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  #251  
Old 06-26-2013, 04:34 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bturner2 View Post
Here we go again.......


Does this mean you are willing to help this guy or just be condescending?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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  #252  
Old 06-26-2013, 05:27 PM
Kweisner's Avatar
Kweisner Kweisner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTRGUY261 View Post
Thanks again for all of the time spent helping me out. I think I have everything I need on the way for this. Last question can I run a cranking battery as my start and a deep cycle for the house battery?
That is precisely what you should do! Also, consider this option as well--add a permanently mounted battery charger/maintainer on the house battery. I did so because at the end of the day my run back to the ramp is very short and doesn't provide enough time on the alternator to fully recharge the house batt. Once home, I just plug in to top off and then maintain a charge. I don't have the same worry for the start battery because it gets very little use and therefore needs little charge. Plus with the key in the ON position, both batteries are joined in parallel so the fully charged house batt is contributing during starting (I use the automatic relay method originally suggested by Diesel on this thread).
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Last edited by Kweisner; 06-26-2013 at 05:51 PM.
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  #253  
Old 06-27-2013, 01:21 AM
SILENTxNOISE's Avatar
SILENTxNOISE SILENTxNOISE is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Boat: 2006 Mastercraft X2 MCX w/ 07 Tower
Location: East TN
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Questions:

Will the factory terminal ends directly from the motor (currently connected to the start battery posts) have to be cut off to add a smaller connection to connect the positive to the Blue Sea switch and the negative to the ground bus?? I haven't located an illustration showing what needs to be done here.

Also, does the ground bus need to have the motor negative ran to it and then grounded to a different location (ex. run another ground from the bus back to the motor)? The illustrations are showing the motor negative connected to the ground bus, then the ground bus grounded to who knows where.

I'm not sure why this is confusing if these illustrations are so "simple".
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  #254  
Old 06-27-2013, 07:34 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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Boat: Maristar 200VRS w/ X2 Package, 2007, 310HP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
Does this mean you are willing to help this guy or just be condescending?
Didn't mean to hurt feelings, ruffle feathers or shatter dreams. Was just waiting for the opposing posts on batteries to start up again. Sort of like the RTP versus MCX posts.

There are a ton of really good posts on batteries and installations here. The search engine on this site actually works really well (I really mean that, no sarcasm intended). A search on Battery Installation came back with quite a few good reference posts like these.......

On Optima Batteries and are they any good.....

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...y+installation

Optima batteries - which one and what type to go with.....

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...y+installation

My dual battery installation thread.....

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...y+installation

Thralls battery installation thread (a lot of good information in here)....

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...y+installation

Thread on grounding. JimN explains in detail about grounding and references site that provides great detail on the subject....

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...y+installation

This is just on the first two pages. Hope these help a bit more than my original post.....

Last edited by bturner2; 06-27-2013 at 08:04 AM.
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  #255  
Old 06-27-2013, 12:40 PM
LTRGUY261 LTRGUY261 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Boat: Centurion, Elite V C4, 2006 5.7L
Location: Pacific Northwest
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Thanks for all the advice Cloaked and Bturner2, I really appreciate it.
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  #256  
Old 06-27-2013, 02:54 PM
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SILENTxNOISE SILENTxNOISE is offline
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Ok, I guess I could ask this more simply..

Is it required to run NEW pos and neg cables from the motor to the blue sea switch and ground bus?
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  #257  
Old 06-28-2013, 06:57 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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If your amperage draw or cable run isn't changing then there should be no need to swap anything out. I didn't install new but I did end up cutting the ends off, adjusted cable lengths and soldered new ends on to clean up the existing sloppy installation. I also purchased new marine grade cable and made all the cables to connect the battery grounds and connections to the bus bars and battery/switch/isolator connections.

Making the cables and installing new cable connectors is really pretty easy with a torch and some solder. The only ones that made me nervous were the ones I had to do in the boat. For those I covered all the surrounding areas with wet towels to protect against any chance of getting something too hot with the torch.

As far as installing a switch to the solution..... I like having the switch. I don't get out to my boat everyday and it sits on a Shorestation at my brother in laws house about 20 miles away. As part of our departure routine we always turn off the power. That way I'm sure nothing was left on and it also provides a little more theft security (one more thing for someone to figure out before driving off with the boat).

Last edited by bturner2; 06-28-2013 at 07:11 AM.
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  #258  
Old 06-28-2013, 03:19 PM
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SILENTxNOISE SILENTxNOISE is offline
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Thanks, bturner2! I was thinking of making my own cables as well, but from a quick google search, the crimper for a 2ga wire was like $60! But soldering is a great idea too and is pretty easy..

I think I have a handle on how I'm going to do this now! Thanks for the help!
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  #259  
Old 06-28-2013, 05:59 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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When I did mine I twisted the exposed wire then tinned the wire. I then heated the new cable end and put a good amount of solder in it. With the cable end still hot I placed the tinned cable in the cable end while the solder was still molten. I was careful to ensure I measured the stripped portion for the wire so that it got good penetration into the cable end. After it cooled I used heat shrink tubing to finish the connection. I thought they turned out real good and are not going to come apart. There's a ton of opinions on crimping versus solder but from my perspective I can't see how you can get a much better connection if you follow the procedure I did.

I'm on my fifth season with this set up and is rock solid. It's easy to take apart and reinstall and you don't have to worry about anything coming apart.
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  #260  
Old 07-04-2013, 12:33 PM
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SILENTxNOISE SILENTxNOISE is offline
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Edit: Nevermind.. I just piggy-backed the neg terminals and didn't use the common bus at all.

Thanks for all the great info!!

One other question.. What size do you recommend for the common bus bar for the ground?

I have a 150amp 1/4inch stud bar but it seem like its way too small for this application...

Suggestions?

Last edited by SILENTxNOISE; 07-05-2013 at 12:05 AM.
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