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Old 08-11-2011, 06:51 PM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
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Join Date: May 2010
Boat: 2000 230 VRS
Location: Southeast
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Bad crack in my teak platform

'00 MariStar 230 VRS with the "louvered" style teak platform (i.e. all of the planks aren't butted up against each other).

I had a pretty substantial crack (8" or so) show up right in the middle of my platform. It's all the way through the lower piece and partway through the top piece on the outside edge. There are no signs of impact and I believe that it's too large and across two separate pieces to be due to it drying out. So I guess it's just a combination of age and person weight on top of it.

Not sure if it could be a factor but I remove it and stand it up against the wall in the garage when the boat is parked due to the lack of clearance at the rear of the boat.

Anyway, I think I'm just going to screw a steel mending plate on the bottom to get me through the rest of the season or at least until I'm more motivated to deal with it.

The good news is that I have a table saw, some decent wood working skills and access to a router. So, I figured I could pick up a piece of teak, rip it into 2 pieces and cut the profile using the old pieces as a pattern with the router. Am I on the right track with the permanent repair here? How hard will it be to remove the glued together components without damaging the good wood? What's an appropriate adhesive when reassembling? I've done some googling and it seems like the consensus is that due to the oil content of the wood your only option is marine epoxy and SS screws.

Is a teak deck board from Home Depot/Lowe's acceptable? I've read in other threads about adding a "transom saver" strip of teak on top of the platform and that's what some people did. I will likely do the transom saver at the same time.

In the attached pic ignore the stuff in the background. I rotated the pic so that the platform is oriented as it would normally be on the boat.
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Last edited by Jeff d; 08-11-2011 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 08-11-2011, 10:45 PM
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I had a similar crack in my platform. The PO used stainless steel screws to repair it. I eventually removed the screws and drilled it for hardwood dowels. I used epoxy resin. When finished I sanded everything down. You can still see the round shapes where the dowels are located and you can identify where the crack was repaired, but the screws are not sticking out like frankenstein.
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:30 PM
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CantRepeat CantRepeat is offline
Join Date: Jul 2008
Boat: No Boat
Location: Roll Tide!!
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Try teak world for wood.


"Heavy" beer is for wine drinkers that are too embarrassed to drink wine in front of their buddies. "Light" beer is a drinkin' man's beer!

Last edited by CantRepeat; 08-11-2011 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:41 AM
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Hammer Hammer is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Boat: '07 X45 LY6
Location: South Central Raleigh, NC
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I broke the front corner off my platform and repaired it with gorilla glue. Cleaned the area with accetone first to remove the oils and it has been holding great for 8 years. No screws or nails. If you didn't know it was there you just about can't see it at all.

You look like I need a beer!
2001 Prostar 195 Sold
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Old 08-12-2011, 02:50 PM
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190 Skier 190 Skier is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Boat: MasterCraft, PS 190, 1990, 351 windsor
Location: Northern CA
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I had the same crack in mine. I used marine epoxy in the crack and "C" clamps to close it up. After it cured, sanded and oiled it and it has worked well for 10 years. You can see the faint line of the cack if you look for it closely.
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