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Old 10-23-2011, 10:01 AM
bcd bcd is offline
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new sound system advice

I bought my X2 with no sub or tower speakers, thinking I could do it better and cheaper myself. So far, I've got a Rockford Fosgate 12" P3 4 ohm DVC sub that I'm going to run at 2 ohms bridged, powered by a RF Prime 1000W RMS @ 2 ohm). I'm building the box now.

I'm planning on 2 tower speakers, thinking about Wetsounds rev10's. Any comments? Also, I'm trying to figure out how to best power the in boat and tower speakers. From what I've found, if I try going with a 5 or 6 channel amp, I'm only going to get around 50W to each in boat speaker. Shouldn't I shoot for 150W? I'm thinking I'm going to have to go with 2 different amps for the in boat and tower speakers. Any recommendations? I'd like to keep the budget under 2K for the amps and tower speakers.
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Old 10-23-2011, 10:16 AM
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EarmarkMarine EarmarkMarine is offline
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Right now there is really no better tower speaker in a stand-alone pair than the Wetsounds REV10s. So we don't have to give that any attention.
There isn't a 5 or 6 multi-channel amplifier available that will deliver enough power for the REV10s plus the in-boats and sub. Its going to require two chassis. A Wetsounds SYN4 bridged into two channels or a JL Audio MHD or HD750/1 would do the job on the tower about as good as its going to get.
Yes, the in-boat JL Audio 7.7-inch speakers will handle up to 150 watts each but you are not going to find a 5 or 6 channel amplifier that will deliver 150 watts per channel into a 4-ohm load. Assuming that you have four (two pair) in-boat 7.7s then the Wetsounds Syn6 or JL Audio MHD or HD900/5 would do a great job on everything in the boat (sub and satellites).

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Old 10-23-2011, 12:37 PM
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Thrall Thrall is offline
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What David has reccomended would be the perfect setup, but if you're on a budget, as I was, I have another suggestion.
First, there's room for 3 amps and assuming you want to use your current sub amp for the sub, then, get a JL M6600 for the in-boat speakers ($350 or so) and a Boston Accoustic GT-28 ($400 discontinued now) for the Tower speakers assuming you have speakers that need 150-200W.
On the 6channel for the cockpit spkrs, bridge 2 ch each to the rear spkrs and single channel to the front. The Boston will be plenty to drive 4 MC JL towers or 2 Rev10's. 2 ch to the rear speakers will get you close to the capacity of those speakers and they sound great. 75W/ch to the fronts is adequate, IMO, small area anyway.
I'me sure there are other options, but I have limited experience and this is the setup I ended up with when I built mine and it works very well.
Compared to my buddies X15 with 3 smaller subs, and teh 4 cockpit and 4 tower speakers, all under powered, 50-75W to each, my setup is much louder. Only other suggestion is to install line drivers on the inputs if you have to split the input signal more than once from the head unit. I haven't, but it is on the to do list and I think it osunds great right now, but I'm sure my signal voltage is lacking having some connections split 3x AFTER going through a pass through connection for the sub.
Make sure to budget for proper power, batteries and distribution, good wire and distribution blocks.
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Last edited by Thrall; 10-23-2011 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:08 AM
agarabaghi agarabaghi is offline
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Check out amazon and part express for distribution blocks and wire. I picked up 25ft of red and black 4awg for about $18 each. Also distribution blocks for $5 can't beat it.

Your going to want to hook up 2 batteries, and with that you will need an isolator. I strongly suggest the battery doctor isolator as it is a simple install. Im not sure you amp draw but i would think the 150amp battery doctor would be plenty. I overloaded the 100amp version with my system (~2600rms).
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Old 12-30-2011, 01:57 PM
bcd bcd is offline
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I decided I better get moving on purchasing my components so they're ready to go when I get the boat out of storage. I keep my boat in the garage and do a good job letting it air out, and I've never had an issue using non-marine amps before. I'm looking at an Infinity Kappa Four ($254, 125W RMS X 4 @ 4ohm) and a Rockford Fosgate P1000X4D ($393, 150W RMS X 4 @ 4ohm). I've never had any experience with Infinity, but I think I've heard good things. Any thoughts on which one I should go with? I'm leaning towards the Infinity (based on price).

