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  #101  
Old 03-25-2014, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cbryan70 View Post
My boat was there in oct. I wish I had the room to store somthing like that.
What did you have done?
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  #102  
Old 09-27-2015, 05:18 PM
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FoggyNogginz FoggyNogginz is offline
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Hey guys... quick thread revival...

Since the newer boats have a dripless shaft seal and they drain the manifolds when the engine turns off and the boat is pulled out of the water, what modifications do you make to your winterization method? Don't you lose a lot of antifreeze out of the manifolds via the shaft seal on these boats? Looking for recommendations. Thanks.
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  #103  
Old 09-27-2015, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by FoggyNogginz View Post
Hey guys... quick thread revival...

Since the newer boats have a dripless shaft seal and they drain the manifolds when the engine turns off and the boat is pulled out of the water, what modifications do you make to your winterization method? Don't you lose a lot of antifreeze out of the manifolds via the shaft seal on these boats? Looking for recommendations. Thanks.

You can put a towel over the hose to the shaft seal and just crimp it with vise grips. Or if you have access to the Tee fitting on the raw water line just pull the line off there and cap it at the Tee. Don't forget to hook it up in the spring.

Here's a tip I got from Eric at OJ props but you can take it for what its worth.

On my 06 I had an early version of the dripless system. It was one just like what you get now but didn't have a water line running to it. The reason the water line was added was because of poor alignments on the shaft that would over heat the seal. When I replaced mine Eric told me that I had and early version of the product and that he only added the water line to prevent failure due to poor alignment by poor maintenance. With that information I installed the new dripless seal system and did not hook up the water line. I just pluged it.

Moreover, Eric told me the seal is cooled by the water that comes up form under the boat. IE the water in the lake comes up the shaft and keeps the shaft cool enough that it does not over heat the seal unless you have very poor alignment. I figure I'm good enough at alignment that I didn't bother hooking up the water supply line.

Just more FYI.
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  #104  
Old 10-20-2015, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoggyNogginz View Post
Hey guys... quick thread revival...

Since the newer boats have a dripless shaft seal and they drain the manifolds when the engine turns off and the boat is pulled out of the water, what modifications do you make to your winterization method? Don't you lose a lot of antifreeze out of the manifolds via the shaft seal on these boats? Looking for recommendations. Thanks.
Well if you use the bucket method and a little short on water from the hose...loosen/remove both dripless exhaust elbow hoses/connect a clear 5/8 hose to each/secure...put the other ends into your bucket/while the engine is running this will add water to the bucket.
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  #105  
Old 10-23-2015, 11:57 AM
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CantRepeat CantRepeat is offline
 
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Adding AF with the bucket method. I ran the boat up to temp and then changed the oil and filter. I did not drain the block. Then ran back up to temp/160 and then added 5 gallons of 50/50. Some time today I'll crack open the starboard side drain on the block to show just how much AF is in the block.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE9PfH7rfro

And yes, the boat is getting washed inside and out today. End of season cleaning. lol

edit

I'm not going to open the drain plug until the spring. You'll just have to wait until then!!
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Last edited by CantRepeat; 10-24-2015 at 03:02 AM.
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  #106  
Old 10-26-2015, 01:24 AM
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FoggyNogginz FoggyNogginz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
You can put a towel over the hose to the shaft seal and just crimp it with vise grips. Or if you have access to the Tee fitting on the raw water line just pull the line off there and cap it at the Tee. Don't forget to hook it up in the spring.
Just more FYI.
Thanks Tim. I'm going to try this later this week. Much appreciated!

Kent
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  #107  
Old 10-26-2015, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
Adding AF with the bucket method. I ran the boat up to temp and then changed the oil and filter. I did not drain the block. Then ran back up to temp/160 and then added 5 gallons of 50/50. Some time today I'll crack open the starboard side drain on the block to show just how much AF is in the block.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE9PfH7rfro

And yes, the boat is getting washed inside and out today. End of season cleaning. lol

edit

I'm not going to open the drain plug until the spring. You'll just have to wait until then!!
Why 50/50 v. RV Antifreeze?

I assume you capture all the 50/50 and dispose of? Sounds like a hassle v. using RV
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  #108  
Old 10-26-2015, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyB View Post
Why 50/50 v. RV Antifreeze?

I assume you capture all the 50/50 and dispose of? Sounds like a hassle v. using RV
Better corrosion and rust protection.
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  #109  
Old 10-26-2015, 06:23 AM
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Are people using Phosphate Free AF @ 50/50...just curious with the levels of Aluminum in the engines. Peak long life 50/50 is, as are BMW, Porsche coolant, check on a Prestone to see what they have.
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  #110  
Old 10-26-2015, 06:42 AM
JamesL JamesL is offline
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Might be a stupid question but doesn't the pink RV and marine antifreeze say directly on the bottle do not use in water cooled engines? Something like "not intended for use in engines as antifreeze, marine engines" I did not use this for the engine portion of winterizing but i thought I saw/heard other using it in theirs. Is that just an environmental warning thing or whats the purpose? Thanks
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