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Old 06-01-2010, 11:26 PM
otisco
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Fuel Sender - 1995 Prostar 190

Has anyone tried to replace the fuel sender without moving the tank? I wonder if it is possible to remove the ski rope connection on the transom. Any suggestions or expereince would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:09 PM
tomwilli2025 tomwilli2025 is offline
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I was unsuccessful trying this on a 1996 Prostar 190. The tank had to come out! It took me about 2.5 hours total to do the job. Unfortunately, the replacement of the sender did not fix my problem. The gauge still reads full. I tried crossing over the red and black wire but no luck. I need to call skidim for some help. Mine is the two wire sender. I'm at a loss on what to try next.
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Old 06-10-2010, 01:15 PM
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heypops heypops is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft, prostar, 190, 1994, Indmar
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Just replaced my fuel tank sending unit on my Prostar 190, 1994. Piece of cake !!!
Took out the back seat, removed the rear petition and unscrewed the screws holding the tank (2 upper brackets and 2 lower brackets), rotated the tank out slightly. Removed old tube unit and replaced with new one (from Skidim). Pliced the wires together to the old harness. Viola' !!!

works great. Give Vince or Richard a call at Skidim for some excellent advice and the part that fits.

George P. Burdell
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Old 06-10-2010, 01:35 PM
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helton333 helton333 is offline
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on my 89, had to pull the tank - to ensure it is tight and gaskets are placed properly. I like the newer, reed style units. I wouldn't recommend the ones that you have to manually cut - cheap and just less durable.
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  #5  
Old 06-10-2010, 01:46 PM
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Sodar Sodar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otisco View Post
Has anyone tried to replace the fuel sender without moving the tank? I wonder if it is possible to remove the ski rope connection on the transom. Any suggestions or expereince would be appreciated.

Thanks
I had the same hope & idea, but it does not work. You have to yank the tank out to get the sender.
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  #6  
Old 06-10-2010, 02:27 PM
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AZDave AZDave is offline
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Yes the tank needs to come out. And if it is the first time there are a couple of items with the tank that I suggest you address at this time. 1st, drain the tank competely and remove any debris in the bottom/inspect. 2. remove the gasoline pickup tube. It has a small(1") hose connector on the bottom. Replace that, and inspect the screen. When that tube cracks you will have gas supply issues. (Mine did, and it was a cheap fix)< $1.) 3. Replace the foam insulation on the tank brackets with something more robust. (I used heater core hose). This will prevent the sharp metal of the brackets from digging into your tank. That being said, it will be nice to have a gas gauge again!
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  #7  
Old 09-02-2010, 04:04 PM
catch_9
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My 96 PS 190's fuel gauge pegs on full as soon as the key is turned on. Sounds like the problems above. How do I check the sending unit and/or the gauge so I don't replace a sending unit that might still be good?
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  #8  
Old 09-02-2010, 06:36 PM
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Chicago190 Chicago190 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catch_9 View Post
My 96 PS 190's fuel gauge pegs on full as soon as the key is turned on. Sounds like the problems above. How do I check the sending unit and/or the gauge so I don't replace a sending unit that might still be good?
The usual cause of this problem is the float inside the sending unit expands slightly and then gets stuck inside the sending unit. Alternatively, you can have the problem I had, which was the glue holding the magnet to the float can dissolve over time and then the magnet will get stuck at a certain position causing the fuel gauge to never move.

Both issues should be clear when you remove the fuel sending unit. If it is the float, it will be stuck inside of the metal tube in the sending unit. If it is the magnet, then it will not be attached to the float. The best solution is to replace the fuel sending unit with a new one. You can sand the float down so that it moves again, but this is usually a temporary solution. If the magnet has come unglued, then you can just re-glue it in place. Make sure that when you glue the magnet back that you install the magnets (there are 2 of them) in the float with the poles opposite each other. Otherwise you'll get intermittent readings from the gauge, which is the issue I currently have after I installed the magnets incorrectly last year.
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  #9  
Old 09-02-2010, 08:40 PM
jimmer2880 jimmer2880 is offline
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No, it does not need to come out. I did mine last year on my '95 PS190

I was able to remove the rear tow eye. I then made a template out of wood, using the backing plate for the eye as a pattern. Then, very carefully drilled a hole perfectly in the center of the tow eye template block of wood.

Now, you have a 1.5x thick block of wood with 4 holes in the corners, and a 1/4" hold directly in the middle of the circle.

Then, I found a hole saw exactly 1/4" (or - was it 1/8" - I can't remember) larger than the hole in the fiberglass.

Now, bolt the wood block to the under side of the tow-eye hole, using the 4 holes for mounting the tow eye.

Using the 1/4" hole in the middle as a guide, use the hole saw to slightly enlarge the hole in the fiberglass.

It worked like a charm, and wasn't nearly as hard to do as it sounds.
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  #10  
Old 09-03-2010, 08:45 PM
Skipper
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I just replaced my fuel sending unit in my'95 Prostar this morning. It took about an hour. I had to pull the combing pads off the back corners and remove the carpeted back wall in front of the tank. Then, I unscrewed the four clamps that hold the tank. I sprayed mineral oil on the fuel fill line fitting and fuel vent hose fitting to make it easier to remove them. Then I slid the tank out to access the sending unit. I swapped out sending units in about five minutes. Then put it all back together. Pretty simple process.
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