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  #241  
Old 06-20-2013, 08:30 AM
Quinten Quinten is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 1997 Crownline 182 (sold), 2012 Mastercraft X2
Location: Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA View Post
It could be possible to have 2 loads left running, one on each bank. If your boat has the Dual Circuit Plus switch and a VSR, then the odds are slim that a load on the main bank would also draw down the house bank with the switch left in the on position.

I would 1st determine what rand down the battery(s), then test and recharge the batteries if they test good.
So it's not that 1 battery is just for starting and the other for accesoiry (house battery)?
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  #242  
Old 06-24-2013, 05:45 PM
LTRGUY261 LTRGUY261 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Boat: Centurion, Elite V C4, 2006 5.7L
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 27
Sorry to bring life back to this thread, but it seems to be the best I have seen so far. I am a rookie when it comes to this stuff so please excuse me for that. I am going to add a second battery to my boat and am thinking about this kit

http://www.amazon.com/BLUESEA-7650-S...+add+a+battery

Based on my readings, here are my assumptions about this. It essentially works just like the one Diesel mentioned in the original post but also has the on/off switch?

Now my real questions, what else do I need? I have read about fuses and circuit breakers on here. Do I need in-line fuses somewhere? If so where? Could I use this?
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syste...ef=pd_sim_pc_5

How do I know what size fuses to put in for each accessory?

Do I need an additional wire back to the block as a ground for the second battery? What would determine if I need larger wires to the starter from the cranking battery?

Sorry for all the questions folks, but this is the best source of info I have seen on this yet. I will promise to repay your kindness in answering these questions with pictures once I get started and finished with this.
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  #243  
Old 06-24-2013, 07:19 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTRGUY261 View Post
Sorry to bring life back to this thread, but it seems to be the best I have seen so far. I am a rookie when it comes to this stuff so please excuse me for that. I am going to add a second battery to my boat and am thinking about this kit

http://www.amazon.com/BLUESEA-7650-S...+add+a+battery

Based on my readings, here are my assumptions about this. It essentially works just like the one Diesel mentioned in the original post but also has the on/off switch?

Now my real questions, what else do I need? I have read about fuses and circuit breakers on here. Do I need in-line fuses somewhere? If so where? Could I use this?
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syste...ef=pd_sim_pc_5

How do I know what size fuses to put in for each accessory?

Do I need an additional wire back to the block as a ground for the second battery? What would determine if I need larger wires to the starter from the cranking battery?

Sorry for all the questions folks, but this is the best source of info I have seen on this yet. I will promise to repay your kindness in answering these questions with pictures once I get started and finished with this.
Your assumption is correct.

I recently installed the Blue Seas system with the switch, etc..... Next time I'll stick to the basics like the original poster has recommended. The Blue Seas switch is not needed in my opinion. Nothing but hype. Save yourself some money. The ignition switch will do all "off-and-on" processes that you will need for battery isolation / joint charging using the original poster's recommended configuration. .

You'll need fuses. I used the terminal fuse blocks at the battery posts and a few in-lines on smaller wires. ( http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%...rminal%20Fuse/ ) I chose not to use circuit breakers but they are not out of the question. I just didn't have room to mount the breaker box and the terminal fuses were easy to mount and readily visible.

Distance will determine if you need larger size cables...if you're sticking with the same distance, (OEM install) no need to increase the cable size, however I increased my size because I was there and wanted to make sure I was not on the edge of being undersized, and I also relocated my battery with a longer run of cable to the new location. Four GA cable was my OEM install, I replaced with 2 GA cable.

I used one ground bar from the engine block to the ground bar, then grounded the 2nd battery (and the first battery) to the ground bar. I also grounded other components on the bar, eliminating possible ground loops.

I found that these guys are the best bang for the buck and quality ==> http://shop.genuinedealz.com/

They ship via USPS "If it fits, it ships" boxes for a flat rate and not by weight of copper cable. Also go with tinned cables. Don't be a cheapscape for a few more pennies on the tinned cables.

I got all of my cable from them, crimped and heat shrink for $1.00 per connection. A poor (homemade) crimp from inadequate tools will ruin a connection. They do good work and ship promptly...

$0.02

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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Last edited by Cloaked; 06-24-2013 at 07:51 PM.
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  #244  
Old 06-25-2013, 09:42 AM
LTRGUY261 LTRGUY261 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Boat: Centurion, Elite V C4, 2006 5.7L
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 27
Thanks a ton Cloaked! What size fuses at the battery? How do I know what size fuses to put in line and on what components do I need them?
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  #245  
Old 06-25-2013, 09:05 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTRGUY261 View Post
Thanks a ton Cloaked! What size fuses at the battery? How do I know what size fuses to put in line and on what components do I need them?
I use 80 amp on the batteries and a standard (any automotive store) 10 amp (recommended by the manufacturer's instructions) on the smaller components (the switch on/off purple wire and the head unit). I ran a hot lead from the 2nd battery for the head unit and grounded it to the ground bar in lieu of an accessory ground wire in the boat. I think I used a second terminal block fuse (30 amp IIRC) for the amplifier hot lead (10GA cable) coming off the accessory battery.

So on my start battery I have a terminal block fuse and on the accessory battery I have two terminal block fuses. I used two separate fuses in lieu of the double-stacked fuse block at the accessory battery. Just a preference and I could maneuver the installation easier for the limited room.

You can see one of the in line fuses just below the amplifier in the picture, about middle way on the purple wire. I like that style for ease of viewing the fuse link without a lot of digging and removal of the fuse for checking.

Eliminating the Blue Seas on/off switch will also save you several dollars by not needing the extra cable. Again, the original poster's recommendation will be my next install.