I'm not sure what to do to power the rev 10 tower speakers. Is it better to go with a 2 channel amp, or a single amp bridged, or a 2 channel amp bridged? For example, I found a R-F T600-2 that is 200W RMS X 2 @ 4 ohms, or 600W RMS X 1 @ 4ohm (2ohm stable in bridged mode), which I assume means you can bridge it at 2 ohm.

What are the downsides with bridging?
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Old 12-30-2011, 04:19 PM
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swatguy swatguy is offline
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Those REV 10's need 400 Rms each to get what they offer from them. I own the 8's and they are money with the Syn 4 bridged pushing them at 400.

You are going to need a 2 amp solution for sure. I will throw Arc Audio into the mix as well. You are going to get a top of the line speaker in the 10's. Don't cheap out on an amp to save some cash.... it will only hurt the performance. Those huge Rev 10's will magnify any sort of distortion or noise related to cheap stuff. Spend the coin for a decent amp....if you don't have the coin I would say drop down to a lower model hl
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Last edited by swatguy; 12-30-2011 at 04:26 PM.
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  #7  
Old 01-01-2012, 03:44 PM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
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The new Polk Audio digital class D amps are pretty promising and marine certified. They're also CEA-2006 compliant so you can be confident that they will output the rated wattage.

There's a 2x125 @ 4 ohms/ 2x200 @2 ohms:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...PAD2000.2.html

A 4x125 @ 4 ohms/ 4x200 @2 ohms:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...PAD4000.4.html

There's a monoblock 500 @ 4 /800 @ 2 /1200 @ 1:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...PAD1000.1.html

And the one I have my eye on, the 5 ch (100x4 @ 4 ohms + 500x1 @ 1 ohm):
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...PAD5000.5.html
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Old 01-01-2012, 03:54 PM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcd View Post
What are the downsides with bridging?
Bridging combines the left and right stereo channels into a mono channel but doesn't necessarily imply that you're dropping the impedance of the load. So, you could "bridge" the left and right channels of a multi channel amp to a single 8 ohm mono load. This would be equivalent from the amp's perspective to a 4 ohm stereo load.

I've been out of the mobile audio game for too long but back in the class A/B days the disadvantage was that you'd generally run hotter and less efficient as you get closer to the minimum rated impedence. So, you'd get less runtime on the battery and you'd be more likely to go into protection mode on a hot day with the amp stuck in a closed compartment. You'd also generally get power that's less "clean" depending on the quality of the amp.

With a class D they reportedly run cool to the touch under normal conditions. So, I'm not exactly sure how the above plays out especially when you throw digital class D amps into the mix.
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Old 01-01-2012, 06:31 PM
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EarmarkMarine EarmarkMarine is offline
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I have no idea why they refer to Class D as a 'digital' amplifer because a Class D switching amplifier is absolutely analog all the way.
For a single pair of Wetsounds REV10s it would be advisable to run a Wetsounds Syn4 bridged into two channels for 400 watts per speaker.
Look, the REV10s being larger are more efficient with more output than the REV8 so you could just as easily run them with 200 watts per speaker like the REV8...but you are not fully taking advantage of the REV10 until you go with the Syn4. Don't shortcut a fanatastic speaker with tons of potential.

David
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  #10  
Old 01-01-2012, 07:47 PM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine View Post
I have no idea why they refer to Class D as a 'digital' amplifer because a Class D switching amplifier is absolutely analog all the way.
I'm not knowledgeable enough to comment on that but Polk's site calls them "High performance Digital Car Amplifier[s]" too.
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