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  #241  
Old 08-18-2009, 08:51 AM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariStar-Man View Post
My dad bought me this:



But I'm having trouble finding WEt SAnd Sand Paper that fits on it. Harbor Freight has the right sze bot they are not we t sand...

Heres the link to Harbor Freight

You probably won't find Wet-R-Dry sandpaper to use on a electric power tool. Something about water and electricity don't mix. Wet-R-Dry is designed to use by hand or a block sander, but today body shops use up to 1500 or finer dry sandpaper discs on DA sanders that have a velcro type attachment feature for finishing and prep sanding prior to washdown, priming and painting.
Just use the power tool dry before you start any hand wet sanding if this is for the teak platform to get the wood down to clean new looking material.
3M makes the system along with others, I adapted it to a sanding disc for a cordless drill. It has the velcro weave side on a sponge base and the dry paper attaches to it, 320, 600 and 1500 shown and can be found at any auto paint supply facility,
Attachment 50642
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Last edited by TMCNo1; 06-17-2010 at 04:01 PM.
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  #242  
Old 08-18-2009, 09:09 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariStar-Man View Post
My dad bought me this:



But I'm having trouble finding WEt SAnd Sand Paper that fits on it. Harbor Freight has the right sze bot they are not we t sand...

Heres the link to Harbor Freight
What are you going to sand? If you're going to sand the hull, be careful with any kind of sanding pad that has points or edges that are somewhat straight- it can leave a line. Round pads on a random orbital sander work best but if you're careful, this one does work well. I have one and mostly use it for cutting but if you practice on something, you'll be able to sand without leaving ridges. I like it and it's not $400 like the full Fein kit.
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  #243  
Old 08-18-2009, 09:12 AM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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Originally Posted by MariStar-Man View Post
Thanks Frank. i found a plug at the MC store for 6 bucks. Now I have to find the safety cable that goes from trailer to tow vehicle...
Contact these people, Unique Function Products, http://www.ufpnet.com/ and they can direct you to the replacement parts.See below for owners manual for the actuator on maintenance, assembly, disassembly, brake bleeding, check list and instructions on how to replace the cable and or cable clips for the actuator.

OK, I had a brain fart!
Here is the PDF file link for the A-60 UFP Disc brake Actuator brochure, http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/Actuators.PDF
and
Here is the PDF link for the A-60 UFP Disc brake Actuator maintenance booklet that has exploded views of the parts and part #'s and all the info you can use, http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs...aintenance.pdf
Print it off and you have a owners manual!


Also, get a couple extra cable clips just in case you accidentally destroy one and don't have a spare.
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At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.





Last edited by TMCNo1; 08-18-2009 at 10:12 AM.
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  #244  
Old 08-18-2009, 10:01 AM
Maristar210 Maristar210 is offline
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I have a boat cover that I bought for my 2004 but I have a 2005 tower. I think it will fit your '99 - My mistake could be your luck if you are interested make me an offer.
I even put 303 fabric protector on it, now it's just sitting in the attic....
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  #245  
Old 08-18-2009, 10:19 AM
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Hoosier Bob Hoosier Bob is offline
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Here is a nice link to Waymires.com

They have a ton of parts and I have completely rebuilt my trailer usung their parts. Very reasonably priced. The key is a pain. They have and I am sire others have a locking resevoir cap that works well also. The part number is 34359U

Search UFP Products on the Adobe file and you will see the locking res cap as well as the actuator.
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Last edited by Hoosier Bob; 08-18-2009 at 10:22 AM.
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  #246  
Old 08-18-2009, 10:19 AM
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rholmes rholmes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgrove View Post
OK, I'm baffled... Exactly why does one polish their prop or rudder?
Well, if all you were looking at was my shaft, then it would be a humiliating day. I have to make... ahem... your gaze fall elsewhere.
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  #247  
Old 08-18-2009, 10:21 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariStar-Man View Post
You're right! I should have brought the prop to the sandpaper...
It's a legitimate question. Running surfaces are pretty sensitive. If they weren't, most of us wouldn't be shelling out the bucks for CNC machined props. Glad it shined up for you. If you notice any vibration in the drive train, maybe just hit the other side with a hammer to balance it out. I'm all for boats looking their best, but not at the expense of performance. That's why I asked.

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Last edited by east tx skier; 08-18-2009 at 10:50 AM.
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  #248  
Old 08-18-2009, 10:23 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMCNo1 View Post
I'm even more baffled, why would anyone not want to polish their underwater gear?


By any chance, do you have a $3000 set of wheels and tires on your car/truck that you never clean, wax, polish or apply protectant?
Harold, do you sand yours. Or do you just use some sort of ss polish (I know you don't have brass anymore).
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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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  #249  
Old 08-18-2009, 10:30 AM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
Harold, do you sand yours. Or do you just use some sort of ss polish (I know you don't have brass anymore).

Not since they were originally polished. The fins and strut are still bronze and just need the occasional hand and cordless drill Powerball polish to bring back.
I just use the following with a sponge applicator and dry terry towel, as a matter of fact, I haven't polished anything since right before CSM '07.
Attachment 50647Attachment 50644Attachment 50645
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Quote: 2RLAKE,
At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.





Last edited by TMCNo1; 06-17-2010 at 04:01 PM.
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  #250  
Old 08-18-2009, 10:37 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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You're too fast for me. As you've often requested, I used this thing called a search engine (which I apparently set up) and found your recommendation for Tarnite.



I've got a new tunable rudder on its way for my old tug. So I figured I'd polish up the old one so I could sell it. Used rudders that haven't had logs or boulders applied to them are not exactly the easiest things to come by I've discovered.
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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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