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  #1081  
Old 12-07-2011, 12:10 AM
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Lumbergh Lumbergh is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Boat: 1991 ProStar 190
Location: Seattle
Posts: 754
Like I have said, my boat is new to me. So I am replacing lots of stuff this winter as PM. Maybe its time, maybe not. Most of the parts are really low cost in the big picture.

I like piece of mind on the water. Especially with the family on board.
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  #1082  
Old 12-07-2011, 07:25 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Boat: 1995 Pro Star 205 5.7 Liter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumbergh View Post
Like I have said, my boat is new to me. So I am replacing lots of stuff this winter as PM. Maybe its time, maybe not. Most of the parts are really low cost in the big picture.

I like piece of mind on the water. Especially with the family on board.
I am with you Lumberg, I boat on a river where commercial barge traffic runs all the time... I need to run well so I can get out of trouble or harms way quickly in flowing water. i don't want to be posting and underwater gear pictures on this thread... PM is cheap insurance and its fun working on boats that are new to us. I am from the side of the tracks where I'll never buy a new MC... so I want my pre-skied model to be in almost new condition...

I would love to buy brand spankin new....but that won't happen....next new MC is being purchased by my son...should be in about 5 years from now...tha'ts the plan at least
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...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
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  #1083  
Old 12-07-2011, 04:59 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMann View Post
Is there anyway to tell if you have a collapsed hose without removing them?
did you order 3" hose from Skidim about $17 per foot, how any feet did you need?
Also for the cooling trident hoses, I agree I like the blue. Do they sell molded hoses or did they bend enough for your needs? I have a 91 also if you have part numbers please PM me.
Most of the time a collapsed exhaust hose will sound "different" to some degree. It also will exhibit a soft spot when doing a visual or a hands-on inspection. In my last case, one of my banks was overheating to the touch. Water was going into the one collapsed end and it was not open on the other, thus creating a pocket inside of the hose for hot water to backwash into the riser, restricting waterflow to say (guess) to less than 25 - 50%.

Look on Skidim for the soft-walled hose at $17.99/ foot. Soft hose is much easier to work with and most I have ever replaced had seen service life upwards of 20 + years.

Skidim does not sell the Trident hose. Theire small bore hose comes with a white background and black lettering. The Trident is a bit more attractive, but it's hose on an engine. Like a teal platform. It's a machine. The small bore hose are flexible, nothing molded.

You will not need molded hose for the riser to exhaust hose. Molded hose is for the water pump to the thermostat housing on the Indmar. PCM engines have the straight piece with a j-tube (much nicer) but Indmar was too lazy and short-sided to move the alternator enough to use the j-tube configuration (easy for winterizing). Not enough room to swap over to the PCM configuration (already tried) without moving the alternator (not willing).

If I PM you, then no one else will have that information. You can find the hose here ==> http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MPI200-3000 part number 30505. While you're there, order two riser gaskets, 8 hex head fasteners for the risers, and just remove the risers for ease of installation, then reinstall with new hardware. It's a half day job considering the time to clean the mating surfaces for the new gasket on each. No need to use any sealant on the gaskets. Put anti-seize compound on the hose connections to the riser and the exhaust and they will not stick. I use dish washing soap for a pre-fit for ease of slipping on and off until you get the angle of the cut correct. Soft wall cuts very easy. Don't get carried away with a box knife when fitting.

You'll have to measure the hose before hand. My measurements will not be the same as yours. Again, easy to do... Pull the rear seat, the fuel cell, and the center floor section (which will require the engine cover to come with it). Measure all of the hoses and replace.

While you're there, order two riser drain plugs and replace them as well. Do not... listen to me... do not over tighten. Don't even tighten at all until spring when you get water back in it to tighten ONLY until the leak stops. A 1/2" drive socket ratchet will do the trick.

And while you're there, order new brass drain plugs for the block and get rid of the fancy drain c0ck gadgets.

And while you're there, order the molded hose for the other above described connection (as a spare) unless you have a PCM engine (don't recall which is in a 91).

