Loose Rub Rail

[alp]

About a 3 foot section of the rub rail is loose on my '92 190. It's on the driver's side from about the middle of the motor box back towards the stern. There is about 1/8" to 1/4' play between the rail and the hull. There is not any visible hull damage or stress cracks in the area. Looks like the metal fasteners are not seated. Has anyone had this problem?How can this be repaired?

[rem_pss308]

There are two pieces to the rub rail.
the center peice which pops out.
and the peice that attaches to the boat.
It is attached to the boat probably with rivets.
You will need to remove the center peice, then remove the rivets, and replace them with small bolts, and lock nuts ( stainless ) then reinsert the center rubber peice.
While I was doing it, I would do the whole boat. then never worry about it.
To get the rubber back in, a heat gun works well. Also if you remove the whole thing, when you go to re-install it, soak the rubber in a bucket of "hot" water first, everything will go a lot easier.

hope this helps.

[John B]

My friend's 93 190 had that happen. It is in the same as it is on your boat.
What I told me to do is put a beed of silicone under the rail then tape it down tight with duct tape to dry.
He has not done it yet. If you do it that way let me know how it works.

[Jorski]

I have 1993 190...and here is what mine was like...

The rail is held in place by rivets. They work fine; however, if the rub rail gets hit they will loosen.

You have to unscrew and remove the metal cap at the middle of the stern where the two ends of the vinyl insert meet. Then you will be able to pull out the insert, back to the point where the rail is loose.

Once this has been done, you can use a drill to drill out the old rivets where necessary. Use a drill bit slightly larger than hole in the middle of the rivet. It will drill out very easily, these are actually quite soft. After you have the loose ones out, you could clean the surface of the gel coat that was under the rubrail and lay down a small bead of silicone to ensure a good seal. Then rivet back into place...provided there has not been any damage to the original holes this will make a very firm connection.

If the old holes are damaged, I would put a dab of silicone over them and drill new holes a few inches away from the old damaged hole. If you really want to go nuts you could patch the holes from underneath the gunnel with marinetex or fibreglass.

After the rail is tight and secure, you will need to re-install the insert. Use a heat gun to soften the vinyl insert and a spray bottle with some soapy water to lubricate rail as you push it back into place. Put one edge into the rail, then I used a wide dull putty knife (4" or so) to push in a section of the opposite edge...I found you can do about 6 inches at a time. Finally, reinstall the end cap and you are done !

This is a tedious procedure but not very difficult. If you have any thoughts about replacing any sections of the rail or replacing the insert, now is the time to do it.

[G-man]

don't bother drilling out the old rivots. Through bolt it after you pull out the insert. Silicone glue works for holding it for a while but not the best solution.

[Diesel]

It is a common failure.........

Everyone I know (including myself) removed the insert, drilled out the rivets, ran a bead of silicone, and thru bolted the base with stainless fasteners and lock nuts. It will take some time and your hands will probably be sore from the heat gun and reinserting the rail. I would do it once the right way and forget about it............

[alp]

Great advice! I'm relieved... thought I may have had a unique problem. Sounds like a full day job. I'll let you know how it went when I'm done.

Thanks