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Old 06-14-2011, 08:27 PM
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Brian B Brian B is offline
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Cutting into walkway glass? (Subwoofer port)

I'm seriously considering cutting a "slot like" port into the port side glass where the walkway is to port my subwoofer into the cab area. Before you get excited, I will have it professionally done, and will wrap the edges in matching vinyl for a stockish look.

What I'm concerned about is the integrity of the hull and wondering if I'll compromise any structural strength by doing this......
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:56 PM
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I didn't know there was such a profession as "Professional Stereo Installer." Lol

I assumed they all just slapped it in making holes wherever they pleased, and splicing into any wire close by...
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariStar-Man View Post
I didn't know there was such a profession as "Professional Stereo Installer." Lol

I assumed they all just slapped it in making holes wherever they pleased, and splicing into any wire close by...
I dont even know where to begin and will kindly not respond. Thanks for your input though.
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:42 PM
Gabe63 Gabe63 is offline
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I am not sure a professional stereo installer knows much about compromising the hull. I have seen speakers cut into these areas though. Am I an engineer and can I say if it would compromise the hull???

I would hate to see you do it and find out the port did little to help with base. Is the boat a beater? I would not do it on a boat with value.
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:18 PM
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Not a beater at all. In fact, its cherry. 01 x10, 140 hours. Thats why I'm willing to spend the money with someone who specializes in glass/boat work......

I have also seen it done where most of the glass was cut away on an XStar. And I'm 100% positive that it will help with the sound. It sounds perfect with the observers seat open.........
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:21 PM
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There is a u shaped bracket in the wakeway that provides most of the torsional rigidity, but I still would not recommend doing this. Unless you plan on keeping the boat for the next 20yrs you will find that it will have a pretty negative affect on the resale value.
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Old 06-15-2011, 02:56 AM
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Why not spend the $ on a better sub/amp instead?
I have a single Boston 12" sealed enclosure sub w/tuned radiator under the dash, no "port" into the boat and it is very loud.
I'd upgrade your sound system before cutting the boat. While I'm not an expert, there's alot of subs that are completely concealed, even down firing that sound great. Doesn't take an open air window too hear the sub.
You could get some good automotive components, sub and amp for probably $500 if you shopped carefully that would make the boat really thump.
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Old 06-15-2011, 08:01 AM
agarabaghi agarabaghi is offline
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x2 on better sub amp. Didn't you get some kicker sub / amp put in the ski locker? Why not get a small sealed box under the dash? Also how quiet is it? I have a JL 10" in the stock location running off 220w JL amp and it sounds perfect... Could be your tuning ...
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:17 AM
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Brian B,
I'll only address the acoustic side and what is actually occurring. A subwoofer concealed within a locker can easily lose 10 dB as compared to a direct radiating sub. That can be a 10 times power differential. That means you are driving the subwoofer and sub amplifier much harder. IMO, the subwoofer system that always sounds the best is by far the one that is operated most conservatively. Some will compensate for the losses by using far more leverage in the way of larger subs and more power. You are still consuming alot more current. Acoustically, that works to a degree. You can still get lots of boom and rumble from within a sealed compartment but you definitely lose alot of the tonal construction in the way of midbass articulation and transient response. While you won't recover the entire 10 dB with a vent, it will make a substantial difference. Optimumly, you would like a smaller locker and a larger vent. There is less impetus for the bass radiation to exit from a large and compliant air space through a tiny opening. So, you would like to have a vent that at least approximates the total radiating surface area of the woofer and bass-reflex port if applicable. Its still not a free ride with a vent. The large locker and adjoining cavities constitute a major and separate air mass that is very compliant thus stores and releases acoustic energy with a different phase response from the woofer itself. So the reflected energy from the locker and the energy direct from the woofer do not exactly arrive at the vent in phase. This in itself creates losses and creates an uneven frequency response as various frequencies are either passed or filtered differently. But the lesser of the two evils by far is using a vent to freely pass the bass radiation.
In some cases a good route would be to couple the woofer/enclosure directly through the wall. For example, in a bench seating console you would sandwich the wall between the woofer and sealed enclosure. It would appear to be a factory-like infinite baffle sub.

David
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Old 06-15-2011, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariStar-Man View Post
I didn't know there was such a profession as "Professional Stereo Installer." Lol

I assumed they all just slapped it in making holes wherever they pleased, and splicing into any wire close by...
That's how the "professional installers" the PO hired to install the stereo upgrades he purchased did it. They did such a professional job that they put all 4 Wet Sounds tower speakers on the same channel. Took me close to a week to fix their "professional" installation.
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