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  #401  
Old 03-09-2011, 01:24 PM
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nickespi nickespi is offline
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Boat: 2002 MasterCraft X-30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j4rowell View Post
Installed the Fly High piggy back system, 4 new Wetsounds 6.5 hlcd's and Syn 2 amp, new bimini top, and new 4 port Heatercraft heater.
Niiiiiice! I hope my wife never finds out that you can get a boat with a heater. LOL
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  #402  
Old 03-09-2011, 02:59 PM
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CantRepeat CantRepeat is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
The ones that skidim sells are already setup for the the 351. While using a vacuum gauge is probably the preferred practice for those who know how to use one, I can attest, as someone who wouldn't have a clue how to do that or what to look for if I did, that those carbs from skidim are (or at least seem to be) bolt on, adjust the idle, and go solutions.
It wasn't very far off, but it did make some difference. They are pretty spot on but I think each engine is a little different it never hurts to tune. If you are having part throttle or off idle stumbling you might want to check and set the idle screw mixture.

I did do a high RPM plug test and they do seem to be jetted correctly for the 285/351.

That carb was probably the single best upgrade I did for that boat. No more difficult cold starts, crappy idle, dying or needing to rev it to stay running when cold.
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  #403  
Old 03-09-2011, 03:02 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
It wasn't very far off, but it did make some difference. They are pretty spot on but I think each engine is a little different it never hurts to tune. If you are having part throttle or off idle stumbling you might want to check and set the idle screw mixture.

I did do a high RPM plug test and they do seem to be jetted correctly for the 285/351.

That carb was probably the single best upgrade I did for that boat. No more difficult cold starts, crappy idle, dying or needing to rev it to stay running when cold.
Now that I think about it, I can't remember if I ever adjusted the mixture or not. I know I read up on it, but I think I left well enough alone. Now, I definitely adjusted the idle because it was stumbling at 400 rpm out of the box. Great upgrade for sure. I'm sure with the proper know how, I could have tweaked it to perfection. But, without that know how, the aint broke don't fix it attitude probably served me better.
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  #404  
Old 03-10-2011, 01:21 AM
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ProStar Slalom ProStar Slalom is offline
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Boat: 1984 S&S, 2001 19 Skier
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
Good point. Much easier to do the wrong thing with a carb if you are not well versed in tuning them than the right thing.
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Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
Did you adjust them with a vacuum gauge hooked up?

Can't repeat,

No....vacuum gauge = beyond my tool/skill level. I just bolted on the new carb and gasket, tightened it down without a torque wrench, and it fired right up and ran great. On the water I made a minor idle adjustment to get 600rpm in gear, and that was it.

Nice avatar, by the way--Air Assault!
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  #405  
Old 03-10-2011, 06:58 AM
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CantRepeat CantRepeat is online now
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProStar Slalom View Post
Can't repeat,

No....vacuum gauge = beyond my tool/skill level. I just bolted on the new carb and gasket, tightened it down without a torque wrench, and it fired right up and ran great. On the water I made a minor idle adjustment to get 600rpm in gear, and that was it.

Nice avatar, by the way--Air Assault!

Thanks. 506th and 327th OIF IV 24 year participant.

If you are not having off idle throttle issue then they are probably pretty close.

In a nutshell, You're trying to gain the highest manifold vacuum at operating temp and normal idle speed. Adjust one side a time closing them by half a turn. If the vacuum goes up do the other side a half turn. If vacuum goes down go out a half turn checking each side and always resetting idle if it goes up or down. Both sides should be set to the same setting.
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  #406  
Old 03-10-2011, 09:05 PM
ctjahn ctjahn is offline
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Electrical stuff started coming today

