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Old 04-14-2009, 09:33 AM
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mpabreo mpabreo is offline
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Break-in Procedure

I'm sure the manual has outline the proper engine break-in procedure, but can you guys share your thoughts on if its enough, not enough, personal experiences. Should I just follow the manual?
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:50 AM
Witness140 Witness140 is offline
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Indmar has a brief break-in guide.

Limit RPM to under 2000 for the 1st hr, 3000 until the 2nd.

Vary the rpm. Do not load or lug, etc.

The boat will have about 20 minutes on it already from the water test at the factory. I do not know what they do down there.

I would have to advise....if you want full control over your investment from day 1 - don't let anyone start or run that boat at the dealership unless you are there. A lot of opinions and dismissals regarding the importance of proper breakin. If you want your views exercised, you'll have to be present.
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:53 AM
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VOLFAN VOLFAN is offline
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Follow the manual...Always CYA

page 39
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Old 04-14-2009, 01:16 PM
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I spent a summer working for Skiers Choice, I was able to take a ride on a lake test once. Their factory water test went something like this.

First step was a startup in a pool at the factory. Checked oil pressure, idle speed, excessive shaft seal leaks, etc. Next, at the lake it is taken straight out up to 3000 rpm, set speedos. Full throttle, check top end, next hard right (while maintaining full throttle) do a couple of spins. Straight back to top speed, hard left, a couple more spins. Maintain full throttle and do 3-4 figure eights.

Back to idle, check a few other things around the engine, idle turning, and other items.

Then, a few more laps at 3/4 throttle and back to the dock. Whole process took about 15-20 minutes and was a whole lot of fun!

I can admit that I have no idea what MC does but I cannot imagine that they are much nicer on the engine.

I am sure that this is one of those topics that some people are adamant about on both sides but I just cannot imagine a good reason why it matters too much to follow these break-in procedures. If someone has one I would be interested in hearing it.
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Old 04-14-2009, 01:21 PM
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I would guess proper break in=CYA if something goes wrong.. I would follow it word for word..
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Old 04-14-2009, 01:21 PM
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Old 04-14-2009, 01:40 PM
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Follow the manual for the first 10 hours. Pretty much if anything goes wrong within the 1st 10 hours the dealer/manufacturer can plug in and say "Looks like you have 9.2 hours at WOT and .8 hours at idle... we are not going to cover you". Just follow what is recommended and move on!
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:07 PM
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Ole Miss Rebels Ole Miss Rebels is offline
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i have an L18 in my 08 xstar. i had an mcx in my 05 xstar. i was very, very careful and diligent during the break-in period. i was told by my dealership/mechanic that the berak-in period is crucial to getting longevity out of your engine. i played it by the book and then some. i was told that the L18 is bad about using oil and that the break-in period is what determines whether or not it will be an oil user. alos, during the break-in period your engine will probably use a little oil. take a couple of quarts and a funnel in the boat with you and check it regularly. they all use oil during the first 20 or so hours. i am not sure whether it burns it or if some just blows by but they will use oil and you want to keep it full. also, change the oil as per the reccomendations. don't change it too quickly however as i was told that they put a thinner, break-in oil intothe engine at the factory.

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Old 04-14-2009, 02:40 PM
scramison scramison is offline
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Its not quite like the motor oil debate. I think there are more definite truths when it comes to breakin. Another important thing especially with boats is to vary the rpms during the break in process.

here is another good link:

A short summary of the below article:
Main point is to heat cycle the parts. You want the parts to heat and cool. Secondly you need to seat the rings so no synthetic oil for 5k miles or so.
You need to get to the top of the RPM band gradually. I think it has been mentioned here but you want to do short bursts to the top of the RPM at DIFFERENT engine loads.
Best way to break in an engine, IMO, is to hit the canyons with some common sense.

Here is an amsoil guide that talks about bikes but it is the same concept:

Breaking in an engine, by the very definition, is to "wear" the parts so they mate to one another better. Putting synthetic oil in a new engine will not allow that engine to break in properly and will glaze the cylinder walls. That is why most good engine builders recommend that you don't use Synthetic until the parts have had a chance to mate, seat, wear in, polish or what ever you want to call it.
The info below is from AMSOIL who manufacturer synthetic oil. Even they recommend not using synthetic to break in an engine. Since the Viper and Corvette is mentioned in a previous post, so does this...

Converting to AMSOIL and Breaking in a New Engine using synthetic oil. Critical Information You Need to Know.