And truthully, while I was there, I'd replace the rear hoses from exhaust to transom. That's the easy part.

And while you're there with the center floor section out, give the rudder grease zerk a shot of grease.

And for my OCD, I'd also order a new mechanical fuel pump for the Friday afternoon that the pump goes out and you have big plans on Sat and Sun. and all parts places are closed. Auto parts will not have what you're looking for that Sat morning. Been there too many times. I keep a spare. Happens everytime like that. A fuel pump takes about 15 minutes or less to install.
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Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.

Last edited by Cloaked; 12-07-2011 at 05:31 PM.
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  #1084  
Old 12-07-2011, 05:29 PM
Lumbergh's Avatar
Lumbergh Lumbergh is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Boat: 1991 ProStar 190
Location: Seattle
Posts: 754
Since someone asked, I bought the Trident hose at Fisheries Supply in Seattle. They are a large local marine supply. You can buy over the web here:

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/produ...ge=2&did=16015

Parts number 84191 and 84192 for the 1" and 1 1/4" inch.

My PS took 7' of the 1.25" and 3' of 1.0". Very flexible and easy to work with. Razor blade and some wire cutters to clip the embedded wire. I just measured each cut using old hose for length.

Last edited by Lumbergh; 12-07-2011 at 05:31 PM.
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  #1085  
Old 12-07-2011, 05:30 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumbergh View Post
Since someone asked, I bought the Trident hose at Fisheries Supply in Seattle. They are a large local marine supply. You can buy over the web here:

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/produ...ge=2&did=16015

Parts number 84191 and 84192 for the 1" and 1 1/4" inch.

My PS took 7' of the 1.25" and 3' of 1.0". Very flexible and easy to work with. Razor blade and some dykes to clip the embedded wire.
You have the left-handed hose...
__________________
93 190
.
Don't be a boot licker
.

Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.
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  #1086  
Old 12-07-2011, 06:13 PM
thatsmrmastercraft's Avatar
thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is online now
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 15,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
Most of the time a collapsed exhaust hose will sound "different" to some degree. It also will exhibit a soft spot when doing a visual or a hands-on inspection. In my last case, one of my banks was overheating to the touch. Water was going into the one collapsed end and it was not open on the other, thus creating a pocket inside of the hose for hot water to backwash into the riser, restricting waterflow to say (guess) to less than 25 - 50%.

Look on Skidim for the soft-walled hose at $17.99/ foot. Soft hose is much easier to work with and most I have ever replaced had seen service life upwards of 20 + years.

Skidim does not sell the Trident hose. Theire small bore hose comes with a white background and black lettering. The Trident is a bit more attractive, but it's hose on an engine. Like a teal platform. It's a machine. The small bore hose are flexible, nothing molded.

You will not need molded hose for the riser to exhaust hose. Molded hose is for the water pump to the thermostat housing on the Indmar. PCM engines have the straight piece with a j-tube (much nicer) but Indmar was too lazy and short-sided to move the alternator enough to use the j-tube configuration (easy for winterizing). Not enough room to swap over to the PCM configuration (already tried) without moving the alternator (not willing).

If I PM you, then no one else will have that information. You can find the hose here ==> http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MPI200-3000 part number 30505. While you're there, order two riser gaskets, 8 hex head fasteners for the risers, and just remove the risers for ease of installation, then reinstall with new hardware. It's a half day job considering the time to clean the mating surfaces for the new gasket on each. No need to use any sealant on the gaskets. Put anti-seize compound on the hose connections to the riser and the exhaust and they will not stick. I use dish washing soap for a pre-fit for ease of slipping on and off until you get the angle of the cut correct. Soft wall cuts very easy. Don't get carried away with a box knife when fitting.

You'll have to measure the hose before hand. My measurements will not be the same as yours. Again, easy to do... Pull the rear seat, the fuel cell, and the center floor section (which will require the engine cover to come with it). Measure all of the hoses and replace.

