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  #1  
Old 03-21-2010, 03:41 PM
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MattsCraft MattsCraft is offline
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Boat: 2013 X25 - 6.2 Ilmor Baby
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Cool My L.E.D. Install & How To

Supplies I used:
From http://www.superbrightleds.com/

7 - 3 Pod L.E.D. - ALM-x3 Blue - Cockpit & Front Cup Holders
2 - 4 Pod L.E.D. - ALM-x4 Blue - Mounted Under Helm

From http://www.oznium.com/flexible-tri-chip-ribbon-leds

2 - Tri-Chip Ultra-Flex Waterproof Strip Blue - Mounted above Rear Cup Holders
Note: I played with the placement on these, they are very bright, I found that putting them facing toward the outside of the boat toward the carpet gave the best effect.

From http://www.wiringproducts.com/
100' Parallel 18 Gauge / 2 Conductor
100' 1/4'' Polyethylene Black Slit Loom
100 - 22-18 ga. Butt Splice
(ordered extra for future Use)
All wire runs were completed using wire loom!

3M Molding Tape

All of the Super Bright L.E.D.'s have the wire routed out of the top of the pod, to get a seamless (No Wire showing) install you have to take them apart and drill a hole (5/32") to re-route the wire. (See Photo #1) The L.E.D.s are actually silicone caulked into the back of the pod, so in reality you are going to drill the front and mount the pods backwards. They are so small, no one will be able to tell the difference except me and you.

Important Note: Be sure to order at least one more pod than your application, having the wire come out of the top is a nice to have for checking your alignment. (See Photo #2)

Now you are ready to mark and drill your holes (5/32") for mounting. I used painters masking tape, seemed to stick pretty well to the gel coat.
Important Note: Be sure to measure each pod for each location as your hole/wire location for each pod will probably be slightly different. (See Inset Photo #2) Also, be sure to place masking tape over your drill hole spot so the gel coat does not crack when drilling. Before drilling, tape your EXTRA pod in place to make sure you are happy with where the light hits. I simply ran a wire from the battery to the pod for temporary power. Measure Thrice!!!

Clean the area, apply 2 small strips (3/8) of 3M molding tape to the back of the pod, feed the wire through the hole and stick in place. I did not screw in each pod; the tape seems to hold real well. Time will tell, if they come loose I have stainless #4x3/4 screws if needed. Hard to find locally, I ordered them from Bolt Depot!

I ran a separate line for each pod in wire loom. I disconnected the factory courtesy light fore and aft and made my connections there, this way all of the lights are on the same switch as the underwater lights. (All of the rears run to the rear light, dash and fronts run to the forward light.

And the final result, looks fantastic in person, photos just do not do it justice! For me one key is the entire deck is under a nice blue glow and none of the lights are blinding, so it should be fine while under way at night.

PM me if you have any questions!
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  #2  
Old 03-21-2010, 05:10 PM
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Big Dogg Big Dogg is offline
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Looks great, now you just need the LED speaker rings! In all seriousness though that turned out looking spectacular and gives a great glow. Messing with the placement of the LEDs sure paid off
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  #3  
Old 03-21-2010, 06:11 PM
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MattsCraft MattsCraft is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dogg View Post
Looks great, now you just need the LED speaker rings! In all seriousness though that turned out looking spectacular and gives a great glow. Messing with the placement of the LEDs sure paid off
Big Dogg - Thanks, I should have put in the right up, I spent some time at night testing the placement. I really was going for just an underglow look and wanted to stay away from any light that would blind you from the helm! Only place I would like the speaker rings is on the tower, however sure don't want to mess with fishing the wires I have enough fiberglass splinters from this job!
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  #4  
Old 03-21-2010, 06:53 PM
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Big Dogg Big Dogg is offline
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Try some heavy duty fishing line or small nylon string tied to a steel needle. Get a nice Hard drive magnet out of burnt up CPU (or other powerful magnet) and pull that needle through the inside of the tower guiding it along with the magnet on the outside. In all honesty, I wired a 1 7/8 tower in less than 3 hours last spring by using this little method. It makes pulling wires a breese. I have LED speaker rings on my tower too, and I love them, gives a nice glow to the back of the boat and outlying water. I think you'll be quite pleased with them. However, per this website and previous debates, I do realize in some states they are illegal to use while underway. Nor do I support or codone their use. They do make for some wonderful accent lighting and I do love mine!
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  #5  
Old 03-22-2010, 12:25 AM
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Thrall Thrall is offline
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Boat: '06 X2 MCX
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I used tie wire (for tying rebar) to pull all my tower wires, shower and htr wiring and a heater duct. Almost better than a fish tape because it's a little more flexible.

