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  #371  
Old 08-15-2013, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by oumiller28 View Post
Just got back from the lake. Spent more time driving my car than the boat. (
So my boat starts... long cranks or on the 2nd or 3rd try.
Pressure stayed steady at 59 from start up to 2000rpm to wide open.
However, the check engine light came on.
I just drove the boat for about 20 min so I could make sure the fuel pressure was steady and it was.
I stopped and started a few times then put it back on the trailer.
So my boat starts, but not really and check engine flashes the whole time the engine is running. I looked to see if there was any code and there was none.
Weird though... when the boat would start it took about 5-8 seconds for the check engine to chime up.

So now what do I do?

JimN I am counting on you.
The check engine light goes on and doesn't flash, or you just see it flashing at a constant rate? You can't use a paper clip on your engine- it's not OBD I. You could use an OBD II scanner, though. Autozone, O'Reilley's and other parts stores loan them.

Are you close to any MC dealer? Call and ask if they have a diagnostic computer & someone who knows how to use it.
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  #372  
Old 08-15-2013, 03:28 PM
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oumiller28 oumiller28 is offline
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Thanks Jim.
I have just decided to pull my boat up (South but up the Grapevine) the hill to At the Helm Marine. They are the closest to me. Its just under a 2 hour drive depending on traffic.
The check engine light/buzzer would come on after the boat was running for 5-10 seconds. What is strange to me is that every time I turned the boat off and back on the light/buzzer would not be automatically on (last time the check engine light/buzzer came on it would flash/sound as soon as I turned the key to the start position), this time the boat would be running for a bit then it would sound off. As for the indicator it flashes and scrolls across the screen at a steady rate.

My fuel pressure stayed at a constant 59 PSI. The mechanic said that sounded a bit high to him but with in the operating range? Anyway, I plan on bringing out another thousand.
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  #373  
Old 08-15-2013, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by oumiller28 View Post
Thanks Jim.
I have just decided to pull my boat up (South but up the Grapevine) the hill to At the Helm Marine. They are the closest to me. Its just under a 2 hour drive depending on traffic.
The check engine light/buzzer would come on after the boat was running for 5-10 seconds. What is strange to me is that every time I turned the boat off and back on the light/buzzer would not be automatically on (last time the check engine light/buzzer came on it would flash/sound as soon as I turned the key to the start position), this time the boat would be running for a bit then it would sound off. As for the indicator it flashes and scrolls across the screen at a steady rate.

My fuel pressure stayed at a constant 59 PSI. The mechanic said that sounded a bit high to him but with in the operating range? Anyway, I plan on bringing out another thousand.
"Sounded high"? Is this a MC dealer, are they authorized by MC or Indmar? This is an Indmar engine, right? If it is and you're close to Corona, call Indmar them and ask if they can help- they have a place there (or, they did, but I haven't heard if they still do).

Do you have a small sender next to the oil filter that has one or two wires on it? This would be right next to it. If it does, it's probably an oil pressure sender and might be clogged. Remove it and see if the little hole has gunk in it. If it does, soak it in gas and clear it out, then try it. Read your manual and see if it mentions an oil pressure alarm.
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  #374  
Old 08-15-2013, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
The check engine light goes on and doesn't flash, or you just see it flashing at a constant rate? You can't use a paper clip on your engine- it's not OBD I. You could use an OBD II scanner, though. Autozone, O'Reilley's and other parts stores loan them.

Are you close to any MC dealer? Call and ask if they have a diagnostic computer & someone who knows how to use it.

Hey Jim,

The OBD II and the CAN connectors are not the same and you cannot read codes from MEFI 5 ECMs without a CAN.

Normal automotive OBD II



CAN connector.



Left to right:

Perfect pass adapter for CAN connector(used to hook to mefi 5 ecms when the boat has a PP), MEFI 1-4 diacom DLC connector, CAN adapter, Diacom cable.



OP, You'll need a DIACOM system to pull codes on your boat.
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  #375  
Old 08-15-2013, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
Hey Jim,

The OBD II and the CAN connectors are not the same and you cannot read codes from MEFI 5 ECMs without a CAN.

OP, You'll need a DIACOM system to pull codes on your boat.
Shows what I know about diagnostics on the newer boats.

I'd probably know this if those buttmunches hadn't taken over the dealership.
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  #376  
Old 08-19-2013, 06:22 PM
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oumiller28 oumiller28 is offline
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So I was just told that at start up my fuel pump comes on real quick and then shuts off, this is what is causing the long start ups. Anyone know what would be causing the pump to shut off at start up?
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  #377  
Old 08-19-2013, 06:44 PM
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So I was just told that at start up my fuel pump comes on real quick and then shuts off, this is what is causing the long start ups. Anyone know what would be causing the pump to shut off at start up?
You mean, after cranking? It's supposed to prime for 3 seconds after turning the key to ON, but not cranking. This is actually a good way to start the first time if the boat has been sitting. Crank it after the priming sequence and see if it starts more easily.


If it's shutting off after the engine starts, look at the relay for the pump and make sure the contacts aren't scorched. If one of them isn't making ogod connection, use a small flat screwdriver to bend the terminal closed, so it grabs the tab on the relay better.
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  #378  
Old 08-19-2013, 06:55 PM
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At key up pump comes on pressure goes up to 59psi... pump stops, then the pressure drops off to 0 almost immediatly.
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  #379  
Old 08-19-2013, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by oumiller28 View Post
At key up pump comes on pressure goes up to 59psi... pump stops, then the pressure drops off to 0 almost immediatly.
I would like to get an idea of the flow rate- if you have a fuel pressure gauge, maybe you could attach the hose to the Shrader valve and put the other end into a gallon jug. If it has a quick disconnect for separating the gauge from the hose, you'll need a male fitting (the kind that goes on an air tool, to connect it to the air line), so the gas won't be stopped by the female fitting. Crank it for ten seconds and measure the amount of gas that goes into the jug. You should have a second person there, to hold the hose in the jug and keep it from splashing. Post the results. If the rate of flow visibly decreases over that time, I would look for the specs that apply to that pump's part number.
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  #380  
Old 08-19-2013, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by oumiller28 View Post
At key up pump comes on pressure goes up to 59psi... pump stops, then the pressure drops off to 0 almost immediatly.
Almost all of hard cranking problems after fuel pump replacement(that i read here and experienced once) is cause by a leaking hose inside the tank.
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