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  #21  
Old 10-27-2011, 11:32 AM
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Lumbergh Lumbergh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d2jp View Post
My block drain on the starter side is well forward of the starter - towards the front of the engine. The left drain is on the rear, the right on the front-side of the block, just behind alternator.
The forward drain on the right side (behind drivers seat) is also the shower tap, at least it is on mine.

I added QD couplings to my shower (and heater lines as well) to make quick work of these tasks.
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  #22  
Old 10-27-2011, 01:23 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbgbottle View Post
i think i am going to just run some antifreeze throught it and then shut it down and most likely drain the engine and leave it be .i found some SIERRA Antifreeze-Coolant premium quality propylene glycol for an engine not RV stuff, hopefully this stuff won't kill my dog .

i may put some heat to them and see what happens .i'll post back if i ever get them out.
so if they do come out without stripping , can i replace them with brass plugs ?

thanks for the feedback guys .

cheers Jake
4 or 5 gallons of the cheap RV antifreeze is the stuff to use. Search "winterization" on here and you will have tons of reading.
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  #23  
Old 10-30-2011, 10:56 PM
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update .got them out !
9/16 allen head socket and a big breaker bar and a pipe wrench on the end of the plug and two of us wrenching .one of them cracked free right away the other was a quite a bit tighter . but in the end they both came out . also took each manifold bolt out one at a time and cleaned them up and put some never-sieze on them . also put two new drain cocks in the block .
do they make drain cocks for the manifold?

pics attatched . the inside of the manifold is full of crap .
and a small pic from the net of the drain cocks. below


,,,,,,,,,,,
Attached Images
  
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  #24  
Old 10-31-2011, 12:22 AM
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Manifold drains exist, but are easily clogged with rusty scale.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM003
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  #25  
Old 10-31-2011, 11:54 AM
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Kevin 89MC Kevin 89MC is offline
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I have the drain kit from Skidim, installed it several years ago. They do clog once in a while. Once I got the feel for how much should drain out of them, I got comfortable leaving them in. I usually have to pull one of the four when I winterize. I had the old style clog up as well, so keep an eye on those too. I would probably get them again, but they are not maintenance free.
Good luck,
Kevin
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  #26  
Old 10-31-2011, 10:12 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbgbottle View Post
update .got them out !
9/16 allen head socket and a big breaker bar and a pipe wrench on the end of the plug and two of us wrenching .one of them cracked free right away the other was a quite a bit tighter . but in the end they both came out . also took each manifold bolt out one at a time and cleaned them up and put some never-sieze on them . also put two new drain cocks in the block .
do they make drain cocks for the manifold?

pics attatched . the inside of the manifold is full of crap .
and a small pic from the net of the drain cocks. below


,,,,,,,,,,,
Excellent. Glad you got the issue resolved. Remember what I said about putting them back in, in the spring. I have learned the hard way, more than once.


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  #27  
Old 11-20-2011, 10:32 PM
James L. James L. is offline
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I purchased my 1990 ProStar 190 just over a year ago. I discovered similarly corroded threads, as shown in the picture posted above by pbgbottle, in the exhaust manifold and engine block drain holes when I winterized it in the fall of 2010 so I switched to brass drain plugs for both locations. I did not have any problem getting the brass plugs out when I winterized the boat today, but I did find it difficult to thread the plugs back into the drain holes. Seems like the drain plugs wouldn’t hardly even turn a full revolution before they snugged up today, which is what I experienced when I first used the brass plugs last year as well.

Has anyone ever tried using a tap to chase the threads in those drain holes? Did it improve the situation?

James L.
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  #28  
Old 11-20-2011, 10:48 PM
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Yeah, I had the very same problem this spring after I winterized last year...so I keep those threads covered with anti-sieze....actually any good motor grease will work....now I care for those threads all winter...a little TLC goes a long way like cloaked says...no my plugs, pet ****, and knock sensor spin right in.....
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  #29  
Old 11-26-2011, 03:34 AM
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If you'd have had to heat the manifold to get the plugs out, you should heat teh manifold, not the plug. The manifold will expand slightly and make it easier. Just like removing exhaust mainfold studs.
Don't put petcocks in the block drains. Use plugs. The petcocks can plug up easily with silt.sand/rust and leave water in the engine.
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  #30  
Old 05-22-2013, 05:31 PM
prostar205er prostar205er is offline
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exhaust manifold drain plugs full of rust

Reviving this thread...

So my exhaust manifold drain plugs threads are full of rust so I can't get my plugs to go in even a quarter turn. I knew I was on borrowed time as each year when I winterized they went back in less and less (and I didn't think to replace the plugs but in hindsight, as maybe that would have helped???). I think this last summer was the end of the line as I could see there had been some leakage over the course of the season and fear this summer could be worse. So I could use some help/suggestions.

Is there something I can put in there to eat out the rust so that I can regain some of those threads? Or re-tap the threads? I've read that I shouldn't force the brass plugs in there (but since I didn't see that first I tried and ended up only stripping the threads of my brass plugs). It is mainly at the bottom of the threads where the water has rusted over time. I tried picking at it with a screwdriver and was able to remove some of it, but not enough to really get my plugs to go in. Any thoughts or suggestions would be great (short of replacing the manifolds would be even greater!).

Thanks!
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