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  #1  
Old 04-02-2010, 08:40 AM
possumlover82 possumlover82 is offline
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Boat: 2001 X-Star
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Brake Calipers

My 2001 x-star is on a mastercraft tandem axle trailer with disc break. Someone (previous to me owning the boat) removed the calipers and zip-tied the brake lines to the axle. I can only assume because something went wrong with the brake system and this was easy fix. I am looking at correcting this issue and need some advice.

1. Where can I get the calipers? Is there a certain brand? Certain size?
2. Thre rotors are still there but covered in rust. Ovbiously I will clean them before installing calipers and pads.(given they are not warped) Will that be ok? Or will I need to purchase new rotors as well.

Or would it be easier/cheaper to just take it to the local trailer shop and say, "fix my break system please."?

Thanks in advance.

Oh and one more thing. I am out of country and not able to get the boat. I was trying to get all the parts ordered so when I get home I could knock this out.

Last edited by possumlover82; 04-02-2010 at 08:42 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-02-2010, 08:50 AM
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AFX-30 AFX-30 is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft X-30 2001 5.7L Indmar
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Brakes

I just ordered a new brake system from trailerpartsdepot. They are quick to reply and have very resonable prices. Email them and ask for Mike. He is the one helping me and might give you a discount.
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  #3  
Old 04-02-2010, 09:00 AM
possumlover82 possumlover82 is offline
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Will do, thanks.
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  #4  
Old 04-02-2010, 09:48 AM
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Thrall Thrall is offline
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If you have the time and means, i's not a terribly hard job to put the new calipers and pads on.
I'd flush the lines, push some brake fluid thru them before hooking up if they've sat open.
Probably want to get a new master cyl while you're at it. A 10year old master cyl will be toast now or soon, especially if it's dried out not being used.
I used one of those cheap $5 brake bleeding kits from autozone. Made bleeding the trialer brakes a snap on my 190, keeps you from having to "pump" the trailer hitch actuator 1000 times to bleed the conventional way with a helper opening and closing the bleeder.
The shock on the master cyl/actuator may need to be replaced as well.
Make sure you anti seize all teh bolts and bushings on the brakes. These have ahabit of rusting and hanging up probably due to infrequent use and lake dunkings!
Not sure where to get the parts, AFX30 has a lead for you.
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  #5  
Old 04-02-2010, 10:14 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is online now
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Depending on how long the brakes we out of service, I would consider replacing the brake lines. There could be a lot of corrosion in the line that will not flush out. If they were only disabled for a short time, a flush would be sufficient.
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:38 AM
possumlover82 possumlover82 is offline
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Thanks, guys.

Yeah, I have no idea how long the calipers have been off. I was thinking that about the lines as well.
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  #7  
Old 04-02-2010, 04:08 PM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Personally I would sand the rotors with 80 grit or so and sand them. You wont hurt them.

I would replace all lines and put a new master cylinder in it. I probably would pull whole actuator out of the inner member of the trailer and look at it. If the shock is bad and I would replace that also as stated above. I would look at every piece on the actuator and if you see wear I may just replace it with a new one. Especially if it is rusty. I took mine apart and just replaced the master cylinder but if you start replacing other parts it turns out for a few more bucks everything is new. I do believe that if you bought all of the parts for the actuator it is cheeper to buy one assembled vs building yours back up.

I dont know if you have a SS line from the master cylinder to the calipers but there are several opions for you there. I have a flare tool kit and a tube cutter, so I replaced mine with new SS line. If you dont have the tools and dont want to rent them you can purchase a rubber hose kit and use it. There is no cutting in that kit and it just bolts right up. I have used that kit as well on a friends trailer and it worked well.

I am not sure what calipers that are used but I would call my MC dealer and ask them what brand came on the trailer and if they had any. Calipers cant be to expensive and you will probably have to use them for the actuator parts.

I bet the calipers were removed because the PO had issues backing up or he may have got water into the master cylinder and it was locking up on him. Instead of fixing the issue he abandoned ship. In this case it would be much easier to disconnect the lines to calipers and just leave them on. Who Knows.
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  #8  
Old 04-02-2010, 05:53 PM
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jakethebt jakethebt is offline
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I would bead or sand blast the rotors, much easier than sanding. That will bring them right back.

Just a quick note on rotors. Usually they dont "warp" rather they become un even on the thickness. This is because some times things are not square and a high spot hits the pad every time by and wears a thin spot in the rotor. Then when you apply the caliper the pads clamp on both sides of the rotor and as that thin spot goes past the pads the pads ride out under pressure and then the thick spot comes back by and pushes on the calipers. This creates a pressure pulse on the master cylinder and can usually be felt on the brake pedal. Not a safety issue really, just annoying. I am not sure that you would feel this on a trailer, but ICBW. I would blast the rotors and try them as you are going to lay out some cash for other brake parts.

Also good advice on replacing the lines. It would suck to have the rust from the inside out and then spray brake fluid all over your boat and trailer. Brake fluid is very acidic and eats through anyting so be careful there.

Best of luck and post some pics!

Last edited by ModX; 04-02-2010 at 06:49 PM.
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  #9  
Old 04-02-2010, 08:53 PM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakethebt View Post
I would bead or sand blast the rotors, much easier than sanding. That will bring them right back.

Just a quick note on rotors. Usually they dont "warp" rather they become un even on the thickness. This is because some times things are not square and a high spot hits the pad every time by and wears a thin spot in the rotor. Then when you apply the caliper the pads clamp on both sides of the rotor and as that thin spot goes past the pads the pads ride out under pressure and then the thick spot comes back by and pushes on the calipers. This creates a pressure pulse on the master cylinder and can usually be felt on the brake pedal. Not a safety issue really, just annoying. I am not sure that you would feel this on a trailer, but ICBW. I would blast the rotors and try them as you are going to lay out some cash for other brake parts.

Also good advice on replacing the lines. It would suck to have the rust from the inside out and then spray brake fluid all over your boat and trailer. Brake fluid is very acidic and eats through anyting so be careful there.

Best of luck and post some pics!

Rotors do warp, mostly from being overheated and dunked in the colds water during launch. Hub/rotor assemblies just like highway vehicle hub/rotors can be turned at most any garage that does brake work, just like turning brake drums.
Replace the brake lines with stainless tubing to eliminate the rust factor.
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  #10  
Old 04-03-2010, 05:07 AM
possumlover82 possumlover82 is offline
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Thanks for all the input. I think I will take the advise and just replace everything, except rotors. I can do the stainless steel brakelines myself, I have all the tools do that. I won't be doing this until maybe June, but I will post update or post a new thread of the journey when it begins.
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