While you're there, order two riser drain plugs and replace them as well. Do not... listen to me... do not over tighten. Don't even tighten at all until spring when you get water back in it to tighten ONLY until the leak stops. A 1/2" drive socket ratchet will do the trick.

And while you're there, order new brass drain plugs for the block and get rid of the fancy drain c0ck gadgets.

And while you're there, order the molded hose for the other above described connection (as a spare) unless you have a PCM engine (don't recall which is in a 91).

And truthully, while I was there, I'd replace the rear hoses from exhaust to transom. That's the easy part.

And while you're there with the center floor section out, give the rudder grease zerk a shot of grease.

And for my OCD, I'd also order a new mechanical fuel pump for the Friday afternoon that the pump goes out and you have big plans on Sat and Sun. and all parts places are closed. Auto parts will not have what you're looking for that Sat morning. Been there too many times. I keep a spare. Happens everytime like that. A fuel pump takes about 15 minutes or less to install.
Great post Cloaked. This is one of the many reasons why this forum is such a fantastic place.
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  #1087  
Old 12-07-2011, 09:00 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Boat: 1995 Pro Star 205 5.7 Liter
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uh oh... cloaked will have to post that picture again...lol.
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...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
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  #1088  
Old 12-08-2011, 08:41 PM
GoneBoatN's Avatar
GoneBoatN GoneBoatN is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Boat: 2010 X-15 w/MCX
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 1,823
Replaced the lube in the oil bath hubs. For anyone who wants to know: I have a 2010 trailer for the X-15 with reliable hubs. The set screw used for the drain plug on the oil bath hub is 1/8 NPT (pipe thread). The original one seemed to be brass coated with zinc - not sure about this but it is what it looks like. I goobered one of the original ones getting it out and had to replace it. I now know I need at least one of these in my spares kit along with the cap and o-ring.

Fogged the cylinders through the spark plug holes.
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  #1089  
Old 12-08-2011, 08:55 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Boat: 1995 Pro Star 205 5.7 Liter
Location: Plainfield - Joliet, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneBoatN View Post
Replaced the lube in the oil bath hubs. For anyone who wants to know: I have a 2010 trailer for the X-15 with reliable hubs. The set screw used for the drain plug on the oil bath hub is 1/8 NPT (pipe thread). The original one seemed to be brass coated with zinc - not sure about this but it is what it looks like. I goobered one of the original ones getting it out and had to replace it. I now know I need at least one of these in my spares kit along with the cap and o-ring.

Fogged the cylinders through the spark plug holes.
Love x-15's....
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  #1090  
Old 12-08-2011, 09:07 PM
thatsmrmastercraft's Avatar
thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is online now
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 15,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneBoatN View Post
Replaced the lube in the oil bath hubs. For anyone who wants to know: I have a 2010 trailer for the X-15 with reliable hubs. The set screw used for the drain plug on the oil bath hub is 1/8 NPT (pipe thread). The original one seemed to be brass coated with zinc - not sure about this but it is what it looks like. I goobered one of the original ones getting it out and had to replace it. I now know I need at least one of these in my spares kit along with the cap and o-ring.

Fogged the cylinders through the spark plug holes.
Perhaps we have a language barrier being as far across the country as we are, but wouldn't the correct term be "boogered" as in . . . . . . . . . . I boogered up one of the original ones getting it out

Conversely, one might goober up the end of an exhaust riser with dish soap to help in sliding the hose on.

Just sayin'
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Tandem Axle Wheel & Tire Packages Starting at $569
4 Aluminum 14x5.5 wheels, 4 ST205/75R14 tires, mount, balance & delivery.

Single Axle Wheel & Tire Package $319
2 Aluminum 14x5.5 wheels, 2 ST205/75R14 tires, mount, balance & delivery.


CARB REBUILDING - FAST TURN-AROUND - $125 +PARTS
LED lights, Hubs, Spare Tire Carriers, Chrome & Powder Coated Lug Nuts - Red, Blue & Black


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