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  #21  
Old 09-22-2011, 04:29 PM
wagskis2 wagskis2 is offline
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Eric's right on, find out as much as you can before you start throwing wrenches at it. From years of rebuilding engines, this elimnates surprises and throwing parts at hopefully the problem. If your compression tester has a quick disconnect, it probably has the same fitting as an air hose-mine do. Use that and set your compressed air to 30 PSI-that's plenty. Any more is dangerous-it can actually kick the motor back on the downstroke. It needs to be right at TDC of that cylinders compression stroke-both valves closed. I even will put a breaker bar on the crankshafgt bolt to hold it in place. Then just start listening for the hiss.
Nice thing about a blown head gasket-you don't need to pull the engine, they can be replaced in the boat-lots of old blankets on the seats and carpets!
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  #22  
Old 09-22-2011, 05:26 PM
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Wow...this thread rocks!!! Honestly...you guys are so cool to take the time to explain all of this. I have a feeling TooTall will be back on the water with your help. Sounds like I should be hoping for head gasket. Good Luck TooTall.
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  #23  
Old 09-22-2011, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ntidsl View Post
Wow...this thread rocks!!! Honestly...you guys are so cool to take the time to explain all of this. I have a feeling TooTall will be back on the water with your help. Sounds like I should be hoping for head gasket. Good Luck TooTall.
That's just the way it is around here. From the many responses, you can see there are several approaches to diagnosing where the problem(s) lie.

It is ironic in the way oldairboater put it as just last night while I was having a cigar in the garage, I was contemplating building an engine for my boat. While my engine has less than 550 hours on it and hopefully far from having a problem, it would be a fun project.
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  #24  
Old 09-22-2011, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by oldairboater View Post
It will not change ring and piston issues. It would be a quick easy check of the timing chain. Others have said do a leak down which is a good check. I would skip that if I find the timing near to correct. By pulling heads and intake I get a visual of the pistons, cylinder walls, and valves, and head gasket. Cracked heads and cylinder walls show up when exposed to air and moisture quickly once the oil is wiped off of them. No need to magnaflux. If engine has more issues then head gaskets it will show. If I had to pull the engine then I have lightened the block already. Any overhaul I would do would involve pulling the engine anyway. The choices I would be looking at is how much is salvageable. Just the way I have done things in the past a lot of times.
If it is a ring and piston issue the timing would be the same. I think you are saying that if the chain has jump a tooth the rotor not pointing at number 1 would show this?

Who knows if the last guy that did the timing didn't point it a 12 oclock or at the wrong cylinder? The rotor pointing at some place other then number 1 doesn't really prove or disprove anything.
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  #25  
Old 09-22-2011, 06:31 PM
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Yeah even tho this sucks...I'm get'n excited to get in there and see what happened.never done a big project like thisbut have friends that are gear heads and worked in race shops so there willing to help out. Headed to auto zone to get a leak down tester.thanks for all the advice and reply
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  #26  
Old 09-22-2011, 06:42 PM
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So put the piston at the very top of the stroke to do the leak down test?? I apologize in advance for dumb questions
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  #27  
Old 09-22-2011, 08:07 PM
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Top of the compression stroke. top of the exhaust stroke wouldn't work so well.
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  #28  
Old 09-22-2011, 08:51 PM
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how to...
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...r/viewall.html
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  #29  
Old 09-22-2011, 11:44 PM
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Well did the leak test.put in about 30 psi and had air hissing out the dip stick.
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  #30  
Old 09-22-2011, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOO-TALL View Post
Well did the leak test.put in about 30 psi and had air hissing out the dip stick.
Not a good outcome. Which cylinders?
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