Prop Reinstall Directions

[pagelk]

Installing prop. When I bought my ’03 X2, the prop was slightly bent (not really noticeable last summer) however, I put in the contract that the dealer would rebuild the prop for me. Due to when I bought the boat (mid-summer), I didn’t want to wait the few weeks for the rebuild right away and decided to hold it off till winter. I had the service shop who did the winterization take off the prop, however, I was going to have my buddy reinstall it this weekend since I’m out of town. So, I was looking for detailed directions on how to reinstall the prop…the more detailed the better. He wants to take it out this weekend after the reinstall, and I don’t want to get a call from him stuck in 60’ of water cause the prop fell off! Thanks

[bainez23]

what i got from my local service shop was tighten it to 50 ft pounds put the cotter pin back

[Cloaked]

Originally Posted by bainez23

what i got from my local service shop was tighten it to 50 ft pounds put the cotter pin back

That's a lot of torque. I'd snug it up nicely with an extra 1/4 turn or so. Fifty ft-lbs is a heavy hand.

[Laurel_Lake_Skier]

If you have a tapered propshaft, great info here.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum...TID=12866&PN=1

[airdrew99]

I would definitely put anti-seize on the shaft where the hub sits. This will aid in removing it next time. I used it on my prop and also my raw water pump impeller. I was suprised how much it help on my impeller.

[coz]

Originally Posted by Laurel_Lake_Skier

If you have a tapered propshaft, great info here.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum...TID=12866&PN=1

There's not a TT thread? or are you trying to sabotage his boat?

[ncsone]

I would grease the drive shaft and prop hub. Install, then tighten to 50 ft-lbs. I believe my 05 owners manual calls for 50 ft-lbs.

[Chicago190]

Originally Posted by airdrew99

I would definitely put anti-seize on the shaft where the hub sits. This will aid in removing it next time. I used it on my prop and also my raw water pump impeller. I was suprised how much it help on my impeller.

The link above says specifically not to use anti-seize on the shaft if you have a tapered shaft (i.e. keyed shaft).

[bturner2]

The 03 X2 has a splined shaft (or at least the one I just sold did). The simple method we've used for years which never failed was to put a very light coating of marine grease on the shaft, hold one of the blades with one hand (block it against the hull if you have to) and tighten the nut with a standard 1/2" drive socket wrench. We've always used the German torque spec "good 'n' tight" and never had any issues. Use a new stainless steel cotter key each time if possible.

Where I've seen people get into trouble is when they block the prop against the hull and use a breaker bar or both hands to tighten the nut like a mad man. I'm sure there are more detailed procedures and specifications but this has worked for us for 20 plus years on both taper and spline shafts without failure. I seriously doubt any of us have used a torque wrench while changing the prop in the water at the lake.

[TMCNo1]

Originally Posted by bturner2

The 03 X2 has a splined shaft (or at least the one I just sold did). The simple method we've used for years which never failed was to put a very light coating of marine grease on the shaft, hold one of the blades with one hand (block it against the hull if you have to) and tighten the nut with a standard 1/2" drive socket wrench. We've always used the German torque spec "good 'n' tight" and never had any issues. Use a new stainless steel cotter key each time if possible.

Where I've seen people get into trouble is when they block the prop against the hull and use a breaker bar or both hands to tighten the nut like a mad man. I'm sure there are more detailed procedures and specifications but this has worked for us for 20 plus years on both taper and spline shafts without failure. I seriously doubt any of us have used a torque wrench while changing the prop in the water at the lake.

I agree, and do the same thing with my tapered shaft. Even if the prop nut is torqued or good-n-tight, the pressure of the prop pushing forward on the shaft in forward gear most of the time, the prop will tighten itself up more on the shaft. It's always good to check the prop nut for tightness after a couple outings just for the giggles of it.