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  #361  
Old 08-11-2013, 01:13 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skitilldark View Post
My situation is a weird one. I think somehow the wiring harness back there caused at least one if not two of the failures. The first pump failed at around 100 hours. I took that one apart and found a kink(the same one everyone has referred too earlier). The others were harder to determine the failure cause. Every single year I've owned the boat(13), the boat stops running at some point, so I go back and pull the rear ski locker floor up, jiggle the harness lines and it fires right up. The dealer has replaced the plugs back there so often, I should just open a store. Because of that, I'm pretty sure electronics somehow caused the failures. But there are MUCH smarter people than me weighing in on this thread—listen to them...
There's a known issue with the plug- go to a car parts store and take your old pump with you, so you can get the right pigtail. You'll want to solder the wires and use self-sealing heat shrink tubing- this is definitely a critical connection and just crimping a couple of butt splices on is the crap way to do it. If plugs and connectors fail frequently, it's usually because they're not sized correctly, the connection wasn't made correctly, it's not a good/snug connection or a ground is bad/loose.

If you have to jiggle wires to get it to work, whoever has been servicing it should have been doing the same thing in order to do their job right. No, I'm not being "nice" about this, but it's because I had to do it as my job and being a professional repair shop implies a certain amount of ability, knowledge and integrity- if they can't find the cause of a problem, they need to suck it up and admit it or call someone in who CAN fix it. Or, they could just hire someone with lots of 12VDC electrical experience and send them to MC training.

The one thing I saw as a problem for the people I met at MC training was lack of electrical training/expertise. Some of us, having done car audio/security, military electronics, etc had an easier time because we had dealt with some of the same issues all day, every day- we just worked with different parts.

This is a Packard connector (I think) and it's not MC's fault- cars and trucks have the same problem.

Last edited by JimN; 08-11-2013 at 01:25 PM.
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  #362  
Old 08-11-2013, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by oumiller28 View Post
Hey JimN, I can't tell you and the OP how much help your input has been for me. I am so thankful for TT and how everyone is so helpful.
Just two questions remain:

1. What pressures should I get at the 4 stages you mentioned?
2. Is it true that the only place to get a new/replacement filter is to order it from MC?

Oh, I almost forgot... I was told its a good idea to add fuel stabilizer every time I add fuel. I add the stabilizer after my thanksgiving day session (last run of the year), but not every time. Should I be adding the stabilizer every time?

Time to hit the lake for a water test. I will have pressure measurements for you Jim.
I don't have the specs for your year, but in '01, when I stopped working on these, it was 60 pounds with almost no variation. If it dipped significantly, the pump or regulator/vacuum were suspected.

If you go through a lot of fuel, it's not as important to use stabilizer but it's not a bad idea. There is a possibility that you could end up with too much, so only add the amount that applies to what you add, not the total in the tank. If the gas sits, you always use gas with ethanol or you take the gas to the boat in gas cans, I would recommend taking a fuel sample at least once every month to see what's in the gas.
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  #363  
Old 08-11-2013, 01:36 PM
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agua4fun agua4fun is offline
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Yep had the connector fail on me as well. I bent the pins for better contact, but in the end it wouldnt hold correctly. I found it locally for $19 and soldered it in, then found out mastercraft sold the complete harness for $16, but it did take almost two weeks to get from my dealer.

Pix of both below for ref.
The box was for the connector with 6" pigtail only BWD PT302
The coils is the mastercraft harness 508436

The harness looks longer because the ground wire is now seperate.
Oh, this is for my 2001 ps190 with ltr, but i believe this is the same connector for most if not all mc pumps.
Dave
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  #364  
Old 08-12-2013, 12:22 AM
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oumiller28 oumiller28 is offline
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Just got back from the lake. Spent more time driving my car than the boat. (
So my boat starts... long cranks or on the 2nd or 3rd try.
Pressure stayed steady at 59 from start up to 2000rpm to wide open.
However, the check engine light came on.
I just drove the boat for about 20 min so I could make sure the fuel pressure was steady and it was.
I stopped and started a few times then put it back on the trailer.
So my boat starts, but not really and check engine flashes the whole time the engine is running. I looked to see if there was any code and there was none.
Weird though... when the boat would start it took about 5-8 seconds for the check engine to chime up.

So now what do I do?

JimN I am counting on you.
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  #365  
Old 08-12-2013, 12:56 AM
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sand2snow22 sand2snow22 is offline
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No codes? Did you plug it in with Diacomm?
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  #366  
Old 08-12-2013, 05:39 AM
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oumiller28 oumiller28 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sand2snow22 View Post
No codes? Did you plug it in with Diacomm?
No... wrong choice of words. No sequence in how the check engine light flashed. Sorry for the confusion.
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  #367  
Old 08-15-2013, 12:29 AM
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sand2snow22 sand2snow22 is offline
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We've probably done 20 fuel pumps this year. We've had a few airtex's come back. Our concern is some of the aritex's are only providing 30-40 PSI. We are going to try Carter p74122 from here on out. Getting 60 PSI. See how it goes..
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  #368  
Old 08-15-2013, 12:48 PM
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oumiller28 oumiller28 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oumiller28 View Post
Just got back from the lake. Spent more time driving my car than the boat. (
So my boat starts... long cranks or on the 2nd or 3rd try.
Pressure stayed steady at 59 from start up to 2000rpm to wide open.
However, the check engine light came on.
I just drove the boat for about 20 min so I could make sure the fuel pressure was steady and it was.
I stopped and started a few times then put it back on the trailer.
So my boat starts, but not really and check engine flashes the whole time the engine is running. I looked to see if there was any code and there was none.
Weird though... when the boat would start it took about 5-8 seconds for the check engine to chime up.

So now what do I do?


JimN I am counting on you.

Bueller... Bueller... Bueller...
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  #369  
Old 08-15-2013, 01:22 PM
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CantRepeat CantRepeat is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oumiller28 View Post
Just got back from the lake. Spent more time driving my car than the boat. (
So my boat starts... long cranks or on the 2nd or 3rd try.
Pressure stayed steady at 59 from start up to 2000rpm to wide open.
However, the check engine light came on.
I just drove the boat for about 20 min so I could make sure the fuel pressure was steady and it was.
I stopped and started a few times then put it back on the trailer.
So my boat starts, but not really and check engine flashes the whole time the engine is running. I looked to see if there was any code and there was none.
Weird though... when the boat would start it took about 5-8 seconds for the check engine to chime up.

So now what do I do?

JimN I am counting on you.
Do you have a scanner for it? It's going to be pretty hard for anyone, even Jim, to point you in a direction with scanning for codes when you have a check engine light.
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  #370  
Old 08-15-2013, 01:39 PM
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oumiller28 oumiller28 is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft, X-Star, 2007,
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Yeah... I felt like I was SOL when that light came on.
I will be taking my boat to see Fred with "At the helm marine" in Castaic/Santa Clarita. I believe that they are the closest MC maintenance shop to Bakersfield.
I guess it's another case of B.O.A.T....
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