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  #1  
Old 07-05-2005, 01:18 PM
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Trailer Tire Rubs

On my 94 MC trailer one tire seems to stick out a little further than the other side. It it not bad, but it is noticeable. The good side is nicely tucked up under the fender and the bad side sticks out about 1/2 to 3/4 inch past the edge of the fender. This is no big deal except when I hit a big pothole at about 35-40 mph I do see a small "puff" of smoke from the tire hitting the fender. Another concern is when I go on vacation I usaully have some luggage and golf clubs in the boat and I think will make the problem worse. Here are my choices as I see it:

1. Install new springs, The spings are 11 years old and I would think they have some sag to them by now. Even one extra inch of lift would help alot.

2. Install 1 or 2 inch lifting blocks between the axle and spings for some extra lift and clearence.

3. Loosen the axle and move it over about 3/4 of an inch. I am not sure if the can be done because of the bolt/pins that go through the springs into the axle for alinement.

4. Try to redrill and move the fender on the bad side to move it out further

Has anyone ever had this problem? How did you deal with it?
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  #2  
Old 07-05-2005, 01:26 PM
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Evan Jones Evan Jones is offline
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The axle may have just slipped sideways on the leaf springs. If the U-bolts are loose, and the centering pin is worn out, you may be able to slide it back into place and be good to go.
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  #3  
Old 07-05-2005, 01:51 PM
robisjo robisjo is offline
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Are the tires the same size? Perhaps the one side is wider than the other causing it to rub on the fender. I had this problem with my previous trailer. I went to replace the tires and realized that the prior owner had put wider tires on the trailer.
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  #4  
Old 07-05-2005, 01:54 PM
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Tires are the same size 215/75/14.
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  #5  
Old 07-05-2005, 02:49 PM
causewayskiier causewayskiier is offline
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I had the same problem. I solved it by replacing the springs and putting lifting blocks between the axle and springs. This solved several problems for me. It kept the tire from hitting the wheelwell. 2. It prevented the spare tire from scraping on low spots. 3. and prevented the prop guard from scraping when I pulled out of my dryway. The trailor doesn't look quite as good jacked up like that but it was well worth it to prevent all that scraping.
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  #6  
Old 07-05-2005, 02:57 PM
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Why both blocks and new springs? Would the spings alone have lifted the trailer a little?
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  #7  
Old 07-06-2005, 12:49 AM
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Crash Crash is offline
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Obviously you're not the only one with this issue...me too...reading the replies closely, keep them commng.
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  #8  
Old 07-06-2005, 10:26 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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I recall someone getting some replacement springs from Rambo Marine some time ago. You might give them a call. I put a 2" lift on my trailer last year for prop guard clearance reasons. I've had no problems launching and could probably get some 15" rims under there with no problems.
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  #9  
Old 07-13-2005, 07:45 AM
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When you install lifting bolcks is it as easy as looseing the u bolts and sliding in some kind of spacer or do you have to have the spacer welded in place?

What about the centering pin? was it long enough to go through the new lifting block?
I am thinking about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch lift, this can be done with the existing u bolts and should fix my problem. I just have to find a place to buy the material to use for the lifting blocks.
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  #10  
Old 07-13-2005, 07:58 AM
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I had that same problem. I did raise my fender with ¼” spacers but was afraid I would still hit on big dips. After that I added
¾
lift blocks, (and it is that easy) . I cut the ¾ stock into 2”x3” pcs. I did make them with “pins” in them by drilling all of the way through the center tapping and running a short, hardened bolt in, (the head was the “pin”) then enlarging the hole in opposite side (the side that I didn’t run the bolt in from). The purpose of the larger hole is to receive the existing pin..


Hope at least some of that made sense

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Last edited by MarkP; 07-13-2005 at 09:00 AM.
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