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  #1731  
Old 06-28-2012, 11:58 PM
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TXX9 TXX9 is offline
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Boat: 2006, X9, MCX
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Also installed my domed regiatration numbers and waxed the trailer fenders.

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  #1732  
Old 06-29-2012, 12:02 AM
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Boat: 1995 ProStar 190
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The ski rope would sometimes get on the wrong side of the bimini bracket. I didnít want to replace the bimini so Ö built rope sliders so the ski rope slides right back over again. Easy to remove when the bimini goes up. Lake tested, and works pretty well.
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  #1733  
Old 06-29-2012, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
Don't overlook the possibility of a notorious leak from a low end speed where the water rolls up over, where the deck ties into the hull. I have seen many of these old boats leak there.

Consider removing the rub rail, drilling out the rivets, silicone sealing the point of contact between the two pieces, then replace with new rivets and rub rail.

Also shaft packing can leak.

While you're at it, do the thru-bolt repair on the platform brackets to hull (backing plates, etc).

All new exhaust hoses too.


.
Can you elaborate on this a little more, please? TIA
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  #1734  
Old 06-29-2012, 01:28 AM
Scottyyhz Scottyyhz is offline
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Boat: 1979 stars and stripes
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Well, back at work now... But I did Manage to re-seal the swim platform. I will take the exhaust out this week when I get a chance and redo it... Looking forward to getting that floor back in.
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  #1735  
Old 06-29-2012, 07:30 AM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottman View Post
Can you elaborate on this a little more, please? TIA
Your platform is (likely) attached with lag screws. While you have the floor out and accessibility to that area on the transom, place thru-bolts with backing plates to reattach your platform brackets.

I'd also not replace any foam filling in the underfloor / hull area. In addition to that, depending on how the stringers are replaced, I'd either leave a flowpath for water to get to the center section of the underfloor / hull for draining or put a drain plug (right through the hull as a new install) in each sectioned area, if the stringers isolate a water flowpath from the center section for reaching the drain plug. It's an easy installation for several new drain plugs in order to have the ability to drain all sections under the floor. You'll never have a better time to get this right, than now.

$0.02

Below is the last repair of this nature I did on an 85 model. That is a cut-out area of my floor where the platform attaches on the opposite side of the transom. No more lag screws. Solid installation.

.
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..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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Last edited by Cloaked; 06-29-2012 at 07:37 AM.
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  #1736  
Old 06-30-2012, 06:05 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Boat: 1995 Pro Star 205 5.7 Liter
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Didn't go out o I waxed her up...

Going to the world renowned taste of joliet these next two days for Josh Turner and Little Big Town so I stayed in so I would stay awake past 11:00pm...

When I get her to my northern lake I will post some shine...used Meguires Goldclass Carnuba Plus.
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  #1737  
Old 06-30-2012, 06:47 PM
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Boat: 2002 Prostar 197 w/tower
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Wiped it down after a great ski day!
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I'm pursuing my lifelong quest for the perfect, the absolutely driest martini to be found in this or any other world. And I think I may have hit upon the perfect formula :
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  #1738  
Old 06-30-2012, 08:13 PM
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BMDWillyZ BMDWillyZ is offline
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Boat: 2000 Mastercraft Prostar 195, LTR 330 hp
Location: Gang Mills, NY
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Today I made some ropes for docking. I had some 3/8" rope that I had laying around and didn't want it to go to waste. I'm a big DIY person and can't stand paying a ton for something that I can do my self and save some money.
I went to the local Home Depot and noticed that the only items that they have to make a "loops" are metal pieces that you pinch the ropes together.My boats gel coat does not tolerate metal rubbing against it very well. I have herd it yell at me when I have accidently touched metal to her. At this point some of you fancy boat guys would say "why don't you braid the rope back into itself". My father does this and its great but its been a long time since I have done it.
I want to make these ropes and I don't feel like ordering the plastic expensive loop makers that have the pins. Don't get me wrong, those are nice and all but they are not cheap. I though, "What can I cover these with that will work and not look like I put Duck Tape on it". In the electrical world they use "Heat Shrink Tubing" to cover wires where they have conneted them. I looks nice and professional. So I went to the Electrical area in Home Depot and found some large diameter "Heat Shrink Tubing". Here is the result pictures. The total price I paid for the metal clamps and heat shrink tubing was a little over 6 1/2 dollers.

Here is the finished product;


Here are the items from Home Depot;


Here are pictures of the steps to make them;








Use a Heat Gun and this is what you get;
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  #1739  
Old 06-30-2012, 08:30 PM
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psychobilly psychobilly is offline
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Why didn't you just simply splice it?
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  #1740  
Old 06-30-2012, 09:47 PM
vrsc vrsc is offline
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nice job
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