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Old 03-14-2009, 09:41 PM
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finished my stereo upgrade

I got my stereo install pretty much all done today. I'm really happy with it.

I added a Wet Sounds Syn 6, a pair of Pro 80's and their WS420.

I'm running 600W to a 10in Image Dynamics IDQv3 D2
200W to each of the Pro 80's and then 100W to each of my Clarion inboats (replacing in a couple weeks with Polk MM6501's). So, 1400W RMS right now.

I still have a little bit of clean up and wire wrap to do, but I called it a day. I must have crawled in and out of that storage compartment a 100 times.





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Old 03-15-2009, 01:49 AM
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Nice Job on the install!
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Old 03-15-2009, 02:01 AM
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Another nice job on the install brucemac! You're getting pretty handy with this stuff. Is that an I-pod hook up in your cup holder? Is that going to take out quite a bit of legroom for the driver?
Great work.
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Old 03-15-2009, 10:22 AM
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thanks. yeah, ipod directly into 420 with charging. lost a little legroom, but the pic is a little deceiving because of the angle of that walk-thru piece. i'm 6ft and have plenty of room. that sub was installed by a shop last year, but i re-amped it. it's ported 1.25 cubic feet, so fairly large.
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Old 03-15-2009, 10:24 AM
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Bruce, I'd love a more detailed explanation of your box under the helm, to include dimensions. I'm inclined to do something there.
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Old 03-15-2009, 10:48 AM
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brian, i had the sub installed last year by a local shop along with a couple amps. what you see there is actually somewhat of a false wall. more specifically it's a false "L". it's carpeted and actually attaches to the sub box. they built the box to manufacturer's recommendation using 3/4in material and then fiberglass resin coated it. it's 1.25 cubic foot net and has a 13in long flared 3in port. i believe the total box is about 1.41 cubic foot gross. they moved my stargazer over to the starboard wall, i believe left the ecm and fuse panel alone then screwed the box down to the floor with l-brackets. then they measured and cut a piece to fit over it and contour to the starboard wall. glassed it, carpeted it and attached with speaker grill, port grill cloth and heater vent. only thing i wish is that i had matching carpet. it's close, but not exact. the sub by the way sounds terrific. i listen to all kinds of music and it has not disappointed yet. i of course will have to remove it if/when my heater core fails, but 4 screws on the false wall, two lag screws on the box brackets and it's out. fwiw, i used to be a fan of sealed boxes due to size, but you just get so much bang for your buck with a ported box and can get a lot more output from a ported enclosure versus sealed with same amp if done correctly. hope this helps.
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Old 03-15-2009, 11:32 AM
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Bruce,

Thx for the summation. I thought maybe you did it yourself? Any thought to adding an extra cockpit speaker on that facia?

How do you like your 420? Do you think it was worth the $349? How did you mount it under the dash?

Did you add a second battery? If so, did you use Diesel's method with the BW relay, or some other means?

I've got some work to do on mine. I picked up an additional set of tower speakers (Kickers) to compliment my MB Quartz. Plus, I have the 4 clarion cockpit speakers, which I'd like to eventually replace, and a marine sub. Currently, I have a decent Clarion marine amp running my tower speakers and sub and a precision power amp running my cockpit speakers. I think I'm going to pick up a 5 channel kicker amp to run my tower speakers and sub, and shift the clarion amp to run my cockpit speakers. Of course, I need some method (420 or the RCA fader) to prevent blowing out the folks in the boat when cranking the tower. Additionally, I need to pull more wire for my tower speakers. Currently, I just have it wired for 2 speakers. I'm going to buy some wire with 2 pairs in the sheathing and pull it back through using the current wire. Lastly, I need to add a battery and some type of relay, isolator, etc.
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Old 03-15-2009, 12:46 PM
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brian, with the help of a friend, we ripped everything out on the port side and started over. i replaced my sub amp with the syn6 6-channel for my sub and tower speakers. he helped me wire everything and test fit the amps and wire disti. i did the rest over the course of the last couple weeks when i could find the time.

speaker on facia? you mean the sub face/side? no room and i'm not incined to cut my walk-thru if that's where you mean. inboats sound great as is with 100W a piece and will i'm sure sound even better when i get those MM6501's. 4 interiors are plenty for my boat.

i added a second battery last year. i had the yandina C100 on my last boat and it worked great. this time around however i went with the Surepower 1314 battery seperator. it works great. it's a voltage sensing seperator, but doesn't have any voltage drops found with some of the other simple solenoid design isolators. it will combine and seperate and super easy to install. it has optional aux start which is a battery combined surge for starting should your start battery be low. also has a terminal for dummy light to see when this action is being performed. i ditched the manual battery switch too. no need for it. the 1314 will combine batteries to aid in starting IF the start bat is below 11.5 (i think that's what it is) and only IF the aux battery is above 11. it seperates bats when start is below 11.8 and combines when above and/or under charge.

http://www.surepower.com/pdf/separatorinterconnect.pdf

i really like the WS420. yes i think it's worth it for those with tower speakers--especially those with 4 tower speakers, or those with HLCD tower speakers like the Wetsounds, NVS, etc. having two-zone eq functionality is really nice too as well as the obvious fade control from inboats to towers. you could certainly do it for less. the clarion EQS746 is online for like $60. doesn't give you two zone eq, but does give you sub control with tower speakers only (WS420 sub is tied to inboats although it has freq/gain control). you could also use the pac audio LC1's or Peripheral PRC1's, for fade control, but you'd end up running at least one or two pair of RCA's around the bow anyway, so why not just go for it. oh and the kids like the mic. only other thing i'd say about the 420 is that it's imperative to ground everything to the same common ground. you can't tie the 420 ground into anything in your dash, you need to run it around and tie into all the other grounds for amps, hu, relay, etc. if you don't, you could end up with some noise.

oh and if you're replacing your current wire with 4-conductor instead of adding, that shouldn't be too bad at all. tie it up and pull the new stuff through. getting down into my compartment without removing the tower was a bugger and i only ran 2 pair of 14 gauge. the tower was gravy. good luck and post up when you get done and let us know how it goes! looking forward to seeing sodar's install, i know he's getting ready to do his.
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:45 PM
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Bruce,

Thx for the reply.

Sorry about the delayed response I've been on the road.

I appreciate your comments on all of that. All of your suggestions sound great. That said, I'm not looking to break the bank. I've already got the second set of tower speakers and the Kicker amp. I need to purchase batterie(s) (unfortunately, I have two buy two to ensure they are equal--what batteries are you running?), some type of fader, an isolator and speaker wire. It all adds up.
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:59 PM
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Bruce,

How and with what did you mount the 420 under the dash? Looks very clean.
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