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#1
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Water in Oil - Oil is milky.
About 6 weeks ago, I was changing my oil and I was amazed and scared about what drained out of my oil pan. The oil looked liked chocolate milk. So I took the boat to the shop and then filled it up with oil to check the pressure in the heads. Everything checked out fine.
So next they ran is at the shop for 30 minutes. No water. Then they took is out to the lake to run it hard for 30 minutes. Nothing. So they told me to run it and keep an eye on the oil. Sure enough about 4 hours after the oil change and running and skiing behind the boat the milky oil started to return. So I ran it a couple more days because the oil level was not changing. So I looked again and the oil was back to normal, no milkness. So I ran it a couple more hours and checked the oil. The milkness is back and it looks pretty bad now. The oil level is still unchanged. I took off the oil caps where you pour in the oil and I noticed it was milky up there and there were globs of it that looked like grease texture. What do I do next? Any ideas of what to do or what could be wrong. I'm praying the block isn't cracked. Thanks, Mike |
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#2
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There's only two places water gets in the oil. The heads or the block. If you checked the heads, its probably an oil jacket in the block. Real Bummer.
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Bring more Beer
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#3
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What is an oil jacket? Does this mean you think the block is cracked and I would need to replace it? Do you have any ideas on how to find where the leak is?
Thanks, |
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#4
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Quote:
Oil returns from the heads, intake valley and block through oil passages so the oil can return to the oil pan by gravity and cooling water, under pressure is in water jackets circulated in the heads and block by the circulating pump. If there is a crack in the head or block between a oil passage and a water jacket or a blown head gasket, then water can get into the oil. The most accurate way to find the leak, if there is one, is to tear off the intake and heads first, then tear down the engine and have it inspected.
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Charter Member Number 1 Quote: 2RLAKE, At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions. |
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#5
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http://weathersticker.wunderground.c.../Brunswick.gif |
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#6
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Compression and bleed down test both at HOT and COLD Temps
Bad compression is a) Cracked head= b) blown head gasket The only way to properly check the heads is to have them MAGNAFLUXED...and I am not talking "BACK TO THE FUTURE" Drain and change oil In other words check the compression when the motor is totally cool Then run and check it when it is hot. Check for compression and bleed down After compression checks out. Remove intake manifold Remove Heads Clean the block and the head surfaces. R and R head gaskets Put back together Change oil a couple of times and re-check Make sure that you tighten HEAD bolts in order and correct Torque specs Jim@BAWS
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James (Jim) Kranendonk Pres-BAWS
Tampa Bay's Exclusive MasterCraft Dealer www.BAYAREAWATERSPORTS.com (813) 996-BAWS (2297) |
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#7
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Damn, you trying to put JimN out of bidniz!? ![]()
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http://weathersticker.wunderground.c.../Brunswick.gif |
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#8
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Thanks for all you efforts in this post. It's not one I was looking forward to writing. I'll let you guys know what happens. At least football season has started.
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#9
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Only on Sundays Jim@BAWS
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James (Jim) Kranendonk Pres-BAWS
Tampa Bay's Exclusive MasterCraft Dealer www.BAYAREAWATERSPORTS.com (813) 996-BAWS (2297) |
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#10
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Quote:
I'd check the manifolds first before tearing into the motor |
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