Impeller help, and Antifreeze

[5280Hawk]

I winterized my 02 X-star last weekend, and two thing that had me baffeled -

I couldn't get the Raw water impeller out of the housing, I was afraid i was going to tear it up pulling on it with needle nose pliers, and I can't really see it since it's a V-drive and the water pump is facing the stern.

Also I couldn't get the boat to take any Anitfreeze, either through the Intake under the boat; or through the Hose inlet at the Flush valve in the engine compartment. I did realize after I had gone to plan B and Drained everything that the Flush valve's Hose intake had a Ball valve and the little plastic thing was to push the ball down. Is that right? should i have put the small tube inside there to push the ball valve down to let the antifreeze into the system? I ended up almost overheating the boat trying to add antifreeze

AND The Fuel Filter I bought was the wrong kind, Is the Fuel Filter on my boat right there acting as the Plug in the top of the fuel tank where the lines come out??

[Thrall]

Regarding the impeller, they'er tough to get out sometimes. 2 Needle nose pliers, pulling on the splined brass part and rubber body usually works, otherwise, 2 screwdrivers to pry it out. Mars the corner of the housing a little, but not too bad. When you put a new one in, coat the pump shaft good with some anti seize. It will come out a little easier next year.

The hose bib on the flush valve should be upstream of the oneway valve, allowing water to the engine, but not back out the raw water intake.

Don't know about the fuel filter.

[rudaire]

Originally Posted by 5280Hawk

I winterized my 02 X-star last weekend, and two thing that had me baffeled -

I couldn't get the Raw water impeller out of the housing, I was afraid i was going to tear it up pulling on it with needle nose pliers, and I can't really see it since it's a V-drive and the water pump is facing the stern.

Also I couldn't get the boat to take any Anitfreeze, either through the Intake under the boat; or through the Hose inlet at the Flush valve in the engine compartment. I did realize after I had gone to plan B and Drained everything that the Flush valve's Hose intake had a Ball valve and the little plastic thing was to push the ball down. Is that right? should i have put the small tube inside there to push the ball valve down to let the antifreeze into the system? I ended up almost overheating the boat trying to add antifreeze

AND The Fuel Filter I bought was the wrong kind, Is the Fuel Filter on my boat right there acting as the Plug in the top of the fuel tank where the lines come out??

just did mine last weekend. It was a bear to get out. I ended up getting it with two flat blade screwdrivers prying off the housing. Next time I'm going to shell a couple of ball point pens, slide the plastic cover over the screwdriver shaft leaving the screwdriver blade exposed, and that way the plastic from the ballpoint pen won't gouge the pump housing. But I didn't mar mine even without the plastic..

As for the flush valve.. You're not looking at the hose inlet just past the ball valve for the ballast system, are you? That would explain why the motor wasn't taking anything.. Anyway, since you pulled your impeller, or at least drained the housing, you can just pull the larger hose off the thermostat housing and pour antifreeze in there. Even if the engine is cold, it will flow straight into the block, and as long as you've pulled your knock sensor and drain plug (you need to), it will flow right out of the holes in the block and into the bilge.. Don't forget to uncouple the hose from the manifold risers and you're good. From everything I've read, you can skip the antifreeze step.. just make sure you don't have water trapped in the 'j' shaped hose that leads from the thermostat housing to the recirc pump inlet, the hose that you can pour the antifreeze in if you want to fill the block without using the engine to 'pump' it in..

dave

[TMCNo1]

Originally Posted by 5280Hawk

I winterized my 02 X-star last weekend, and two thing that had me baffeled -

I couldn't get the Raw water impeller out of the housing, I was afraid i was going to tear it up pulling on it with needle nose pliers, and I can't really see it since it's a V-drive and the water pump is facing the stern.

Also I couldn't get the boat to take any Anitfreeze, either through the Intake under the boat; or through the Hose inlet at the Flush valve in the engine compartment. I did realize after I had gone to plan B and Drained everything that the Flush valve's Hose intake had a Ball valve and the little plastic thing was to push the ball down. Is that right? should i have put the small tube inside there to push the ball valve down to let the antifreeze into the system? I ended up almost overheating the boat trying to add antifreeze

AND The Fuel Filter I bought was the wrong kind, Is the Fuel Filter on my boat right there acting as the Plug in the top of the fuel tank where the lines come out??

6 times out of 10 your gonna do some damage to the impeller, so it's best to get a new one for next spring and a spare just in case you ever need it if the one your running takes a dump or you meet someone who have had one go bad on the water and doesn't have a spare.

[nmcjr]

Ya, replace it for sure. (same boat) I have not tried all the methods mentioned above, but I spray in soap and then turn it over a couple times. Then, using a mirror lock two needle nose vise grips onto the fins. Then, and this is the key part, I wrap a towel around both vise grips for traction and pull and it comes right out.

[88 PS190]

I've had good luck using two paint can openers, and I use glycerin as a lubricant, which is what they recommend as safe for impeller lubricant (cheap bottle at walmart/walgreens/target)

I also apply quite a bit of glycerin as a dry start preventative in the spring when I install the impeller.

The way I feed my engine antifreeze is to remove the hose that goes from the thru hull to the transmission cooler (if yours has one) then I have a piece of radiator hose that fits, slip that over the transmission cooler, funnel in the hose and feed, I have some one else start it once I have quite a bit into the funnel. Quite simple on a prostar, might need adaptation for your boat.

[Hrkdrivr]

Sometimes "bumping" the starter after you've removed the impeller cover will get the impeller to shift out of the housing a little, which will give you more to grab with needle-nose or regular pliers.

When I do this I pull the kill-switch lanyard so there's no chance the engine will actually fire and start.

[cdstukey]

+1 on the paint can openers, plus they are free in the Home Depot paint department (usually on the counter by the mixer)

[bigmac]

I'm sure the paint can openers work great on a direct drive inboard. For most V-drives, they are unworkable.

[davomaddo]

On a V-Drive, removing the impeller sucks.
I think I will be getting one of these:
http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1244

It is $50 - but it should make the job on a V-drive 100% easier - making it worth it if you plan on having to do this task many years into the future.