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#11
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I actually store mine with the rear hatch open about 3-4" to keep the engine compartment ventilated. So, it failed with it open enough that I could get in there and pull the pin.
Maristar Man had an interesting setup with a strap that could pull the pin in the event of an actuator failure in the closed position in one of his other posts. |
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#12
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Thanks for the pictures. I'm strongly considering going that route. I would convert it to 3 piece in and ideal world but that would be a lot more involved. |
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#13
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Thanks, Jeff |
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#14
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Here's the Emergency strap I made...
I used some of the extra webbing I had left over for the Bimini. I wanted to make a simple, works-every-time, release in case of emergency.
After measuring, I sewed both sides of the straps and burned the ends. Yes my sewing skills are fleating...lol! ![]() In the middle of the strap I have about 2" doubled over and sewn with one thread. This will break when pulled and give me the extra length to pull the end of the strap which is sewn into sunpad edge. ![]() Here is the Strap, which i can access by cutting a few threads... I have subsequently colored the white thread black. ![]() I have more webbing available if anyone wants some... PM me I do however, like the sun-pad latches I have seen on this thread. It does take too long when on the water and people want to get into the cooler back there...
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1999 MasterCraft Maristar, V210, 330 Hp LTR Mods: Upgraded Stereo, Amp, 6 Disk Changer, Zero-Flex Tower, Custom Fit Bimini Top, and of course...Teak Oil! Last edited by MariStar-Man; 11-30-2010 at 08:08 PM. |
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#15
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KDR, are the pics you're posting from your '99 205V that you have listed in you profile? Do you know if that was the factory setup?
I found this on mymastercraft: http://mymastercraft.com/product_det...oduct=Brackets It's described as "LATCH SUNDECK KEEPER PS 205V 99". I emailed them for further clarification on what the part is but it sounds promising. Aside from reliability and speed removing the actuator would make access to the port side of the engine much easier too. I avoid messing with that side whenever possible because I have to find something to prop the deck up with and remove my actuator to flip down that partition. It will also be better when I get larger ballast bags back there because I won't have to worry about them rubbing on the actuator. With the exception of the "bling" factor when I take n00bs out on my boat the only other advantage I can think of is that it's easy to open it partially for storage. I'd have to setup a strap to hold it at about 3" open. |
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#16
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I'm pretty sure that my setup is factory. There are no holes in the floor or underside of the sundeck where the actuator would mount to.
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__________ Kirk 1994 Prostar 205 1999 Prostar 205V |
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#17
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interesting post jeff d. watching to see what happens. may need to consider for our Maristar.
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#18
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Hopefully MyMastercraft can help me figure out which parts I need to duplicate your latch setup. It looks like the worst case for the latch is about $50. The gas shocks and mounting hardware for one side should be less than $50 also. If I go this route I'll be sure to post part numbers here once I get everything straight. |
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#19
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Jeff-
I had this happen to me last year. I got lucky and found one on ebay and took a chance for $100 - the model numbers were different but it turned out to be the exact same actuator. Look on ebay at linear actuators - there are a bunch out there. Once I got the new one, we dismantled and lubed up the old one and it now also works fine (so that may work for yours...). With respect to how you get it open, I removed the battery and got my head and one arm through the hole behind the battery with a rod and wedged the pin out that way (trip to the chiropractor). PITA but got er done. If it would help, I can try to climb in the boat later and take a pic of the specs on the new one - I think it had a plate on it. Where are you located in the SE? I also have 00 230v - on Lake Sinclair, GA. Hope this helps, Craig |
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#20
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BUMP
Jeff d, did you ever complete this project? |
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