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Old 03-14-2014, 11:29 PM
Fastshivy Fastshivy is offline
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5.7 Intake manifold water leak 2x

I just put a brand new 5.7 Vortech engine in my 2004 x9. The engine froze (ice) and ruined the block. When I first cranked it up I noticed a small water leak at the back of the engine (cyl 7). I immediately shut it down and checked for water in oil yep it was there. I pulled the intake manifold (Aluminum 8bolt TB Indmar) back off put on another set of new gaskets changed oil and same problem just not as bad.

All gaskets looked good, not warped, pinched etc. I used rtv under the edges where the ends meet the block and ran a bead on front and back surfaces of the block where there are no gaskets. I torqued the manifold (11FT LBS)in 3 steps following the correct bolt pattern, all surfaces look good. had valve covers and all hardware out of the way to get a straight shot at it and it went on fine. Gaskets are victor reinz... looked high quality and came with the engine.

I am very experienced with automotive engines mostly foreign....this has me stumped
I am at a loss here....warped manifold?? internal crack? Never dealt with a frozen motor as I am from Florida what did I miss? Ideas thanks
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Old 03-15-2014, 12:21 AM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Do a compression check and inspect the 7 plug for water in cylinder.

7 is on the back corner of the block and that water port could be seeping but I would want to know compression first. Eliminate bent valves because water in the cylinder is no fun.

Surely we have a good head gasket but the compression test will tell us a lot. If we have good compression then I would try another shot of removing the intake.

Was the leak between the intake and head, intake and block, or head gasket?
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Old 03-15-2014, 12:33 AM
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Rossterman Rossterman is offline
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New or rebuilt? Sometimes when decking block or surfacing heads the manifold has to be machined to seal correctly.
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:34 AM
Fastshivy Fastshivy is offline
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I would say the leak was between the intake and head you see it right where the head, back of block, and intake all meet right in that area where you are suppose use a little extra rtv. The engine is brand new from GM marine not a reman.

I will check compression could you please explain how bent valves would cause a leak. I am not real familiar with water circulating thru the exhaust manifolds....which are new as well ....both were cracked.

I have been running it on the trailer at the boat dock with both exhaust submerged due to angle of ramp. That would not cause any kind of funky back pressure issues would it? I have to go to work today so will post when I can thanks for info!
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Old 03-15-2014, 09:58 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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11 ft-lb seems light. I would check for the torque specs from another source and this link shows 22 ft-lb-

http://www.mrwrench.com/1995199850-57.html

What about the bolt pattern- did you start in the middle and work outward when you tightened the bolts?
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastshivy View Post
I will check compression could you please explain how bent valves would cause a leak

Bent valves will not cause the leak. The leak could cause bent valves. If water is getting over to the intake runner of 7 and sucked into the cylinder it will not compress like air. So water intrusion or getting into the cylinder could very easily cause a bent valve. Remember you can only see what is happening on the outside and have no clue what is going on inside or under the intake.


Agree w Jim. Seems like you need to tighten the intake bolts.
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Old 03-15-2014, 12:02 PM
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Here's some info as to tricks to ensure a good seal. Others have had problems with this so make sure you buy best felpro gaskets they make and possibly use some suggestions from this link. I've built a few leaving out the front and rear seals myself and they worked fine. On the ones I built, there were holes drilled in the block to keep the RTV from moving. I think chevy began drilling them like this back in the 70's but not sure if they still do.

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/191645/

Last edited by Rossterman; 03-15-2014 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:10 PM
Fastshivy Fastshivy is offline
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Thanks for info. Compression was good 160psi on all 8. No evidence of water in the cylinders but " 7 and 8 plugs had a rich running appearance esp 8. I followed the procedure for a 98 5.7 vortech truck with upper and lower manifolds, it dawned on me these were probably low torque applications for composite manifolds and not designed for the aluminum manifolds. So how do I verify the torque on the indmar manifold? Yes I did work out from the center ty

I was also under the assumption that you did not want to use rtv on the new improved gaskets as they have neoprene sealing surfaces.

Would you still use the rtv on the neoprene surfaces? sounds ok to me the gaskets look identical to originals and rtv was used on front and back of block but not on gasket surfaces. Oil and filters are starting to get expensive plus who knows what beating the bearings are taking.

Thanks again never had this problem, but then all the chevy sb's I worked on were cast iron Intake manifolds thanks
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:17 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Exclamation

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Originally Posted by Fastshivy View Post
Thanks for info. Compression was good 160psi on all 8. No evidence of water in the cylinders but " 7 and 8 plugs had a rich running appearance esp 8. I followed the procedure for a 98 5.7 vortech truck with upper and lower manifolds, it dawned on me these were probably low torque applications for composite manifolds and not designed for the aluminum manifolds. So how do I verify the torque on the indmar manifold? Yes I did work out from the center ty

I was also under the assumption that you did not want to use rtv on the new improved gaskets as they have neoprene sealing surfaces.

Would you still use the rtv on the neoprene surfaces? sounds ok to me the gaskets look identical to originals and rtv was used on front and back of block but not on gasket surfaces. Oil and filters are starting to get expensive plus who knows what beating the bearings are taking.

Thanks again never had this problem, but then all the chevy sb's I worked on were cast iron Intake manifolds thanks
No sealant in the gaskets, only on the bare metal at the ends.

Do the intake manifold bolts insert at a right angle to the head's mating surface, or are the vertical WRT the plane across the top of the heads?
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:23 PM
Fastshivy Fastshivy is offline
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the bolts are vertical no right angles and the gasket bolt holes are ringed with metal and give you plenty of clearance. There are 2 dowels on each gasket that fit snug in the head to keep the gasket aligned correctly.
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