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Old 08-07-2015, 01:45 AM
deer4011 deer4011 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Boat: Mastercraft S&S 82' 351W
Location: Southwest
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1982 S&S Clearcoat Repair

Recently I Purchased a 82' S&S for a good price the boat runs great but the paint is pretty faded. It is white with blue flake stripes and you can feel the roughness from the flakes because there is no clear left. The stickers were removed by the PO and left clear coat from where the stickers once were. My question is how do I get the clear from where the stickers were off without taking off too much of the blue flake. I bought some 500 grit paper and was going to do the whole hull with this that and then go through with some 1000 grit and then clear but i didnt want to take too much off. Also do you use clear coat or gel coat.

Thanks,
Reid
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  #2  
Old 08-07-2015, 01:51 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Welcome to Team Talk. There are many people more knowledgeable than me when it come to gel coat, but I can get you pointed in the right direction. These boats have a gel coat outer. When manufactured, they were sprayed into a mold and fiberglass built up over that.

Wet sanding could be more extreme than needed here. Start with a high speed buffer and compound and see if that will get you what you need. As far as the flake goes, once it is exposed, all you can really do is clear over it.
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Old 08-07-2015, 02:13 AM
deer4011 deer4011 is offline
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I think the flake is exposed... you can feel the roughness. I just dont know what to do with the spots where the old decals used to be. I found a decal kit on ebay with all the stars, 2 side logos and transom logo for $80 shipped i could just put those over the spots but i want to do it right.
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:21 PM
atihanyi atihanyi is offline
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Once the flake is exposed it becomes very delicate even to a buffer . I would mask the area off and scuff the area where the decals were with a red scotch-brite the very gently hit the rest with some 800 wet and add 2-3 coats of a good catalyzed urethane clear . Should last for a few years after that
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:51 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deer4011 View Post
I think the flake is exposed... you can feel the roughness. I just dont know what to do with the spots where the old decals used to be. I found a decal kit on ebay with all the stars, 2 side logos and transom logo for $80 shipped i could just put those over the spots but i want to do it right.
That gel coat is pretty thick to begin with (OEM) so the flake may be coming through after a wet sand (or two) etc.... something has thinned the gel to be that far into it and expose the flake. However my opinion is different than you being there to describe. You're into the flake and once you get there and go deeper, it will start looking like black specs and there isn't a recoverable repair per se', but (if you get to exposed flake) you'll need to respray the gel and the flake as a second coat and go from there. Any decent fiberglass guy should be able to do that with that skill.

I'd use 3M rubbing compound and lightly remove the oxidation where possible. If the flake does not surface at that point. keep rubbing until you get a nice finish. The gel is thicker than one might think, but like I said, you are there with the boat.

I'll say this; once you get it buffed out and stickers on, that is just the beginning of a nice finish. It will oxidize rather quickly if you do not seal the gel with wax (more than once a year).

This boating maintenance is a love of labor and hobby, not practical solutions and plug-and-play.

Do not discredit the previous poster's advice, although anything mentioned about a clear something or another makes me cringe, but it is a viable option. My experience is that I have seen clear coating peel and flake off or acquire a yellowish tint after a few years, but I am sure mileage varies and there may be the perfect clear coating product out there and me not know it. Wet sanding should be avoided if possible, especially with a harsh grit (800). Start with 2000 and work from there. A wet sand makes for a great resurfacing and eventual finish but you have an added variable with the flake.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 08-07-2015 at 08:15 PM.
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