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  #1  
Old 01-07-2010, 01:22 PM
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rob935 rob935 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Boat: 1993 prostar 190
Location: ireland
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faded hull

i have a 93 prostar with a green hull which has faded quite badly , just seen some posts recently which mentioned sanding or wet sanding the hull , what is involved in this process and is it effective ??
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  #2  
Old 01-07-2010, 02:50 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: 1998 Maristar 200VRS
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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I restored the finish on my boat last winter. The stern had gotten heavily faded and the dark green was nearly white.

I simply used an circular polisher, some Moderate Gel-coat oxidation remover, a lighter polish, and some good fiberglass protectant, and it shone good as new. Took most of a day to do the whole boat.

I'd give the oxidation remover a try before going at it with sandpaper. There are plenty of good threads on here; search for "oxidation", or perhaps "porter cable".

/frank
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:15 PM
kiteklan kiteklan is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Boat: Mastercraft Prostar 190 1997 ,with steyr 236 HP Diesel
Location: Europa / Turkey South Coast
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We did the same with wet sand paper #3000 (with worn out ones which are used).After that hard paste with hand and soft paste with circular polisher.I will recommend to try first the hard paste on a smalll area if you get good result with that,you may not need #3000.
You should be very carefull not to work to long on one spot otherwise you may worn it out.

Check the result.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=33716

Better to find a friend who is familier with these products otherwise I would do what FrankSchwab recommends and use commercial products.I think there is less risk of destroying the jel coat with those products.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=33716

Last edited by kiteklan; 01-07-2010 at 04:18 PM.
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  #4  
Old 01-17-2010, 07:29 PM
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Wet sanding is usually the last resort. My youngest bought an old SeaDoo that was yellow on bottom. The yellow was horribly faded. I was able to bring it back to life with "Finnesse it III" by 3M at 3500rpms with a sheepskin wheel. One advantage to buffing is that you can do limited buffing one or near stickers. Wet sanding you must mask off the stickers.

I say start with buffing. IF it does not give you the results you want, then try wet sanding. Just remember there is a natural order to things. From wet sanding at the highest grit to successively lower abrasive compounds until you finally get to a very fine polishing compound.

Rotsa wuck.
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