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  #41  
Old 08-26-2009, 12:44 PM
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btriantos btriantos is offline
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Boat: 2007 X30, MCX
Location: West coast
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I think it's safe to say we are all a little touched when it comes to our boats.. I think most Malibu owers are the same. It's got to be a pride in ownership, and that we plopped a few bills down and want that investment to last. What I don't get are the "other" boats that are out there. They seems to be a lower percentage of poeple who give a S%^& about their boats, as I see many boats, only a couple years old, pretty thrashed out on the lake
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  #42  
Old 08-26-2009, 02:53 PM
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WAProstar WAProstar is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Boat: 1989 Mastercraft Prostar 190, Indmar 351
Location: Northwest
Posts: 65
I've been doing mostly research on this site...

- Potentially re-plumb the lines to my airguide speedometers to remove the equalizer tubes from the system (per this thread: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...light=airguide). I definitely have a leak or plug somewhere. I am having trouble with the speedos reading different values, the left one is slower to respond than the right and they aren't close to the speed from a GPS (right is about 4-5 mph slow and the left is 8-10 mph slow).

- Trying to troubleshoot why my boat doesn't go faster than 36mph (per GPS). Its an '89 PS 190 with the 351W and a 4-blade OJ prop. I expect something in the 42-44mph range. Seems similar to the issue discussed in this thread (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...stributor+tach), so will inspect my distributor and timing. Don't believe I have a loss of compression in any cylinder due to the very strong pull out of the hole, but will do compression test in the near future to be sure. Need to do more research to see if there are other threads with similar symptoms. This thread has also been very useful: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=11251

- Finding replacement tachometer because mine has corroded and needs to be replaced (it does not register - have verified wiring to the tach).

- Troubleshoot wiring up to bow lights.

I like to have a lot of irons in the fire...
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  #43  
Old 08-26-2009, 04:51 PM
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shepherd shepherd is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2003 Prostar 197 35th Anniversary Edition
Location: South Coast
Posts: 7,340
1. Installed tower, but took it back off because I didn't like the way it looked.
2. Waxed cylinders so pistons will move more freely.
3. Applied fresh coat of paint to starter housing.
4. Removed seat skins and replaced foam padding with thinner, sturdier foam to prevent seam cracking.
5. Coated my boat buddy with strawberry-flavored tingling sensation body lotion.
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2003 Prostar 197 35th Anniversary
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  #44  
Old 08-26-2009, 05:05 PM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WAProstar View Post
I've been doing mostly research on this site...

- Potentially re-plumb the lines to my airguide speedometers to remove the equalizer tubes from the system (per this thread: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...light=airguide). I definitely have a leak or plug somewhere. I am having trouble with the speedos reading different values, the left one is slower to respond than the right and they aren't close to the speed from a GPS (right is about 4-5 mph slow and the left is 8-10 mph slow).

- Trying to troubleshoot why my boat doesn't go faster than 36mph (per GPS). Its an '89 PS 190 with the 351W and a 4-blade OJ prop. I expect something in the 42-44mph range. Seems similar to the issue discussed in this thread (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...stributor+tach), so will inspect my distributor and timing. Don't believe I have a loss of compression in any cylinder due to the very strong pull out of the hole, but will do compression test in the near future to be sure. Need to do more research to see if there are other threads with similar symptoms. This thread has also been very useful: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=11251
Check to see if a/the springs are broke for the distributor timing advance weights and make sure they are lubricated and moving freely.

- Finding replacement tachometer because mine has corroded and needs to be replaced (it does not register - have verified wiring to the tach).
http://www.airguide.com.au/index.php


- Troubleshoot wiring up to bow lights.

I like to have a lot of irons in the fire...

Check the red statements out.
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Quote: 2RLAKE,
At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.




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  #45  
Old 08-26-2009, 05:07 PM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Boat: Gone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd View Post
1. Installed tower, but took it back off because I didn't like the way it looked.
2. Waxed cylinders so pistons will move more freely.
3. Applied fresh coat of paint to starter housing.
4. Removed seat skins and replaced foam padding with thinner, sturdier foam to prevent seam cracking.
5. Coated my boat buddy with strawberry-flavored tingling sensation body lotion.

Yea right, just like I made sure my trailer tongue could lick anything feminine!
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Quote: 2RLAKE,
At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.




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  #46  
Old 08-26-2009, 08:19 PM
PhotoInc PhotoInc is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Boat: 1987 190 Prostar
Location: South East
Posts: 38
I put gas in my 87 Prostar today and skied all morning then came home, tied it up at the dock, and put the cover on it, then walked in my home office and went to work. Since solving my engine and distributor problems, she has been getting used like she should be.....rode hard and put up wet!!

Dave in Odessa...Fl.
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  #47  
Old 08-26-2009, 08:56 PM
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KBryant2007 KBryant2007 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Boat: 2005 Prostar 209 - MCX 350 5.7L V-8
Location: Southeast
Posts: 158
Installed 2 JL Audio Speakers on the tower, and hooked up a 6 channel JL audio amp. Sound is incredible!
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  #48  
Old 08-26-2009, 09:06 PM
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mtajpa mtajpa is online now
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Boat: MC 1999 Maristar 230 sport
Location: Southwest
Posts: 761
Had a new bimini top put on. Looked at it on the trailer and said to my self "Why am I going to work"?
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  #49  
Old 08-26-2009, 11:24 PM
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Wake2wake Wake2wake is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Boat: Mastercraft, X Star, 2000
Location: Kansas City, Mo
Posts: 138
oil change and pulled the old decals off the side, hoping to buff the entire hull tomorrow, and have it waxed and I will replace the decals with something in the off season.
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  #50  
Old 08-27-2009, 12:21 AM
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WAProstar WAProstar is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Boat: 1989 Mastercraft Prostar 190, Indmar 351
Location: Northwest
Posts: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMCNo1 View Post
Check the red statements out.
TMCNo1 - I took apart the distributor. The weights moved ok by hand or with a screwdriver. One of the springs was rusted, but it still pulled the weights into the inner-most position, while allowing it to go out to the outer most position. The other spring looked ok. I lubricated the weights and springs - this seemed to make the movement smoother. However, it doesn't seem like this is the problem since the weights moved ok before I did anything, but won't really know until I get it back onto the water.

In the Do It Yourself Electronic Ignition thread (http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=3533), post 37, somebody mentions lubricating the breaker plate. What is this and does it apply to the non-EI distributor? I put some oil on the packing material/wick, but can't figure out what is being lubricated. The plate that I am aware of it screwed down, so doesn't seem to be able to rotate on the distributor shaft.

Any other ideas on what I should be checking?

Again, I really appreciate the help.
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