You can also see the 4-lug ground bar just behind the amplifier.

The grey horizontal wires near the top are speaker wires going back out into the cabin. The white vertical wires are going to the head unit pre-amp outs located on the opposite side of the kick panel that everything is mounted.

The purple wires are connected to the ignition switch for the battery relay switch and the amplifier (obviously for on/off operations for each component).

Just below and to the left of the in-line fuse is a red cable and a black cable, each coming from the engine compartment, through the bulkhead wall in the floor, following the route of the steering cable, then I drilled two 3/4" holes in the kick panel to route those two main hot & ground cables into the area in the picture, which is on the port side behind the passenger's seat.

I ordered the one battery box for the accessory battery (around $12 bucks from Amazon) and ditched the cinch straps for the box cover. I replaced those straps with an old life jacket strap that has a clip buckle. Much easier to use when accessing the battery box.

I have seen cleaner installs but I like simple and easily accessible and viewable. Sodar did a nice install among others here...
.
__________________
93 190
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Don't be a boot licker
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Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.

Last edited by Cloaked; 06-25-2013 at 09:35 PM.
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  #246  
Old 06-25-2013, 11:20 PM
SILENTxNOISE's Avatar
SILENTxNOISE SILENTxNOISE is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Boat: 2006 Mastercraft X2 MCX w/ 07 Tower
Location: East TN
Posts: 89
I have a couple questions:

Could someone please explain in detail everything needed for the install of the Blue Sea dual battery switch (sorry if stated in pervious posts -- I haven't read the whole thread)? How many cables will be needed (both positive and negative), how many fuses, and is there any type of "battery install" kit (w/ cable cutters/strippers, terminal ends, etc) that anyone would recommend?

Second, do both the batters have to be the same manufacture if using the Blue Sea switch?
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  #247  
Old 06-26-2013, 10:30 AM
cwoods915 cwoods915 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Boat: 2001 Mastercraft Maristar 230VRS
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 34
Type of Battery

I know there is already the "Official Dual Battery Thread" out there, but it appears that was mainly focused on the dual battery setup rather than the battery type.

Anyways, I want to get opinions on best batteries for the following setup:
2001 Maristar with a Perko switch dual battery setup
Boat features include a 3-channel Kicker amp (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...r-ZX550.3.html) powering 2 polk tower speakers and a 12 inch sub. Boat also has been recently equipped with automatic ballast including 3 Jabsco pumps.

For this setup, what brand/type of batteries would you all recommend (without breaking the bank)? Of course, I've heard the Optima recommendations but wanted to see what else is out there. I've also been suggested running 2 deep cycle/dual purpose batteries but was unsure if this should be done? To wrap it up, the main purpose will be to power the stereo with the engine is off so I'd like batteries that will be able to run down and charge back quickly. Let's hear what you got...
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  #248  
Old 06-26-2013, 11:21 AM
nickespi's Avatar
nickespi nickespi is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Boat: 2002 MasterCraft X-30
Location: South
Posts: 894
I'm running two no name deep cycle 27's for my house bank and one Walmart marine non-deep cycle for my starting bank. Less than $300 in all three batteries. Has been sufficient for the last three seasons. The house bank has all accessories, deck, two towers, six cabins, two 12" kickers and two amps that it powers.
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  #249  
Old 06-26-2013, 11:25 AM
LTRGUY261 LTRGUY261 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Boat: Centurion, Elite V C4, 2006 5.7L
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
I use 80 amp on the batteries and a standard (any automotive store) 10 amp (recommended by the manufacturer's instructions) on the smaller components (the switch on/off purple wire and the head unit). I ran a hot lead from the 2nd battery for the head unit and grounded it to the ground bar in lieu of an accessory ground wire in the boat. I think I used a second terminal block fuse (30 amp IIRC) for the amplifier hot lead (10GA cable) coming off the accessory battery.

So on my start battery I have a terminal block fuse and on the accessory battery I have two terminal block fuses. I used two separate fuses in lieu of the double-stacked fuse block at the accessory battery. Just a preference and I could maneuver the installation easier for the limited room.

You can see one of the in line fuses just below the amplifier in the picture, about middle way on the purple wire. I like that style for ease of viewing the fuse link without a lot of digging and removal of the fuse for checking.

Eliminating the Blue Seas on/off switch will also save you several dollars by not needing the extra cable. Again, the original poster's recommendation will be my next install.

You can also see the 4-lug ground bar just behind the amplifier.

The grey horizontal wires near the top are speaker wires going back out into the cabin. The white vertical wires are going to the head unit pre-amp outs located on the opposite side of the kick panel that everything is mounted.

The purple wires are connected to the ignition switch for the battery relay switch and the amplifier (obviously for on/off operations for each component).

Just below and to the left of the in-line fuse is a red cable and a black cable, each coming from the engine compartment, through the bulkhead wall in the floor, following the route of the steering cable, then I drilled two 3/4" holes in the kick panel to route those two main hot & ground cables into the area in the picture, which is on the port side behind the passenger's seat.

I ordered the one battery box for the accessory battery (around $12 bucks from Amazon) and ditched the cinch straps for the box cover. I replaced those straps with an old life jacket strap that has a clip buckle. Much easier to use when accessing the battery box.

I have seen cleaner installs but I like simple and easily accessible and viewable. Sodar did a nice install among others here...
.
Thanks again for all of the time spent helping me out. I think I have everything I need on the way for this. Last question can I run a cranking battery as my start and a deep cycle for the house battery?
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  #250  
Old 06-26-2013, 11:41 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Boat: Maristar 200VRS w/ X2 Package, 2007, 310HP
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 2,292
Here we go again.......


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