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Old 06-06-2011, 09:43 PM
JeromeM JeromeM is offline
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Boat: Prostar 205 SD, 1999, 330hp
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Heater wiring question - Pics inside

In my 99 PS 205 I have a heater, I never tried to use it last year but this year I thought I would use it since I have it.

Yesterday I opened the tap on the engine, starter her up and right away there was water leaking at the heater core (I have my kick panel out since I'm in the middle of a stereo install) so I shut things off and closed the tap.

Tonight I go to look into it further, I took the heater core out and will be inspecting that tomorrow with respect to the leak but here is what I found for the blower, is this normal? There are 2 red wires that are tapped into a "low" and a "high" wire from factory, there's a ground then the yellow wire goes to nothing.

When I use the Acc 3 switch which is the 3 position switch on my boat, the fan doesn't work at all. I know on a Car/Marine audio deck the yellow is fused 12V constant, would the same apply here?







Thanks for the help!

Jay
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:26 PM
j.mccreight@hotmail.com's Avatar
j.mccreight@hotmail.com j.mccreight@hotmail.com is online now
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Boat: 1989 MasterCraft TriStar 190 SE
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I dont think the blower would have 2 power supplies, looks like they rewired it for a 2 position fan speed so thats why 3 doesn't do anything, is there a fan resistor anywhere? For this install they probably just left the yellow open, we would need to get a factory wiring diagram to verify...
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1989 MasterCraft TriStar 190 SE

Last edited by j.mccreight@hotmail.com; 06-06-2011 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:28 PM
JeromeM JeromeM is offline
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I will look further up the wires tomorrow to see if I can find a resistor. There was nothing happening at all when I tried the switch so maybe a breaker or something.
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:21 AM
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Table Rocker Table Rocker is offline
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The resistor could be inside the electric motor. Test the motor on a battery by putting the black on (-) and the red on (+) and see what happens.
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:06 AM
mdskier mdskier is offline
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I don't know about resister, but there should be fuse. I have a 99 Maristar and only have an on/off switch for the heater (ACC 2). So I only wired the orange lead and the black lead. According to Heatercraft, the black is ground, the orange is high speed, the red is medium speed and yellow is low speed. It looks like you should have off/high/med.

My fan did not work but had no heater core leaks. I replaced the blower with a replacement from Heatercraft.

Their installation instructions are here -
http://www.heatercraft.com/images/Do...tal_Marine.pdf
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:45 AM
JeromeM JeromeM is offline
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Thanks for the advice, I will test it tonight when I get home. I assume if the core leaks + the blower is shot, I basically need to buy a new kit?

Any chance there's an automotive blower that matches this one? I've seen the threads about the possible automotive heater core options but not blowers.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:07 PM
JeromeM JeromeM is offline
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ok, tonight I looked at it and the breaker was tripped so i reset it. I then tried the switch, on position 1 and 2 and blower still didn't work. I then tried to turn the blower by hand and couldn't for the life of me turn it :S so I'm guessing it needs to be replaced also.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:23 PM
mdskier mdskier is offline
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yeah, that's what was wrong with mine. motor seized up. Like $150 from Heatercraft.
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  #9  
Old 06-07-2011, 11:27 PM
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wheelerd wheelerd is offline
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I just installed the exact same Heatercraft unit on my boat. The wiring colors are as mdskier indicated. I have the two position ACC switch so I wired in the high and low speeds.
If your blower fan is seized that explains why the breaker would have tripped. You may be able to free it with a couple of shots of WD40 and some gentle pressure back and forth but it may only be a short term fix.
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  #10  
Old 06-07-2011, 11:30 PM
JeromeM JeromeM is offline
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Thanks, you guys are likely right, since my heater core is also shot, this isn't going to be cheap
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