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#1
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Tandem Trailer Brake issue '04 Surge Disc
Rig: 2004 210VRS under a tandem axle with Titan Surge brakes (Aero-6000) with electric reverse brake release (solenoid that allows the brake fluid to return to the master cylinder if it senses 12volts e.g. reverse lights).
Took the '04 210 out today and had a new issue with the trailer brakes (I think I have the same issue as many do with pulling and backing an empty trailer, "brake induced hop", but this is different). My issue is that the rear axle brakes, yep both sides, spent a lot of time braking on the trip home (about 7 miles) with the boat onboard. I could feel it in the engine, etc. I get home and the rear wheels are hot as Hades. I start with the fundamentals and check out the AERO-6000. I found three issues: 1. A small stainless bolt at the most forward attach point for trailer wiring harness was causing some interference with forward dampner assembly. Not a big issue, travel restricted about 1/4" and not a cause of this problem, but I remedied it. 2. Ground point (for trailer wiring and of course the reverse lights) on the same bolt was very loose. Remedied, but not the smoking gun. 3. Smoking gun? The coupler assembly would move back to easily compared to last year. Brake fluid was okay and besides, the brakes were working (just too darn much). So I removed the rear grove pin that the rear of the dampner attaches to. When I tested the dampner, there was NO resistance whatsoever for much of its length. So I ran it back and forth a few times and whatever the issue was, the dampner resumed its job. Now lots of resistance, this is good (but I will get a new one). So here is my theory (and I sure would appreciate anyone's thoughts, because I've got a 4 hour drive to and from the dealer in two weeks for the steering cable replacement/recall)... Normally when you pull a trailer, the dynamics between the trailer and the tow vehicle are not in concert with each other. The two are almost constantly pushing and pulling against each other in a never ending cycle while you drive. With surge brakes that can be an issue. If the two are pushing against each other (in an off and on cycle), the brakes are being intermittantly activated. It appears that the dampner would be an important piece to the solution. In my case, the first thing I had noticed when we headed for the lake was that I wasn't getting the typical "snap" from the AERO-6000 when I pulled away from a stop sign. I had my son watch as I did some quick starts and stops and what he described was almost no resistance. Other questions: 1. Is a new dampner preloaded to always be pushing out or simply stay where it was last? 2. Do the rear brakes activate before the front axle brakes? I am going to talk to Titan tomorrow, but wanted to see what some of you folks might think of. I am also going to look into a couple of items mentioned in another thread (smaller oring orifice #650680) and adding a 1/2" .125 washer to spring assempbly for a bit more preload. Cheers, J.R. |
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#2
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I have the same trailer (except single axle) under my 04 Prostar 197. My trailer had a brake not releasing on one side so, with the help of a friend, removed the pads and notice the caliper was sticking and not releasing back open. I have a 3 hour drive to my dealer so to be safe I think I will completely remove the assembly from the wheel and wire it to the axle so I don't get stranded on the interstate. Not a difficult process if you know a little about brakes or know someone who does. We removed the brake line then pushed on the tongue and could get brake fluid to move so we decided it has to be the caliper itself sticking in the engaged position thus making the pads ride on the rotor and making them hot. I could smell my brake and could then spit on them and the rotor would sizzle. Hopefully my dealer will resolve the issue. It's boating season you know!! Best of luck to you, but should NOT be a major issue.
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Todd197
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#3
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jrbrown,
I just repaired my coupler yesterday. I replaced the damper with a new one. It is not always extended. It stays where it was last until forced to move in either direction. Like Todd said, I'd check for a caliper that doesn't release. I had one that would stick also. |
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#4
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Personally I think the disk brakes suck! I installed a switch so I could manually send power to the reverse lock out. My tralier would bounce like a buckin bronco when I would head down a hill empty. Very embarressing
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#5
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yee haw!!!!!!
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Last edited by milkmania; 05-01-2005 at 10:58 PM. |
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#6
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Quote:
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If one day you're asked: " How did you spend your time here on Earth?" Will you say: "I kept a crabgrass free lawn" It's time to SKI.
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#7
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I'll check all four calipers over the next few days. Lots of brake experience but my first adventure with trailer brakes. I suspect that they are as simple as 240 Volvos rear brakes. One line in, retainer clips, etc.
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#8
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Had a good phone call with Titan regarding the AERO-6000 surge brakes. They will replace the dampner. I searching for the cause of the rear brakes, in addition to checking the calipers he said to check the line before the "T" off to the rear brakes to see if there is a kink in the line from road damage. An excellent idea which i will do.
J.R. |
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#9
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J.R. you memtioned that you were not getting the typical "snap" when you pulled away from a stop sign. I have been trying to determine if that is the expected behavor or not. Did Titan by chance provide any insight on this?
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#10
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Quote:
it ain't a pretty sight, or sound, as the trailer is bounceing up and down and the locked up tires are leaving skid marks on the ramp. I would rather have the back-up lights lit as I'm going down the hill vs the alternative ![]() |
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