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Old 04-11-2010, 03:47 PM
trapjaw trapjaw is offline
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What's the easy way to start my boat at home?

Hey, i don't wanna buy a "fake-a-lake", so i'm wondering what's the other way to start my boat at home on the trailer?
Isn't there a way to just unhook the inlet hose on the water pump, then install a short piece of hose to the pump and stick it in a bucket?
Lemme know if there's an easier way to do it. Thanks guys.
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  #2  
Old 04-11-2010, 04:12 PM
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With the key?

























But really, the inline flush kit seems to be the ticket!
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Old 04-11-2010, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trapjaw View Post
Hey, i don't wanna buy a "fake-a-lake", so i'm wondering what's the other way to start my boat at home on the trailer?
Isn't there a way to just unhook the inlet hose on the water pump, then install a short piece of hose to the pump and stick it in a bucket?
Lemme know if there's an easier way to do it. Thanks guys.
If you want reserve water, do the hose in a bucket (5 gallon minimum). Look in my posts- I've been harping on about this for years.
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Old 04-11-2010, 05:12 PM
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ski_king ski_king is offline
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I agree with using a 5 gallon bucket.

If you have a direct drive, just unhook the hose from the hull intake and drop it the bucket.


Ignore the bucket that has the green kool aid in it.
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Old 04-11-2010, 05:15 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trapjaw View Post
Hey, i don't wanna buy a "fake-a-lake", so i'm wondering what's the other way to start my boat at home on the trailer?
Isn't there a way to just unhook the inlet hose on the water pump, then install a short piece of hose to the pump and stick it in a bucket?
Lemme know if there's an easier way to do it. Thanks guys.
Water hose nozzle in the top of the intake cooler............
Start engine first, then feed water. There are other methods but this is the path of least resistance and still get sufficient water. JimN has points of more detail as to the temperatures and thermostat interaction but for starting and tweaking, this method has served me well for 31 years of boating.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

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Old 04-11-2010, 05:19 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Another look at the intake

.
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Don't be a boot licker
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Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.
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  #7  
Old 04-11-2010, 05:35 PM
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Chicago190 Chicago190 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
Water hose nozzle in the top of the intake cooler............
Start engine first, then feed water. There are other methods but this is the path of least resistance and still get sufficient water. JimN has points of more detail as to the temperatures and thermostat interaction but for starting and tweaking, this method has served me well for 31 years of boating.
That won't work on a lot of boats since the transmission cooler is mounted horizontally. The easiest way is the the 5 gallon bucket.
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Old 04-11-2010, 06:26 PM
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Instead of a $50 fake-a-lake, I bought a standard toilet plunger and a garden hose repair coupler (the kind with a barbed end). Drill a hole in the side of the rubber plunger head and poke the repair coupler through. Works like a champ and it cost about $6 in parts from Home Depot.

Just don't try to use it in the bathroom....
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  #9  
Old 04-11-2010, 06:40 PM
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After reading JimN preach about how much more water your engine needs than a fake-a-lake can provide, I did as he suggested and pulled the feed line for the raw water pump and put it in a 5 gallon pail. I had rigged a water valve to the hose going in and filled the pail up and fired the engine up. I was amazed that at idle (600 RPM)my garden hose would just about keep up with the demand. At 1000 RPM, there is no way to keep up.

When running with the fake-a-lake last year, I assumed that all the water that was leaking out between the hull and the fake-a-lake was an over-supply of water. I couldn't have been more wrong. Remember what those assumptions do.

As cold as the water coming out of the hose was, I had a hard time getting the engine up to operating temp. Guess that just means more time listening to her rumble.

JimN, thank you for making me see the light on this matter.



Time to put a post on craigslist for a slightly used fake-a-lake.
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  #10  
Old 04-11-2010, 07:40 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicago190 View Post
That won't work on a lot of boats since the transmission cooler is mounted horizontally. The easiest way is the the 5 gallon bucket.
So, buy a piece of 1-1/4" hose and put it on the hull side of the oil cooler. It works great.

Last edited by JimN; 04-11-2010 at 09:46 PM.
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