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  #61  
Old 07-10-2013, 12:08 PM
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BallBushing BallBushing is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruisinGA View Post
When I pulled my pump to replace the seal (mine was also dripping) I found that the bearings were going bad.

Ordered new bearings, installed them and the seal and have put another 100 hrs on the boat.

Just wanted to mention this so that you knew all was not lost if you found the bearings were going bad.
What p/n were the bearings? 6203 or 608 ? deep groove ball bearings (the two most common), were they sealed? would have "2RS" after the p/n
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  #62  
Old 07-10-2013, 12:16 PM
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homer12 homer12 is offline
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I also replaced my seal this winter, no bearings - they were still very smooth. So far so good this year.
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  #63  
Old 07-10-2013, 01:31 PM
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CruisinGA CruisinGA is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BallBushing View Post
What p/n were the bearings? 6203 or 608 ? deep groove ball bearings (the two most common), were they sealed? would have "2RS" after the p/n
Here's my thread- http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...hlight=bearing

Last post in the thread I commented on how the bearing looked like it was a 6203, but I don't remember for sure. They were sealed. I bought the indmar part # bearings just to be sure.
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  #64  
Old 07-10-2013, 05:11 PM
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BallBushing BallBushing is offline
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6203 2RS The highest volume produced bearing in the world, in the millions. Cost to produce each is in the 50 cent area.

If anyone needs these, go to a bearing distributor like Motion Industries or Applied Industrial Technologies (AIT)

Don't fall for the sales tactic that you need to spend extra for an ABEC 5/7/9. ABEC 1 is fine.

Actually, in production all parts are produced to the tighter tolerance (ABEC9) then sorted out to the lower tolerances. Has nothing to do with performance, especially in a low load / low speed application like a water pump. A 6203 is rated for 17,000 rpm w/ grease lube.

FYI
6203 Commonly known as an electric motor bearing
If you skate board, get 608's, commonly known as skate board bearings. Again ABEC 1
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  #65  
Old 07-19-2013, 04:00 PM
jjbulla jjbulla is offline
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UPDATE: Ok I removed the pump yesterday and went to work on replacing the seal. My tool supply was pretty limited, so I just removed the impeller and tried to replace the seal from there. I got the seal in but I couldn't get it completely flush. I tried just about everything I could but nothing would work. I ended up putting everything back on the boat and testing it out. It still drips but it is less frequent then before. Do I need to get that seal completely flush or should it be ok?
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