New switches, ign switch, modern fuse panel, and etc arrived today for the 78 S&S. Starting the rewire with the switches....soon. Once that is done, then the fuse box. And finally the wire.
cj
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  #407  
Old 03-10-2011, 09:16 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctjahn View Post
New switches, ign switch, modern fuse panel, and etc arrived today for the 78 S&S. Starting the rewire with the switches....soon. Once that is done, then the fuse box. And finally the wire.
cj
On my To Do list also, just not for a while. What fuse box are you going with, and are you going to relocate to a more convenient location? I spent a lot of time upside down working on mine when I first got the boat.
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  #408  
Old 03-10-2011, 09:59 PM
ctjahn ctjahn is offline
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Fusebox

Well,

Unfortinately I have already rewired three racecars, so I have more experience than I really care to have. The first one was wire by wire due to failures from the prior owner wiring. After that I have done it out of necessity to esure finishes on the other two (Cant win a race on the side of the track plus faulty data acquisition doesnt help either nor blowing a complete digital da$h)

I bought the Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block with the integrated ground block. Electrical switches and such came from West and Advanced Autoparts (of all places - they actually had the brass mometary horn switch I wanted and West didnt.) I still need the wire. Planing on using RC car wire source I used in the past. (very workable; weather resistant, depends on cost for how much I need; basically AV or Military grade)

I do plan on moving it....(Fusebox) just not sure where yet. (Considered putting it between the speedos in the void, with a tinted top but I dont want to drill the dash or put holes in it or mess up the dash look) Thought about a breaker based system instead but thought I would just keep it simple for now. Moving it would allow for the rewire to take place once at a time to ensure its done proper. So, no idea where yet.

Its a good time to do it as I took out the drivers seat to replace the wood and left it out for now because I want to rewire. We will see. May just do the switches now, enjoy the season, and do the wiring next year. I need to do the switches they are flaky.

seeeya.
cj
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  #409  
Old 03-10-2011, 10:06 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctjahn View Post
Well,

Unfortinately I have already rewired three racecars, so I have more experience than I really care to have. The first one was wire by wire due to failures from the prior owner wiring. After that I have done it out of necessity to esure finishes on the other two (Cant win a race on the side of the track plus faulty data acquisition doesnt help either nor blowing a complete digital da$h)

I bought the Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block with the integrated ground block. Electrical switches and such came from West and Advanced Autoparts (of all places - they actually had the brass mometary horn switch I wanted and West didnt.) I still need the wire. Planing on using RC car wire source I used in the past. (very workable; weather resistant, depends on cost for how much I need; basically AV or Military grade)

I do plan on moving it....(Fusebox) just not sure where yet. (Considered putting it between the speedos in the void, with a tinted top but I dont want to drill the dash or put holes in it or mess up the dash look) Thought about a breaker based system instead but thought I would just keep it simple for now. Moving it would allow for the rewire to take place once at a time to ensure its done proper. So, no idea where yet.

Its a good time to do it as I took out the drivers seat to replace the wood and left it out for now because I want to rewire. We will see. May just do the switches now, enjoy the season, and do the wiring next year. I need to do the switches they are flaky.

seeeya.
cj
I was really hoping you had some great innovative idea on where to relocate the fuse box as I am still stumped on where to go with it. Really in an unhandy location from the factory. Haven't had a fuse go while on the water, but it wouldn't be fun.
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Tandem Axle Wheel & Tire Packages Starting at $569
4 Aluminum 14x5.5 wheels, 4 ST205/75R14 tires, mount, balance & delivery.

Single Axle Wheel & Tire Package $319
2 Aluminum 14x5.5 wheels, 2 ST205/75R14 tires, mount, balance & delivery.


CARB REBUILDING - FAST TURN-AROUND - $125 +PARTS
LED lights, Hubs, Spare Tire Carriers, Chrome & Powder Coated Lug Nuts - Red, Blue & Black


PM or email me tiresplease@gmail.com
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  #410  
Old 03-10-2011, 10:34 PM
turbosdad turbosdad is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Boat: 2008 X-2 Born on date of 4-28-08
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Installed fly high piggy back in Xstar. Will try out tomorrow.....
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