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  #121  
Old 11-17-2012, 10:28 PM
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Great thread, thank you for sharing. A few questions.

Did you replace the thermostat? I might have missed that reading ...

Did you test the over heating alarm on the rebuild? Make sure it sounds off.

Finally, what shape are the hoses in? Could it be that one of them collapsed ?
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  #122  
Old 11-18-2012, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by TOO-TALL View Post
update.......

put on 115 hrs this season on the rebuilt motor.So far so good.
Good to know all is good...ran like new when I went out with you...
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  #123  
Old 11-18-2012, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KahunaCraft View Post
Great thread, thank you for sharing. A few questions.

Did you replace the thermostat? I might have missed that reading ...

Did you test the over heating alarm on the rebuild? Make sure it sounds off.

Finally, what shape are the hoses in? Could it be that one of them collapsed ?

Thermostat...yes it is a new oem.

Alarm.....I don't know how to test it.if someone has a idea on how to test please let me know,It would be a good idea to test it.

Hoses...all looked good.
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  #124  
Old 11-18-2012, 05:00 PM
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The hoses will look fine, it is when you squeeze them, the will feel softer. For the cost, I'd suggest replacing the hoses over the winter or planning to do that at some point.

As for the alarm, a few components to test:

1. the temp sensor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFHWpgHMAvY&sns=em

Also by the sounds of it, it seems to be working. Just wanted to be certain the same problem doesn't hit you twice. Remember the other environmental conditions in the cold fall are different than warm summer. Ie incoming water, air temp and your new water pump is working now.

2. The alarm buzzer. If it's the same one the rings when the ignition is on...pretty easy to test it.

3. The wiring between the sensor and the buzzer. A meter would help do that.

I'd just pull the temp sensor out of the engine, leave it plugged into the wiring harness and use a heat gun or soldering iron to heat the sensor, like the boiling water does in the video, while the ignition was on but the boat is not running. CAUTION: it sound like there is fuel from the leaky injector, so don't use a torch to heat the sensor (not saying you would). See if the temp gauge and alarm buzzer notice the heat and start making noise and at what temp.

I'd also look into whether or not a lower threshold temp sensor can be bought, to start the buzz at 185, not 200, for early warning. Many things get worn out fast with too much heat. I'd want to review the owners manual and look up the service intervals for a new motor and repeat that process with your new motor. I think 20hrs you should change oil and every 100 after that.

Above is just what I'd try, chances are, there may be a much easer way, I didn't dig too far on google.
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  #125  
Old 11-18-2012, 11:41 PM
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KahunaCraft,


Cool read and thanks this will give me things to do over the winter.

The leaking injector was replaced.
I have a spare temp senser I can plug into the wiring harness.Then use a temp gun to heat up the senser this will atleast tell me if the alarm is working in the dash.
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  #126  
Old 11-22-2012, 10:11 AM
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one final note, I saw this picture of the inside of the cooling hoses ...

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8

That's what I meant by soft hoses that collapse.
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  #127  
Old 11-22-2012, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KahunaCraft View Post
one final note, I saw this picture of the inside of the cooling hoses ...

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8

That's what I meant by soft hoses that collapse.
CLoaked's hose picture surfaces again!!! yes!!!!!
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  #128  
Old 11-22-2012, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KahunaCraft View Post
one final note, I saw this picture of the inside of the cooling hoses ...

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8

That's what I meant by soft hoses that collapse.
That looks like an exhaust hose and the damage inside looks like it overheated, badly. That's about the only reason these go bad although if left long enough, an impeller that's not supplying enough water will do the same thing when the engine is run at high RPM.

That's just one of the other things that causes problems when someone leaves "an old impeller that looks good", but isn't.

To those people who want to recommend using an impeller for more than a year, save it- you're giving out bad information, based on your own experience of owning one, or a few boats of this type. If you want to do this with your own boat, that's fine but without seeing what's going on with someone else' boat, it's bad advice.
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