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  #11  
Old 07-31-2009, 09:03 PM
gibbons
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I said I'm a mechanical engineer, not a software engineer Heck, if I can post, am I not signed up? What else do I do?

I just spent an hour taking pictures, adding text, and re-sizing them. They are ready to post as soon as I am "signed up". I promise, someone here, if they will listen, will be elated with the changes.

A few notes:

flya750- if your boat is a '97, it probably as (better have) the cooling system changes incorporated from the factory. Hence, no cooling problems.

Also, to show that I am a tinkerer who comes up with goofball stuff that works, here is a link to a Volvo XC70 (AWD station wagons) forum where I defined how to easily change "good for life" automatic transmission fluid. The forum moderator thought it was good enough to put in a permanant "sticky" at the top of the forum http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12169
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  #12  
Old 07-31-2009, 09:13 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbons View Post
I said I'm a mechanical engineer, not a software engineer Heck, if I can post, am I not signed up? What else do I do?
If you're an ME and you can't navigate here, you either still use a slide rule or just don't think computers are going to catch on.

I posted a link but I don't have your personal info so,.....

Remember, the head of IBM asked why anyone would want a personal computer, in1959 and in 1899, the head of the US patent office said "Everything that can be invented, has been".
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  #13  
Old 07-31-2009, 09:14 PM
gibbons
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JimN- Yup, moving the bleeders from the rears of the heads (where they work on cars) to the fronts of the heads. MasterCraft, Indmar, and GM Powertrain all missed that. I guess it's like you can't proof read your own documents effectively, it was obvious to me. It wasn't rocket science, but I caught it. The Service Bulleting was MC96-001, I have a copy that Nathan sent me when it came out. I will post the pics so everyone can check their LT-1's as soon as I am official.
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  #14  
Old 07-31-2009, 09:15 PM
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SkiDog SkiDog is offline
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Go up to the top right corner of the page , and find the 'log in - register' tab, click on it and follow the directions. Should be cut & dried.
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  #15  
Old 07-31-2009, 09:19 PM
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Where were you when they still offered that motor and why didn't you look for this forum?

Seriously, I don't remember seeing very many with repeated overheating issues, mainly because they had either been fixed before I started or because MC/Indmar had already made the changes. If you are/were in Colorado, he did mention going out there for some high altitude testing, but they were doing that anyway. Seeing as it has been 11 years since I went the first time, I'm going to say that I don't remember every detail of every day in class, but I do remember most of it.
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  #16  
Old 07-31-2009, 09:22 PM
gibbons
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I did that... that box is currently showing "Logged in" in green. If I wouldn't have registered as "gibbons", I couldn't have posted. It required all my personal info, etc. Is there a daily batch update that needs to come up before I show up as a member to everyone else?
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  #17  
Old 07-31-2009, 09:27 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by gibbons View Post
JimN- Yup, moving the bleeders from the rears of the heads (where they work on cars) to the fronts of the heads. MasterCraft, Indmar, and GM Powertrain all missed that. I guess it's like you can't proof read your own documents effectively, it was obvious to me. It wasn't rocket science, but I caught it. The Service Bulleting was MC96-001, I have a copy that Nathan sent me when it came out. I will post the pics so everyone can check their LT-1's as soon as I am official.
OK, but the motor in the boats is at a different angle, too and that would make a big difference. The cars have a bleeder screw on the highest point of the cooling system and the boats can't have that luxury.

Stinkin' gravity!

Since that was the first bulletin of '96 (we had a binder with all of them), you probably came up with it in the middle of '95, right? I can't see them going out and acquiring data for normal performance in extremely cold weather, regardless of whether a few people were still boating. Cool, but not extremely cold but I know they could have done a custom program. Setting the fuel tables in extremely hot weather doesn't work well, either. There was one year Alan was pressured by someone (I don't remember if it was Indmar or MC) but they wanted the programs before they were ready and it resulted in cold start issues. Late '98, I think.
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  #18  
Old 07-31-2009, 09:30 PM
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I have heard that once in awhile someone registers and it doesn't click all the way in. The new member can see he is logged in but for some reason, the posts still show up as "guest". Hopefully a moderator can check it out for you.....

And yes, I have an LT1 and know that it's reverse cooling and aluminum heads. I also would like to see what you have available. I'm also a Civil Engineer.
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Last edited by Ski-me; 07-31-2009 at 09:32 PM.
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  #19  
Old 08-01-2009, 12:38 AM
gibbons
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OK, I will assume I am "in" and see if I can get pics to post. Attached (hopefully) is page 1 of the service bulletin. I messed around with the overheating during 95, got it zeroed in and submitted to MC in early 96.

In a car application, there is a tube that connects to a port on the rear of each head with big "banjo bolts". The tube hooks up to the cooling system to purge any bubbles that may get in the head. Once the bubbles in a car are gone, they're gone since it's a closed system. In the boat application, GM Powertrain and Indmar didn't think that one through, they left the tube on the back of the heads. Since the motor is at a large angle, and even larger when the boat is on plane, there is no way that bubbles can exit efficiently. They naturally float upwards and can fill the heads so water can't circulate. At higher RPMS, they can get scavenged out, but at lower speeds like wakeboarding, they can fill the heads. When that happens, there is no water cooling, and things get too hot really quickly. The bubbles get sucked into the cooling system through the hull intake when crossing frothy water, bouncing over rollers, etc. Heat soak can create bubbles when the engine temp goes over 212, so you can fill the heads with steam air when the motor is first turned off. Remember, car systems are pressurized up to 16psi and have antifreeze, which raises the coolant boiling point, so they don't have this problem.

The heads are symetric, they can be installed on either side of the engine. So they have port holes on the fronts and backs. The fronts, the best place to purge bubbles, have pipe plugs in them. I thought the rear porting was useless, so I removed the plugs and tube and swapped them front-to-back. The tube doesn't fit the front because of the water pump, so I spent quite a bit of time hand bending it to fit. But it can be done. The service bulletin page 2 has a list of threaded bushings, elbows, barbs, etc to pick up at a hardware store to do the job, but that would look cobby. They should have just said to bite the bullet and carefully bend the tube. Once the tube is hooked up to the front, take it to one of the exhaust manifolds like it was when in the back.

To make sure I wasn't introducing any bubbles into the system, I fabricated a bubble catcher from a soldered copper Tee, cap, and brass nipple. It installs before the thermostat housing. Any water entering into housing has to pass by, and the bubbles will rise into the cap and get purged into the other exhaust manifold. MasterCraft didn't see the need for that extra piece, but I did just for piece of mind.

After I did this, I never had another temperature spike with the accompanying RPM reduction. My temperature has been rock steady at 170 degrees. That's the topic of another post upcoming in this thread.
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  #20  
Old 08-01-2009, 12:49 AM
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mbpd312 mbpd312 is offline
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I give up!!
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