Brought to you by Detroit, Michigan Truck and Automotive Engineers and Lubrication Specialists. We have 22 years experience engineering cars and trucks right here in the heart of the car and truck engineering and manufacturing capital of the world and we will put our extensive knowledge to use for you.

We are also longstanding Professional Grade members of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). This prestigious position is ONLY granted to degreed engineers with documented work experience in the automotive engineering industry.

We have packed this website with useful information that will help you to make an informed decision regarding your choice of lubrication and filtration products for your vehicles and equipment.

Some of the most frequent questions people ask us about AMSOIL are, what is required in order to convert to AMSOIL, how long do I have to wait before installing AMSOIL in a new engine, and what can I expect to notice once converted to AMSOIL?. Here are our answers in a detailed explanation:

Converting a vehicle to AMSOIL synthetic oil is fairly simple, but there are a few things you need to be aware of. First, if you have a brand new vehicle we recommend that you run a short cycle of petroleum oil on a gas engine passenger car or light truck (typically 500 miles or up to the first scheduled oil change) and approximately 5000 miles on a diesel engine in such as a Ford Powerstroke or Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesel before installing AMSOIL. This doesn't mean that you can't install AMSOIL sooner, as many OEM's install synthetics as a factory fill (such as the Dodge Viper and Chevrolet Corvette), it simply means these are our recommendations based on our extensive engineering studies and knowledge of this topic. Today's modern engine manufacturing and materials technology is much more sophisticated than in years past. Regular gas engine passenger cars and light truck engines do not require the extensive break in process many people think they do. In addition, by the time you get your new vehicle the engine has already been through a series of hot tests also run on in-plant chassis rolls testers to check functionality of all systems and then driven around the plant and railhead in order to get the vehicle to the dealer, which also helps accelerate breaking in of the engine.

The engine break-in issue is the subject of much controversy as everyone seems to have their opinion on when an engine is considered fully broken in. The information we provide is based on the results of engineering studies as well as many years of experience and teardown analysis on test vehicles. The differences between a vehicle that was properly and fully broken in and one that was not can often be hard to detect, yet there are tell-tale signs of this but they are not easily detected except in all but the most extreme situations. The subject of what occurs during the break-in process can easily be the subject of a 100 page report therefore what we cover in this website page is only the essential points you need to know.

Breaking in an engine is a process of properly wearing-in the pistons/cylinders/rings, bearings, valves, camshaft, lifters, rockers, etc... In addition, part of the breaking in process is not only wearing-in and seating the internal engine components but also stress relieving the components as well. Crankshafts, connecting rods, pistons, blocks etc... have many stresses due to the casting or forging process, machining and welding process. We have viewed and measured these stresses, called fringes, using what is called lazer holography. These stresses are properly reduced/eliminated by costly and time consuming heat aging as well as shot peening and or high frequency vibration on a very specialized bedplate for an extended period of time. For production applications this is cost and time prohibitive. Therefore, the next best thing is exposing your engine to multiple heating and cooling cycles under various load and RPM's, which is described in the following paragraph. The heating and cooling break in process continues over a period of time and does not need to be run on petroleum oil.

Breaking in a new engine is the one area that petroleum oil is better for than synthetics. You see, petroleum oil has a very low film strength which is ideal for breaking in a new engine. That is why we recommend you run the factory installed petroleum oil for about the about the first 500 miles or up to the first scheduled oil change. Then drain the oil, remove the factory installed oil filter and then install AMSOIL Synthetic motor oil and an AMSOIL Super Duty oil filter and your ready to go.

Further heat cycling break-in will continue during the multiple heating and cooling cycles from driving your vehicle under varying RPM and engine load conditions and then shutting it down for a long period of time to let it cool completely. The multiple heating and cooling cycles are a extremely important factor in properly breaking in a new engine and are often an overlooked factor in the total break-in process. These heating and cooling cycles achieve what is called stress relieving. Back in the "old days" of engine manufacturing, after casting and before an engine block was machined, it would be set outside for several months to age, during which stress relieving occurred naturally, then the block was machined, which helped to produce a better engine than one that was machined immediately after casting.
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:00 PM
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CottagerGreg CottagerGreg is online now
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I say drive it like normal without ballast

Those break in procedures were created years ago before machining tolerances where soo close and the rings had to mate to cyl walls.

Don't abuse but drive normal and everything will be good.

I've seen hundreds of race motors build with "quick" break-ins on the dyno before seeing 80 psi of boost running meth and 800-1200whp+ out of a 4 cly.

I think I might actually change over to AMS oil in my X-star since a close friend of mine is a dealer and he'll give me oil at cost!
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