Nice LED's!
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  #6  
Old 03-07-2013, 02:00 PM
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onewheat onewheat is offline
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Boat: 2013 Mastercraft X-25 with the awesome 6.2
Location: BG, KY
Posts: 685
That looks really great - which boat is this in?
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  #7  
Old 03-07-2013, 02:03 PM
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Double D Double D is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Boat: 1994 Mastercraft, ProStar 205, 350 Indmar with 275 hp
Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 4,277
And just think Matt, you get to do it all over again with your new boat!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by MattsCraft View Post
Supplies I used:
From http://www.superbrightleds.com/

7 - 3 Pod L.E.D. - ALM-x3 Blue - Cockpit & Front Cup Holders
2 - 4 Pod L.E.D. - ALM-x4 Blue - Mounted Under Helm

From http://www.oznium.com/flexible-tri-chip-ribbon-leds

2 - Tri-Chip Ultra-Flex Waterproof Strip Blue - Mounted above Rear Cup Holders
Note: I played with the placement on these, they are very bright, I found that putting them facing toward the outside of the boat toward the carpet gave the best effect.

From http://www.wiringproducts.com/
100' Parallel 18 Gauge / 2 Conductor
100' 1/4'' Polyethylene Black Slit Loom
100 - 22-18 ga. Butt Splice
(ordered extra for future Use)
All wire runs were completed using wire loom!

3M Molding Tape

All of the Super Bright L.E.D.'s have the wire routed out of the top of the pod, to get a seamless (No Wire showing) install you have to take them apart and drill a hole (5/32") to re-route the wire. (See Photo #1) The L.E.D.s are actually silicone caulked into the back of the pod, so in reality you are going to drill the front and mount the pods backwards. They are so small, no one will be able to tell the difference except me and you.

Important Note: Be sure to order at least one more pod than your application, having the wire come out of the top is a nice to have for checking your alignment. (See Photo #2)

Now you are ready to mark and drill your holes (5/32") for mounting. I used painters masking tape, seemed to stick pretty well to the gel coat.
Important Note: Be sure to measure each pod for each location as your hole/wire location for each pod will probably be slightly different. (See Inset Photo #2) Also, be sure to place masking tape over your drill hole spot so the gel coat does not crack when drilling. Before drilling, tape your EXTRA pod in place to make sure you are happy with where the light hits. I simply ran a wire from the battery to the pod for temporary power. Measure Thrice!!!

Clean the area, apply 2 small strips (3/8) of 3M molding tape to the back of the pod, feed the wire through the hole and stick in place. I did not screw in each pod; the tape seems to hold real well. Time will tell, if they come loose I have stainless #4x3/4 screws if needed. Hard to find locally, I ordered them from Bolt Depot!

I ran a separate line for each pod in wire loom. I disconnected the factory courtesy light fore and aft and made my connections there, this way all of the lights are on the same switch as the underwater lights. (All of the rears run to the rear light, dash and fronts run to the forward light.

And the final result, looks fantastic in person, photos just do not do it justice! For me one key is the entire deck is under a nice blue glow and none of the lights are blinding, so it should be fine while under way at night.

PM me if you have any questions!
__________________
If its not a competition ski boat, its always second best.

1994 MasterCraft ProStar 205
275 HP 350 Chevy Indmar
Monster Tower & PerfectPass

Check out the MasterCraft Buckeye Bash on Facebook!

"In my many years I have come to a conclusion that one useless man is a shame, two is a law firm and three or more is a congress." - John Adams
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  #8  
Old 03-07-2013, 04:39 PM
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MattsCraft MattsCraft is offline
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Join Date: May 2008
Boat: 2013 X25 - 6.2 Ilmor Baby
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,084
This was in an '09 X2..

Nah DD, don't have much to do on the new boat, the '13's are all per-wired for speaker rings so I am told plus it has a few around the cockpit area already
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  #9  
Old 03-07-2013, 05:02 PM
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Latin Flyer Latin Flyer is online now
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Boat: X2
Location: Miami
Posts: 244
I envy the quality and knowledge to do to this things. I feel like an idiot.
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  #10  
Old 03-07-2013, 05:07 PM
Double D's Avatar
Double D Double D is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Boat: 1994 Mastercraft, ProStar 205, 350 Indmar with 275 hp
Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 4,277
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattsCraft View Post
This was in an '09 X2..

Nah DD, don't have much to do on the new boat, the '13's are all per-wired for speaker rings so I am told plus it has a few around the cockpit area already
Well that's good. Any sneak peek on the new one? What and when??
__________________
If its not a competition ski boat, its always second best.

1994 MasterCraft ProStar 205
275 HP 350 Chevy Indmar
Monster Tower & PerfectPass

Check out the MasterCraft Buckeye Bash on Facebook!

"In my many years I have come to a conclusion that one useless man is a shame, two is a law firm and three or more is a congress." - John Adams
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