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Old 04-12-2011, 04:49 PM
gotta_ski gotta_ski is offline
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Boat: 1998 Prostar 190 LT-1
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LT-1 and Perfect Pass Install

All,
I can't thank you all enough for everything I've learned on here. This forum is one of the best parts of Mastercraft ownership.

Now to my problem: I bought a Perfect Pass system for my boat (1998 Prostar 190, LT-1 engine) and I'm having trouble finding a good location to mount the servo motor that controls the throttle. In a typical installation it mounts to the starboard exhaust manifold water feed, but in the LT-1 the line is significantly lower. Every way I've tried mounting it seems like it will make the cable bind.

What I'm hoping for is someone with an LT-1 and perfect pass can post a pic of where they mounted the servo. Doesn't have to be all that detailed or high quality, just need to see what hose its on and the rough angle.

Thanks in advance,
Kevin
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  #2  
Old 04-12-2011, 04:59 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Boat: 1998 Ski Nautique
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Can you mount the servo in the typical location and then rotate it up or down on around the hose so that the cable is higher or lower (hard to tell from your description which part is lower)? This will give you a little bit of play in the height of the throttle cable from the servo and hopefully even it out. Alternatively, is there a way to adjust the height of the throttle cable? I upgraded the exhaust manifold on my old MC and had to use a bracket to even out the throttle cable height to keep it from binding.
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  #3  
Old 04-12-2011, 07:25 PM
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JLeuck64 JLeuck64 is offline
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Boat: 98 Prostar 190 Stars & Stripes, LT1
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Here ya go. Never had an issue with the cable routed this way. Worked well despite looking like it was kinked a little bit.

I always had more issues with the electrical side of PP and also got sick and tired of the display falling off the bracket all the time so I don't use it any longer...
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Need LT-1 parts?
OIL FILTER: Factory installed is a Penzoil P23, Afta market brands, AC Delco PF-454 and a Fram PH-13 or PH-30 will work.
SPARK PLUGS: AC Delco MR43LTS (gapped to .040")
FUEL FILTERS: AC Delco 25171391 (pump inlet side)
89058397 (pump outlet side)
IGNITION WIRES: Call Inboard Online @ (877) 327-7175 and order part numbers 556010A (odd bank) and 556010B (even bank)
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Old 04-13-2011, 03:43 AM
gotta_ski gotta_ski is offline
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Boat: 1998 Prostar 190 LT-1
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Thank you JLeuck. I knew I could count on the community here. That looks like it should work fine. I didn't try it that close to the manifold. While we're at it, does anyone else have any other mounting locations for the servo, or is this pretty much the conventional wisdom?

Also, I love that anniversary edition blue LT-1. Its gorgeous.

Totally off topic, but it looks like your head bleeder line is on the front and it looks factory. My 98' had it on the back. From what I've read I thought that they knew a few years before that it didn't work very well letting the air out of the head when it was on the back. Most of the others seem to have them on the front by then. Mine seems to be a strange one. Just thought that was odd.

Last edited by gotta_ski; 04-13-2011 at 03:48 AM.
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  #5  
Old 04-13-2011, 09:33 AM
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JLeuck64 JLeuck64 is offline
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Boat: 98 Prostar 190 Stars & Stripes, LT1
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There are some thread tools at the bottom of each page that will let you expand the number of threads you can view. So if You start from the engine/drivetrain menu and expand it to show everything for the previous year there should be a few threads about LT -1's overheating. Some of those will reference moving your lines to the front of the risers and cylinder heads. Good reading for sure!
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http://www.mastercraft.com/photopost...er=2572&sort=1
Need LT-1 parts?
OIL FILTER: Factory installed is a Penzoil P23, Afta market brands, AC Delco PF-454 and a Fram PH-13 or PH-30 will work.
SPARK PLUGS: AC Delco MR43LTS (gapped to .040")
FUEL FILTERS: AC Delco 25171391 (pump inlet side)
89058397 (pump outlet side)
IGNITION WIRES: Call Inboard Online @ (877) 327-7175 and order part numbers 556010A (odd bank) and 556010B (even bank)
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  #6  
Old 04-13-2011, 11:06 AM
Jorski Jorski is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 1993 190 with LT1
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,198
About the crossover/bleeders; they should be on the front.

Here is a thread detailing that:

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/show...highlight=lt-1

The strange thing is that this problem was mostly on the ealiest LT-1 engines late 1993-early 1994 production...your's seems very late for this.

Anyhow, good luck! You have a great engine!
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  #7  
Old 04-13-2011, 06:47 PM
gotta_ski gotta_ski is offline
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Boat: 1998 Prostar 190 LT-1
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I guess I left out that I found those threads in the fall and moved the bleeder line to the front over the winter. Good looking out though. Thanks again guys.
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  #8  
Old 04-13-2011, 07:34 PM
Eddie Dodge Eddie Dodge is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: 1996 ProStar 190 Tour, LT1, Powerslot, Safety Top, Bimini, Boom
Location: Crossett Arkansas
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I had the exact same problem on my install. I was not at all satisfied with the hose mount system. I built a stainless mount that attaches to the engine head. I then made a slide for the cable because I also did not like the way that was designed. This is an old picture, and if you need more info, I would be glad to help.

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  #9  
Old 04-13-2011, 11:36 PM
gotta_ski gotta_ski is offline
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Boat: 1998 Prostar 190 LT-1
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You are the man, Eddie. Your install is what I was hoping to find. Can you take some pics of the mount you made? What is the slide you're talking about? I'm guessing it's the copper-colored thing. It looks like it has some sort of bent rod holding it up? Is this to control the radius of the bend in the cable to make it a smooth curve?
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  #10  
Old 04-14-2011, 04:06 AM
Eddie Dodge Eddie Dodge is offline
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Boat: 1996 ProStar 190 Tour, LT1, Powerslot, Safety Top, Bimini, Boom
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I am working long hrs and it will be Friday evening before I will have time to take some more pictures. On the slide, I did not like the way that the cable was just hanging with nothing to support it. I used a piece of tig wire and copper tubing. I split the tubing and installed over the cable. I squeezed it back together. I then bent the tubing to match the natural curve of the cable. It just rest of the tig wire and slides back in forth with the cable movement while supporting the cable.
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