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  #1  
Old 05-01-2005, 09:30 AM
Gerald Carson
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Help with dashboard switch problem

Hi,
I know very little about boat wiring, but I got a problem that I was wondering if I could fix. I've got a 2001 19skier that started off with an intermittent problem with the dashboard switches about a year ago and now it is a continual problem. When they used to go out, they would all go out at one time or they would all turn back on at one time. From left to right, affected items are the DC power plug, the horn, acc 1 switch, acc 2 switch, blower switch, bilge switch, and nav light switch. My ignition switch is not affected (or it would have been fixed a year ago). I've pushed on the dashboard breakers under the switches and they don't do anything.
I was wondeing if some one could point me in the right direction of what to look for or do to try to fix this.
Thanks,
Gerald Carson
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  #2  
Old 05-01-2005, 09:57 AM
Ty 73 Ty 73 is offline
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You might check your ground. I was having intermittant (sic?) cutouts on my dash switches and it turned out to be a bad ground connection.
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  #3  
Old 05-01-2005, 10:01 AM
Ty 73 Ty 73 is offline
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Oh yeah, my ground wire is bolted directly to the engine block....black wire located on the rear driver's side. Hope this helps.
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  #4  
Old 05-01-2005, 10:17 AM
Gerald Carson
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Ground

Thanks much, I'll give that a shot.
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  #5  
Old 05-01-2005, 10:47 AM
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whitedog whitedog is offline
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Also check the grounding block, there may be one on the engine or it may be under the dash. It will be a place where the main ground connects to a wiring block, all the switches, except ignition, will be connected to this.
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  #6  
Old 05-09-2005, 09:46 PM
Gerald Carson
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Found the problem

Hi guys,
I cleaned the ground at the engine block and then cleaned the ground posts at the ground bar under the dash but that didn't fix the problem. I then went to clean the battery posts again and noticed that there is a small amp that runs off the smaller power wire of the battery. I cleaned the amp and still nothing. Then I by-passed the amp and all the gauges then worked. So obviously I have a bad amp. Until I get a new one, does anybody know if it would hurt anything to by-pass this amp and connect directly to the battery?
Thanks for all the help,
Gerry
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  #7  
Old 05-09-2005, 10:39 PM
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sfitzgerald351 sfitzgerald351 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald Carson
Hi guys,
I cleaned the ground at the engine block and then cleaned the ground posts at the ground bar under the dash but that didn't fix the problem. I then went to clean the battery posts again and noticed that there is a small amp that runs off the smaller power wire of the battery. I cleaned the amp and still nothing. Then I by-passed the amp and all the gauges then worked. So obviously I have a bad amp. Until I get a new one, does anybody know if it would hurt anything to by-pass this amp and connect directly to the battery?
Thanks for all the help,
Gerry
A small 'amp'? Can you post a picture? I have no idea what this might be. Anybody else have a clue?
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1984 Stars & Stripes w/454
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  #8  
Old 05-09-2005, 11:17 PM
Holtrodj Holtrodj is offline
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Do you mean a fuse? They may have "AMP" written on them.
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  #9  
Old 05-09-2005, 11:44 PM
Bongo Bongo is offline
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Yea, I think you are talking about an in-line fuse. I don't recall this on my MasterCraft, but my pontoon boat has this set-up. The primary, heavy gauge (thicker) wire is used for the starting circuit and a lighter gauge (thinner) wire is used for all other electrical equipment (e.g. gauges, horn, lights, etc.).

Right at the battery, both the positive (red) and negative (black) terminals each have two wires. The smaller gauge red wire has an in-line fuse at this point. The in-line fuse is encased in a white plastic tube; about the same diameter and slightly shorter than a cigarette. Once this same wire gets to the gauge cluster, it is connected to a distribution block and each set has their own additional fuse.

My pontoon had intermittent problems last year. When I did my spring maintenance, I tracked it back to this in-line fuse. Cleaned the connections. Applied a small dab of grease. Bent one end of the connection slightly to provide more pressure to the fuse. Now it works as it should.

Also, make sure this fuse isn't burnt out. There is a thin metal strip or wire from one side to the other. If this is split, you need to replace the fuse. If it keeps burning out this fuse, you've got a bigger electrical load than the fuse was designed to support; not sure if a problem, or you've added additional gear.

As to your question about by-passing this in-line fuse, it depends upon whether or not you've got additional fuses down the line. In my view, it is probably as easy to fix or replace the in-line fuse as it is to by-pass the fuse.

Good luck.

Bongo
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  #10  
Old 05-10-2005, 01:03 AM
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erkoehler erkoehler is offline
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I wouldn't run it without the fuse. It is to risky if there is another problem. It is always the 2.00 fix that you put off that creates the 2,000.00 fix
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