 AM
travis351 travis351 is offline
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I probably could, I'm just a little concerned about the force required to pull both bearings out at once. I expected the strut to just fall once the screws were out. The bearings are actually in good shape, but with the new shaft, I hoped to switch to the new style plastic bearings instead of the brass/rubber ones. I could even just leave the existing ones...just hate to pass up the opportunity while the shaft is out.
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  #17  
Old 01-15-2012, 09:16 AM
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To remove the cutlass bearings ("strut bearings") you need to pull the shaft, which you have done. Then take a hack saw blade and stick it through the middle and cut the bearing taking care not to cut into the strut. After you cut through it use a screw driver to pry one side of it up. It sould free it up and come out. You can stick the blade through and then put the hack saw back together and cut away.

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Make sure you clean up the ID of the strut real good with some emery cloth but don't take too much meat out.

An install tip is to put the new bearing or bearings, if they are two piece, in the freezer for a few hours. This will cause the material to shrink and it should slide right in to the strut.

Hope this is what you needed.
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  #18  
Old 01-15-2012, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travis351 View Post
I'm having issues removing the strut to replace the bearings. It must be glued to the hull, appears to be silicone. Anybody have any experience removing a stuck strut?

I'm torn between leaving it on there and buying the bearing tool to take care of this instead of trying to pry it or twist it off to get it to a press. Any advice?
I wouldn't panic just yet about the bushings. I thought I had to press mine out but I sprayed them down with some liquid wrench and let it soak in for a while. I took an extension for a 1/2 ratchet and tapped both of mine out with no problem. The strut is stuck to the hull with adhesive and you will get many different suggestions as the best way to remove it. You should be able to insert the end of your old shaft into the strut and give it a yank. You want to seal up the new strut as well to keep water from entering from the bolt holes.
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  #19  
Old 01-21-2012, 05:54 AM
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travis 351, did you get it????????



BUMP..........

Last edited by psychobilly; 02-05-2012 at 08:55 AM. Reason: Bump thread to see what Travis has done.......
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  #20  
Old 02-05-2012, 12:32 PM
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Travis, did you ever get these out????


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=30.118237,-95.468008
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