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  #1  
Old 06-15-2005, 05:27 PM
mbeach mbeach is offline
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replacing bearings

yo troops. saw a real ugly sight on side of road this past weekend. a bayliner was stranded with a wheel sitting at a 45-deg angle and fender damage. guess he lost a wheel bearing. since i will probably be towing my boat from iowa to florida this summer, i want to have my bearings, seals, race, etc. replaced and repacked. priced job at local cobolt dealer who quoted approx $300. i would have to leave boat with them and they would have to work me in, probably 3 weeks. went to local axle and frame shop who quoted $60 labor plus parts but would be less than $100 total bill. needed 2 day notice and they would have me out by noon. they do trailers of all types from boat to campers up to and including 18 wheelers. they said that there were 6 or so different size kits that fit 98% of all boat trailers and they stock all 6. i assume a mc trailer (single axle) is not too funky. so my question: is this a no brainer and too good to be true? i have replaced bearings/seals/race on an automobile which was a piece of cake, but after 2 weekends, much profanity, many beers, and a generally frustrating time getting my prop off, i think $60 labor is a real deal. bearings, it seems, can be considerably more irritang than a prop. comments ya'll.
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  #2  
Old 06-15-2005, 05:31 PM
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60 bucks for parts is about right if you have someone do it. I bought the parts for about 40, but you have to figure they will mark them up a bit. As for labor, I can do each wheel in about an hour and a half per side, so if thier labor 100 dollars I think that is very fair.
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Old 06-15-2005, 05:33 PM
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The price sounds reasonable. Trailer bearings aren't any different than packing/replacing the front bearings on an older car. Total piece of cake and with the right tools all 4 can be done in less than an hour.
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  #4  
Old 06-15-2005, 05:37 PM
mbeach mbeach is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Footin
60 bucks for parts is about right if you have someone do it. I bought the parts for about 40, but you have to figure they will mark them up a bit. As for labor, I can do each wheel in about an hour and a half per side, so if thier labor 100 dollars I think that is very fair.
thanks footin. also, is that an f-14 streaking over the water next to your name? that's my favorite fighter of all time. not many fighters of this class will ever match its mach 2.3 speed.
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  #5  
Old 06-15-2005, 05:40 PM
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It is a smaller version of this:
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  #6  
Old 06-15-2005, 05:41 PM
mbeach mbeach is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Footin
It is a smaller version of this:
nice pull!
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  #7  
Old 06-16-2005, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbeach
so my question: is this a no brainer and too good to be true? i have replaced bearings/seals/race on an automobile which was a piece of cake, but after 2 weekends, much profanity, many beers, and a generally frustrating time getting my prop off, i think $60 labor is a real deal. bearings, it seems, can be considerably more irritang than a prop. comments ya'll.
Yep this is a no brainer. Take it to the trailer shop. The last thing you want is some monkey that works on stern drives replacing your trailer bearings. Plus the trailer shop won't have you down for 3 weeks during the summer.
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  #8  
Old 06-16-2005, 02:48 PM
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Totally agree; trailer shop knows more about wheel bearings than the boat mechanic. When I went to local MC dealer to buy bearings, etc., for my trailer, they sent me to the trailer shop anyway. Guess it was too much to expect them to stock them.
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  #9  
Old 06-16-2005, 03:42 PM
mbeach mbeach is offline
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gentlemen, i think we have consensus: trailer shop for less than $100 is way to go rather than waste valuable water time in a garage. now, i need to bleed brakes and check reservoir. where is the reservoir and is there a post anywhere on how this is done? brakes are stock drum mc 98 single axle vintage. have done this procedure many times on sport cars (mg's and triumphs) but no brake pedal to push has me cornfused (easy spelling weenies, intentionally mispelled).
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  #10  
Old 06-16-2005, 03:50 PM
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Fluid reservoir is located on the tongue of the trailer under a round black plastic cap.
Bleed the brakes is the same as a car, you should be able to push the front of the hitch (master cylinder) by hand as someone lays under the trailer opening and shuting the bleeder screws.
If you can not move the cylinder by hand try to wegde a 2x4 against the ground as use it a lever against the hitch.
Make sure as you do this you constantly moniter the fluid level.
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