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Old 01-08-2018, 08:38 PM
skymonkey skymonkey is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Boat: 2000 MariStar 210 VRS EFI
Location: Southcentral
Posts: 13
Bringing a 2000 MariStar 210 VRS EFI back to life

I just acquired a 2000 MariStar 210 VRS that has been siting of a lift for, we think, 4yrs. I'm new to the whole MC line and V-drive boats. Any tips, hints, tricks, or things to look for would be most appreciated. I've included a pic I took of her yesterday. I'm a technician by trade so I'll be doing most of my own work, so feel free to share away. Thanks in advance for anything
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  #2  
Old 01-08-2018, 08:57 PM
Tsumi Tsumi is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Boat: 2001 X-star 5.7L LTR, 2000 Prostar 190 5.7L LTR, both dark green
Location: Pacific
Posts: 720
Upholstery will be a big thing on that year, as it will wear out quickly if exposed and not taken care of. 2000 to approximately 2003 was the year of low quality vinyl due to new EPA regulations.

Otherwise, for the most part it is your standard GM 350 engine. Take it out, run around, make sure the gauges are reading properly. This year uses the MMDC gauges, which can be expensive and a hassle to replace. Check to make sure there is no water in the engine or transmission after running it. The vent for the transmission is low and susceptible to water intrusion. Otherwise, not much to look out for other than the usual, check fiberglass, etc.
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Old 01-08-2018, 09:17 PM
skymonkey skymonkey is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Boat: 2000 MariStar 210 VRS EFI
Location: Southcentral
Posts: 13
Good to know about the upholstery. I knew the back deck for sure, but I'll definitely look the rest over real good. Is there nothing to the "winterization" of these drivetrains?
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Old 01-08-2018, 10:32 PM
Tsumi Tsumi is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Boat: 2001 X-star 5.7L LTR, 2000 Prostar 190 5.7L LTR, both dark green
Location: Pacific
Posts: 720
Winterization involves putting RV (pink) antifreeze anywhere water would go. You would know if your engine block was cracked by the presence of water in the oil. Generally, winterization is done only if the boat will experience freezing temperatures. There are tons of writeups on how to do it, and is generally the same for most years.
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Old 01-08-2018, 10:55 PM
skymonkey skymonkey is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Boat: 2000 MariStar 210 VRS EFI
Location: Southcentral
Posts: 13
I'm doubting he did anything to the engine. It looks like they just walked away. Everything is still in the boat. How about prop shaft seals, and what kind of fluid does the transmission take?
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Old 01-09-2018, 12:39 AM
Tsumi Tsumi is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Boat: 2001 X-star 5.7L LTR, 2000 Prostar 190 5.7L LTR, both dark green
Location: Pacific
Posts: 720
What kind of weather did it see while sitting outside? In particular, what are winters like?

Shaft seal is goretex or teflon. It is designed to leak while running, approximately a drip every second while idling in gear. If it leaks more than that, tighten the nut. Less, and you might want to loosen it.

Transmission is regular Dexron III ATF or 15w-40.
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Old 01-09-2018, 01:21 AM
skymonkey skymonkey is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Boat: 2000 MariStar 210 VRS EFI
Location: Southcentral
Posts: 13
We just went through a real cold snap. It was below freezing for a week. Got as low as 6 a few nights. Good to know about the shaft seal.
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Old 01-09-2018, 01:23 AM
skymonkey skymonkey is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Boat: 2000 MariStar 210 VRS EFI
Location: Southcentral
Posts: 13
Is this an Indmar engine?
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  #9  
Old 01-09-2018, 04:28 AM
Tsumi Tsumi is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Boat: 2001 X-star 5.7L LTR, 2000 Prostar 190 5.7L LTR, both dark green
Location: Pacific
Posts: 720
There is a very good chance you are going to have to replace the block, unless the previous owner put antifreeze in it. Typically the rule is 20 degrees F for 20 hours before a cracked block. You are well below that threshold.

Take a picture of the engine and we can tell you which one it is. In any case, you are probably going to have to replace it.
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2018, 08:59 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Boat: Maristar 200VRS w/ X2 Package, 2007, 310HP
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 3,522
If you're saying it's been sitting for 4 years without being winterized or stored properly I hope you got it for close to nothing. Quite some time ago I bought a boat that had been sitting for 3 years and the engine was near toast. Most likely issues with a walk away over a 4 year period would be....

Engine

If it was not store properly (block drained, cylinders fogged, externally fogged) and you live in an area where the temps went below 20 degrees for any extended period of time the block and manifolds are going to be cracked. If the engine wasn't fogged then there's a good chance the rings are now one with the cylinder walls, which is what happened to the boat I bought. I got lucky and was able to free them up but your mileage may vary. Michigan Motorz has new long blocks going for roughly $3K. It'll be another $600 for the exhaust manifolds without risers which hopefully you'll be able to reuse. Hopefully the drain plug was left out so the bilge could drain but even if it was there's a good chance you're going to have corrosion issues with the electrical with starter and alternator being the first two places I be inspecting closely when I had the engine out. So with these basic items for repair estimate lets go with $4500 with you doing all the work yourself.

Interior

Big boat with sun lounger and open bow means lots of vinyl and labor. To put a first rate interior in the boat you're looking at anywhere between $4500 and $6000. Let's go conservative and say $4500 on this.

Trailer

I thinking if the boat looks like this then the trailer is sitting in a field somewhere. You'll need tires at a minimum and I'll bet a case of Miller Lite the brakes are going to need a full rebuild at a minimum. While you have them apart you might as well do the bearings. Hopefully the rest of the trailer isn't rusted. I'm thinking here you'll probably be in for another $700 but lets call it $1000 to keep everything in round numbers.

Hull

Hull seems to be dirty but fairly straight, but they always do in pictures. Assuming no deep scratches and all you need is a cut and buff materials should be no more than a couple hundred dollars. Let's lump all this in with misc materials for another $500.

So where did we end up?
Engine $4500
Interior $4500
Trailer $1000
Misc $500
Total $10,500


If you bought her right there should be plenty of room to flip it or have a great boat that you won't be upside down on.

As to next steps..... If it were mine I'd start by getting the trailer safe to use then tow the boat back to the ramp and get the boat somewhere you can comfortably work on the boat. Once you have it inside you can do a through assessment of the boat and decide where you want to start.

Looks like a great project. Good luck!
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