Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Trailers

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-05-2010, 12:06 PM
juridicus
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Non-Activating Surge Brakes

I have the standard Mastercraft trailer typically sold with most of their boats. For the purpose of knowing its size I will note that my boat is a 1999 Mastercraft 205 X-Star -- first year of the X-Star. My surge brakes recently stopped activating. I take classes at Austin Community College in the Automotive Technology department and we have confirmed that the core mechanical components of the brake system seem to be functioning normally, and my disc brakes and pads are in normal operating condition. Of note, my trailer came with the "surge brake deactivation" feature that taps a power lead from the reverse lights of the towing vehicle and prevents the surge brakes from operating when the vehicle is in reverse. IS IT POSSIBLE THAT THE SOLENOID/WHATEVER HAS GONE BAD AND IS STUCK IN THE "BRAKES OFF" POSITION? If not, what other explanation is there? I have also attempted to back my trailer while the lights/brake lead were not connected to my truck hoping the surge brakes would lock up when there was no power to this device, but no luck. Please help.

PS: I know this is not a case of the calipers insufficiently applying force, as the ongoing amount of rust buildup on my discs confirms they haven't been touched by a brake pad in months! Also, I popped open the brake reservoir and watched the device physically operate when I pushed and pulled on the trailer tongue, so again I am pretty confident that the master cylinder is not the problem.

Last edited by juridicus; 05-05-2010 at 12:12 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-05-2010, 12:15 PM
2000XPSD's Avatar
2000XPSD 2000XPSD is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Boat: a few
Location: boston
Posts: 141
it sounds like rust is in the the line...check the orifice hole right after the master....it's very small and likes to plug up
you can also crack the line after the master and op it by hand and see if you get fluid
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-05-2010, 04:24 PM
93Prostar190's Avatar
93Prostar190 93Prostar190 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Boat: 2008 Prostar 214, MCX, Mini-Tower
Location: Central OH
Posts: 1,475
Well what happens if you jack up one side of the trailer and spin the wheel by hand ..... get it going and then manually activate the brakes using a screw driver .... does the wheel stop? if the brakes and lines are working well it should ....
__________________
Keep a tight line, and a smile on your face. Peace out.
2008 Prostar 214 MCX
Previous 93 Prostar 190 1.5:1 GT40

"Left Foot Forward and preferring girls."
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-05-2010, 04:38 PM
juridicus
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I can do this test, but how do I manually activate the brakes using a screwdriver?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-05-2010, 04:41 PM
cbryan70's Avatar
cbryan70 cbryan70 is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Boat: 1993 Prostar 205
Location: midwest
Posts: 3,651
Send a message via AIM to cbryan70
pull the acuator back towards the boat.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoosier Bob
She always misses me and when I turn her on it is hard to turn her off! She is MC and she completes me! She is the first ride that wants it as much as I do!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-05-2010, 04:45 PM
93Prostar190's Avatar
93Prostar190 93Prostar190 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Boat: 2008 Prostar 214, MCX, Mini-Tower
Location: Central OH
Posts: 1,475
On most trailers ... if you look under the trailer tongue, you should see an opening when the piston that is in front of the master cylinder is visible. If you use a flat head screw driver you can push the piston towards the rear of the trailer (away from the tow vehicle) which simulates the same effect of the tow vehicle slowing down and pushing the coupler in that direction to activate the brakes.

the trailer coupler pushes on the same piston that you are about to push on. it should be easy to activate with with a screwdriver.

Other things to check ... is the coupler frozen or does it move backwards when you push it into the trailer ... a frozen coupler would not push on the piston/master cylinder and prevent braking as well.
__________________
Keep a tight line, and a smile on your face. Peace out.
2008 Prostar 214 MCX
Previous 93 Prostar 190 1.5:1 GT40

"Left Foot Forward and preferring girls."
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-05-2010, 04:48 PM
93Prostar190's Avatar
93Prostar190 93Prostar190 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Boat: 2008 Prostar 214, MCX, Mini-Tower
Location: Central OH
Posts: 1,475
I also read your post again and noticed that you said the coupler moves ... which is good .... you should be able to stop the wheel that is spinning the same way.
__________________
Keep a tight line, and a smile on your face. Peace out.
2008 Prostar 214 MCX
Previous 93 Prostar 190 1.5:1 GT40

"Left Foot Forward and preferring girls."
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-05-2010, 05:01 PM
juridicus
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by 93Prostar190 View Post
On most trailers ... if you look under the trailer tongue, you should see an opening when the piston that is in front of the master cylinder is visible. If you use a flat head screw driver you can push the piston towards the rear of the trailer (away from the tow vehicle) which simulates the same effect of the tow vehicle slowing down and pushing the coupler in that direction to activate the brakes.

the trailer coupler pushes on the same piston that you are about to push on. it should be easy to activate with with a screwdriver.

Other things to check ... is the coupler frozen or does it move backwards when you push it into the trailer ... a frozen coupler would not push on the piston/master cylinder and prevent braking as well.
The coupler is not frozen and moves appropriately. However, this entire section of the hitch is fully enclosed. The master cylinder itself is not visible to me except via the brake fluid fill hole on the top, and when I open the detachable trailer tongue and swing it away so I can look inside the tube where the rear-end of the master cylinder is. However, I can't actually see much of the master cylinder, as the device I mentioned earlier (the thing which is supposed to temporarily deactivate the surge brakes when the vehicle is put in reverse) is in the way (it is the first thing after the master cylinder).
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-05-2010, 05:27 PM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Boat: Gone
Location: Gone
Posts: 22,134
Quote:
Originally Posted by juridicus View Post
I can do this test, but how do I manually activate the brakes using a screwdriver?

It shows here in this UFP pdf on the actuator maintenance, http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs...aintenance.pdf, page 25.
__________________
Charter Member Number 1

Quote: 2RLAKE,
At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.




Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-05-2010, 05:46 PM
juridicus
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMCNo1 View Post
It shows here in this UFP pdf on the actuator maintenance, http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs...aintenance.pdf, page 25.
Oh, this is a PDF I can use! Thanks so much for this... Let me see what I can find out now...
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
surge brake deactivation, surge brake problems, surge brakes

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:34 AM.