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  #21  
Old 08-15-2009, 12:51 PM
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MariStar-Man MariStar-Man is offline
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impeller and sump pump pics

Is this wher the impeller goes?



There looks like the level of grease and water has water marks at 8" is that ok?



Therre is oil residue in here. is that normal?



This hose on left front of boat is broken. I'm going to repair and figure out a way that shoving stuff in there wont break it again...
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  #22  
Old 08-15-2009, 12:52 PM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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I see you have a V-drive, but the raw water pickup should look like this on the bottom of the boat, very similar,
Attachment 50522
and inside the engine compartment the big black raw water pickup hose from the strainer (upper RH of pic) then goes to the transmission cooler on it's way to the raw water pump on the front of the engine, but your raw water pump is on the front of the engine facing rearward toward the inside of the transom,
Attachment 50527
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Last edited by TMCNo1; 06-17-2010 at 05:01 PM.
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  #23  
Old 08-15-2009, 12:55 PM
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Wink hot water shower? pics

I know I owe you sum goodies for all the question...lol

I guess hot water shower? is there a way to adjust water temp while in driveway?





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  #24  
Old 08-15-2009, 01:04 PM
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No you cannot connect to the yellow connection. That is for draining the exhaust manifolds if you need to winterize your engine.

I cannot see it in your picture, I believe if you look along the left side of the engine (since v-drive engines face backwards) there should be a large hose the goes from the bottom of the hull to the raw water pump on the back of the engine (well it is the front, but again your engine face backwards so it is the "back" in your case).

There are 2 vents for the engine compartment. One is for the blower, which should be used prior to starting the engine and anytime the engine is running with the boat below cruising speed. This will ventilate any fuel vapors and prevent explosions. The second vent is for air flowing through the engine compartment when the boat is underway. The disconnected hose may just be the vent for when the boat is underway. To confirm this make sure the hose on the right is connected to the engine compartment blower (turn the blower on and put your hand over the vents, you should feel air flowing out of one). If no air comes out of either vent when the blower is on then you need to order new blower hose and connect the blower to one of the vents. It is not safe to operate the boat without a properly functioning blower.
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Last edited by Chicago190; 08-15-2009 at 01:07 PM.
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  #25  
Old 08-15-2009, 01:13 PM
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Tower is a nice plus.

Don't worry 'bout the teak. The swim platform on my '00 230VRS was about the same and it came back nicely with a little work and some good teak oil. Plenty of posts on refurbishing them if you search.

The raw-water pickup is under your trailer bunk. I usually wait 'till the back of the boat starts floating a bit at the launch ramp before starting the engine just to be on the safe side. You can't use a fake-lake, but you can install a hose fitting if you really want to run the boat on the trailer.

Guide poles: There are 2 stainless bolts per side that hold 'em to the trailer mount underneath the fiberglass. Use a 1/2- or 9/16-inch wrench (can't remember). Usually the bolts come loose and they just rotate, so check before you go trying to bend them back.
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  #26  
Old 08-15-2009, 01:15 PM
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Yes, the impeller goes in that housing. It is the raw water pump.

The bilge water may be oily because some oil was spilled during an oil change. For example, it is easy to spill oil removing the filter. There is no way to know whether it is caused by accident or if you have a small oil leak. I would go out and buy some sort of bilge cleaner, I got mine on sale from Overton's for $1.99. Give the bilge a good cleaning and see if the oil comes back. Alternatively, you could monitor the oil level of the engine, v-drive unit, and transmission to make sure none are leaking. However, you'll want to clean the bilge out anyway, unless you enjoy dumping polluted water into the places you boat and swim.
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  #27  
Old 08-15-2009, 03:02 PM
Age Fighter Age Fighter is offline
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Awww -- when I saw hot water shower pics -- I was thinking something totally different
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  #28  
Old 08-15-2009, 03:41 PM
McDye McDye is offline
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yep it is a hot/cold shower. The hot comes from water circulating thru the block and the cold is fresh water (so what ever water temp is the is ur cold). Adjusting temp is just home controls. There is typically another pump that basically pulls the water off the above mention connections.
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  #29  
Old 08-15-2009, 04:21 PM
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The easiest 2 places are in the raw water pickup hose under/near the oil filter or right near the pickup in the floor.

I installed a raw water strainer near the oil filter location since it had the most room. My local Mastercraft dealership put an in-line garden hose fitting about 18-inches or so upstream from the hull pickup point. To get to it I just remove my center seat cushion and pull the fiberglass bin out and there it is.

If you've got a West Marine nearby they'll have the garden hose fitting. Just check the diameter of your raw water hose before you go. Should say right on the hose in blue or white lettering. I've got the LTR engine like yours. I think it's 1.25-inch, but I did it last year and my memory is fuzzy.
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  #30  
Old 08-15-2009, 04:44 PM
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I made my own version of a "fake a lake" with a plunger and a clamped on connection that attaches to my garden hose. It has worked for me for the last 2 or 3 years without problem. Cost me about $5.00 total. It is a quick, cheap alternative.
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