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#1061
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Quote:
I have been up in under the bow all evening measuring cable lengths for the battery relo and addition of a second. Got the new partition in place after a little persuasion with a rubber mallet.
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93 190 . Hypocrites, boot lickers, and crybabies…the world is full of them…. just look around - near-by . Duraflap / Kaydenco aren't worth a hoot Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8 . |
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#1062
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hey cloaked...any pics..? I hate the battery in the back... would love to see what you did.
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#1063
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I'll post up when I get the final draft. I had everything in temporarily today to get measurements for cables. I am placing one battery under the passenger seat and the other right in behind the passenger on port side up against the hull. I am trying to leave as much room as possible in there for my crap. I am putting both batteries in vented boxes, and installing an isolation system for a small amp and ahead unit on the auxillary. I tell ya', after doing this, and considering the fact that I am running only a head unit and a small amp for the four cabin speakers, I would likely not worry about the isolation setup. I'd just use two batteries (one crank and on deep-cycle), using the deep battery for tunes and charge it up when I get home (as I do anyway). I'm already too far into it now to change courses (for all practical purposes). Damn cable is a pain for the long runs. I am looking at 2/0 AWG for about a 14' run (starter up through the foot rest, then back around to the crank battery under the passenger seat). Lest forget the ground cable as well. Not my preference but it's the path of least resistance for routing the cables. The other runs are short but still need the same compatible 2/0 for the entire circuit, other than the amp (8 GA) and speakers (12 GA). Also need fuses to install in-line as well (2/0). I have it all laid out in an Excel sheet as far as the paths (point to point and length for each), cable size, and connectors for each end of each cable. Easy enough. A simple install really, just time consuming for me.
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93 190 . Hypocrites, boot lickers, and crybabies…the world is full of them…. just look around - near-by . Duraflap / Kaydenco aren't worth a hoot Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8 . Last edited by Cloaked; 12-04-2011 at 09:33 PM. |
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#1064
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Mike
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#1065
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I dont know what the numbers mean on the white sticker.
Stamped on the side of the assembly is 3950210 Might want to print the pics out and bring them with you to teleflex. T-T
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"Hey baby want to make fourteen dollars the hard way?"--Rondhey Dangerfeild-Caddy Shack. "Was it over when the German's bombed pearl harbor ?" ---Animal house |
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#1066
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I have been in Minnesota all my life and have no desire to live elsewhere. As much as I love summer in my boat, there is so much to do in the other seasons if you are hearty enough to enjoy it. I would never want to give up ice fishing and snowmobiling. Deer hunting in the snow is outstanding. I can deal with the extreme cold much better than the extreme heat. I can always put more clothes on.
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#1067
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I'm with cloaked... I just like summer more now, would need to refit for winter activities, and with this great economy, I have to be picky and I choose summer stuff, wife and I love to travel to Cancun during winter....so no more $$$ for winter activities... like the song goes, my wife and tequila make me crazy... ![]()
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#1068
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Actually, airplanes have props and boats have wheels....
That's why Michigan Wheel is called just that.... Ahhhhhh we could go on for days with this one, about as good as another oil thread. lol And you're right bout that it's math and physics, that's why I posted that link. If you have a read it has some good stuff in there....I'll have a look at your link now. |
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#1069
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. The site that you posted did have some good rule of thumb empirical suggestions, but actual propeller design theory is somewhat more involved as far as the calculations are concerned. |
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#1070
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